Yours included, right ? If anyone is changing synthetic every 5000 miles, they're wasting money. Synthetic Oil Life Study

The critical time with a flat tappet cam is break-in. Many cam manufacturers have either a break-in oil they recommend or an additive that must be used during cam break-in. Once the cam is broken in, there's really not anything to worry about. We break-in our flat tappet race engines with synthetic and a ZDDP additive and don't have any issues with cam wear. The zinc/phosphorus does provide the necessary lubricity for cam break-in, but it causes catalytic converters to fail over time.

NAPA and CarQuest brand filters are re-labeled Wix filters.

 

Wow, fantastic response and a great link too! Thanks. As I've stated before, Coast Guard aircraft use mobil 1 synthetic. I've driven hundreds of thousands of miles using mobil 1 super syn and have never had any issues of any kind and I actually change my filters at the 6000 mile point and then top off as needed which is more stringent than the lab test.

If anyone wants to crawl under thier vehicle every 3000-4000 miles or pay someone in equal intervals then have at it. Your wasting your time and money. But hey, peace of mind is priceless.

Tim

Tim

 

I did not know that. I guess i wont use Fram filters anymore though, just from what people have said. I will do some research when i have more time

 

Peace of mind and preventive maint! Change oil often is cheaper in surance then a new motor later on down the road plug it will last longer generally speaking.


The more exspensive fram filters are ok and they dotn have cardboard in them either. However the run on the mill fram filters are complete crap.

 

I always used the better quality stuff, I dont really know if I am wasting my money and I dont really care, cause nothing has broken down yet, and as one guy said, you cant put a price on peace of mind.

 

I had a older Ranger that had some oil leaks, when I changed to the high mileage castrol the leaks seemed to just about quit.........Maybe some additive to swell seals in it?.

How about switching from conventional oil to synthetic? anything to look out for on a truck that has run its whole life on conventional oil?.

 

zinc acts as a cushon between the camshaft and the lifters mainly but also cushons all of the bearings and metal on metal moving parts in the engine, the old GM EOS has the perfect amount of zinc to break in a flat tappet cam when added to any oil but the new stuff is junk because of the government regulations, now you can only get a good amount of zinc in your oil if you buy racing oil (pricy cause it says racing) or if you buy diesil oil for tractor trailers or oil for farm equipment (we have a farm so we buy that)

if you try breaking in a new cam and lifter set with regular oil and no additives chances are pretty good the cam will wipe a lobe or two off before your done breaking it in and if not in the first 1,000 miles

 

leakage from around the seals. The sysn cleans areas where the conven doesn't so you might get a few leaks due to different chems and what not but thats about it. You might not get any but I would expect it.

 

what kind of spring pressures are you running i have had the problem with really high spring pressures (around 400lbs open) with solid lifter cams that you need to keep running zinc or it will wipe the cam

 

Off the top of my head I'm thinking in the 600 lb range at full lift, but we're also using a tool steel for the cam material, which is probably much harder than most street cams and would resist wear a lot better. The stock cam in my truck seems to be holding up fine with normal 10W30 at 185000 miles, though, so I dunno...

 

lol i doubt you have 400lbs open spring pressure on your stock cam in your truck but yeah if your not running what i consider high spring pressures with a flat tappet cam then the regular oil is probably good, 600lbs spring pressure is roller cam range why are you using a flat tappet? is it to fit into a class for racing? what class do you run and how much hp are you making?

 

why not? ill be using 10w-30 rotellaT diesel oil 5quarts and 1 quart of lucas...lucas isnt that thick...well the stops leaks stuff is but just the regular old lucas addative isnt much thicker then a 15w-40 engine oil and it helps stop leaks and consumption and it does work...good too especially with diesel oils

 

Have you thought buy 2 10w30 no synthetic just regular.
Then put one in outside or something is very cold and put one in house where warm room is.

Then next day check which one moving fast and which one not moving fast like honey.

That why I don't feel it good idea use lucas in winter but I would use in summer where it warm.

 

Sprint Cup, close to 850 peak HP. We have to run a flat tappet in cup, although the Nationwide does run a roller cam.

 

Synthetic and conventional oils are completely interchangable at any time. I would not mix them at home thinking your getting a "semi-syn" like motorcraft oil. Synthetic oils causing engine leaks is an urban legand. Any high detergent oil has the perpencity cause this to happen. I've been using using the Mobiil 1 in my new cars starting form the first oil change, no leaks in 15 years.

Tim