damn!! i just build motors on the side for drag racing and street wow i would LOVE to see the insides of one of those nascar motors i'd bet there is some crazy stuff going on

 

No doubt, my opinion is just one of the many and no better than any of them.

And yes, it is my opinion that changing synthetic every 5000 is a waste of cash. Mostly because in all the miles you will have driven the rig using regular oil, there will be numerous other things that will need money spent for repairs, you know, brakes, water pump, belts, hoses, switches, hinges, etc., etc. and how long do most folks really own a car? If you buy a new car and use synthetic every 5000 miles and sell it after 50,000 miles, then you've definitely wasted some cash.

I like the link to the OIL study. I'll ready it when I get a chance.

 

What about Additives?

Hope this will help you.

 

You may want to look into what Honeywells "main business" is. They are all over your vehicles. Seatbelts, carpet, brakes, turbochargers, coolant.
They have their hand in everything. Aircraft intermentation and Turbine engines and APU's is huge part of the business. Pilot that landed safely in the Hudson when his engines when his engines sucked up those birds was able to land because his Garrett (Honeywell) APU started and provided hydrolics.

Having said all that I agree The Fram is a very low cost filter and not what I would go with. the motorcraft/purolater filter is in same price range with far more filtering area at same price. The Mobile 1 is over 3x the cost. $10 vs $3
Here is an interesting read.

Engine Oil Filter Study

Mike

 

Oil leaks caused by synthetic oils are not an urban legend. When synthetic oil is used in a new engine with new seals you will not get leaks. However, older engines with old seals that have used conventional oils their whole life have a tendency to leak synthetic oil more than conventional. I have tried synthetic in the 351 in my truck and my dad has tried it in the 460 in his '97, both motors leak when synthetic is used and neither leak conventional oils or synthetic blends.

Synthetic oils are great and when I rebuild my 351 someday, I will use a synthetic from the first oil change. Until then I will use either a conventional oil or a synthetic blend.

 

As "junky" as the fram filters seem, I haven't heard anyone ever say that their fram filter caused the engine to fail. We have a repair shop outside of philadelphia and put fram on everything that comes in with no problems whatsoever. Sure, the little divider is cardboard - so what? Ford 8N tractors use an oil-resistant cardboard camshaft timing gear! Meanwhile, The transfer case shifter lever on 93-97 trucks is made of crappy metal and they break all the time. The question isn't "metal versus cardboard" but "does it do its job?"

 

Where I agree with your point of will it do the job the Motorcraft filter costs the same and has twice the filter area as the Fram. I've been using Fram and Quakerstate for years but am going back to the motorcraft filter.
Don't see the value in the added cost of the K&N and Mobil 1 filters

 

....Ya Mike it seems like the info we get off the net is only as good as its source....Ithink any good filter made by purolater or champion labs is a good choice...I think there all quality filters...10 vs 3 is a big difference for about the same filter...Lew

 

Well, the claim (on this site) that synthetics causes older engines to leak is the first time that I've heard of that claim. Ford 302 and 351 engines are not exactly as tightly sealed as the newer mod motors.

I don't use any synthetic based oils in my '88 because of this. She currently and always has since new used a quart of oil between changes and she leaks. I've used it exlusively sice '95 when I bought my 4.6L T-bird.

It boils down to what your comfortable with. I'm not trying to sell the idea but until there is as much proof that syn oils can do seal damage as there has been provided that syn oils are the way to go....

Tim

 

That's a good point. Like I said, my neighbor has been using Fram and Penzoil in his 72 van since new and now with near 300Kmi on it, it still runs like a champ.

You're also right about engine failure. I, too, have never heard of any kind of engine problem due to using Fram. But I'm with Gen1. For the same cost I can get a better (according to tests) filter.

 

Now that I've had time to think about it, I do remember reading, or hearing someone complain that the cardboard innards of a Fram came apart. I don't remember if it caused engine failure but it did cause trouble. Don't remember the details but I do remember that much.

 

I got a friend that has a '94 F150 with the 302 that runs synthetic, the previous owner ran synthetic since the motor was almost new and it does not leak at all 15 years later. The only time you get oil leaks caused by using synthetic oil in older engines is when they have ran conventional oil for years. From what I have seen, synthetic oils can protect seals if used from an early date, keep leaks from starting and protect the engine better than synthetics. The leak problems occur in older engines that have been lubricated with conventional oil for years and all of a sudden get synthetic thrown in. For people like you that have been running synthetic since the engine was new, I think it is the best choice. I wish my grandpa had used synthetic in my truck years ago.

 

I don't have access to or proof of any scientific data to intelligently rebutt your statement so I'll go with it. I gotta tell ya that I'm real impressed with the mobil1 oil. Last summer I ran my Expy to Maine from Va (865 miles) and she never used a drop in the round trip. And the great thing was that I didn't have to change the oil like I normally would have after the trip. I let it run till it had 12000 miles on it.

Cheers!

Tim

 

I totally agree with you on the lack of scientific evidence that synthetic oils damage seals. From what I have seen they can preserve new seals and just tend to seep a little more from old seals. No one can refute the evidence that synthetics provide better protection either.

Mobil 1 synthetic is damn good stuff, my dad uses it in my mom's 2005 Expedition and could not be more happy with it. I have a lot of friends that use it as well. Everyone loves it. When I do a nice performance rebuild on my 351 some day (still running strong so I will have a while to wait) it is going to get Mobil 1.

 

10 years ago when I used to work in the Auto Parts biz Quaker State and Pennzoil used to have the highest quanities of Parafinn Wax. Parafinn Wax was a leading contributor to engine sludge. I don't know today if this holds true.

10 - 12 years ago was when the High Mileage oil started coming out and the training we received on it was it was essentially regular motor oil with seal conditioners. The idea behind it was the oil would cause the seals to bloat and extend engine life by reducing oil consumption. So IMO, if you don't have any major oil leaks or oil burning I wouldn't waste the money. Besides it may do more harm than good because it may prematurely wear out your seals.

If you are using Oil that has the highest API Standard codes you are running oil that is much better than when the engine probably was designed!

I like to use Valvoline, Chevron, Mobil, Exxon for Dino oil. I run Mobil One in my Maxima. I use OE filters. Lots of good information and opinions here!