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For quite some time now, as some of you likely know, I've wanted to build a 302 powered Ranger. Well, after three of four years of patiently waiting to find a truck, I finally found one!
Now, I haven't physically seen the truck yet. Dad is working down in Carnduff SK with Fast Trucking right now, and a guy he works with knows a guy who has one, but the engine's shot in it. On his way home one day, dad stopped to look at this Ranger. He said the interior's not great (needs a seat real bad), but the body is generally rust free, and definitely has potential.
To go on top of that, I've been trying to sell a early 70's Dodge station wagon I found a few years ago that I was planning to demo derby. One guy I got in contact with asked if I was looking for anything on trade, so I said a running 302. Well he has one!!
Now that things are finally coming together, I've been pricing out parts like a madman! And I'm waiting impatiently for the snow to melt, so I can get working!!
Good stuff, nice to see a plan come together like that. What year of Ranger are you getting, are you going with an auto or a standard transmission?
Keep me posted in what`s involved in putting a 302 in a Ranger. I`ll follow along with great interest as I`ve had this in the back of my mind for years. I`ve got an old 87 Ranger I can experiment with.
It's an 86 2wd shortbox. I've heard that bodystyle is the easiest to put the v8 in. Don't really know what makes it easier than the later models though.
I'm going with a AOD, simply because I have one, lol.
I'll keep everyone posted. I'm gonna try and take a boatload of pictures while I do this.
Smokin`!
Headers are included as is the remote oil filter kit I`ve heard so much about.
What`s left besides a rad and some other relatively minor small parts excluding the power train?
Off the top of my head, I don't think there's a whole lot else. The heater box needs to be modified to clear the valve cover. But you can cut the piece out that interferes, flip it over, and re-seal the box. A 3" body lift fixes the problem too, but since I've got a 2wd, not gonna do that. The floorpan needs some gentle lovin from sister sledge, mainly along a couple seams in the transmission tunnel.
I'm gonna get a rad through James Duff, make a transmission crossmember, and likely need to get a driveshaft made.
Depending on space, might have to go with a electric fan. It makes sense to do so, but if I can get away with a mechanical for a while, I'll do that.
If the engine has v belts, I'm going to switch to serpentine. I'll need a water pump if I have to switch, serpentine's pumps run reverse of v belt pumps, so I've read.
This truck likely has a 7.5" in it, but I have a 8.8 with 3.73's in a parts truck at home. Depending on if this 302 I'm getting is a roller block or not, I might need a new torque converter. I have a high performance cam at home (its used, but in good shape) for a non-roller block. If it isn't a roller, I'm going to put that cam in before install, and will need more than a factory torque converter.
I want to put a fuel cell in behind the rear axle, where the spare time would normally be. That would give better weight ratio, plus not having to work around the stock gas tank makes exhaust work way simpler. But the safety part of my brain doesn't think its a very good idea. So we'll see if I do that. It also depends on frame rail width, if I can get one to fit.
The heater box can disappear in mine, it`ll just be another summer only toy.
The floor pan will be taken care of by careful use of the plasma, if needed, a little cut here and there plus the gentle reshaping with the hammer.
The James Duff rad sounds like a good idea, any idea of cost?
The transmission cross member shouldn`t be a biggie and my machinist friend can do the drive shaft remade.
I`m hopping for a mechanical fan but if need be an electric is not big deal.
for a while, I'll do that.
I have a 8.8 from an 87 5.0 GT, hoping it`ll fit and I don`t know what gears it has yet.
That would mostly leave just the exhaust work which is where I`ll have to bite the bullet, it won`t be cheap!
So how would that work taking the heater core out. Just loop the lines and patch the firewall? Would your fan in the cab still blow air?? Mine will just be a summer toy too.
The JD rad is $375US. But that's a 4 core aluminum, designed to fit under the front grill support, and has a transmission cooler built in.
Exhaust won't be too bad for me. A friend owns a shop back home, so he'll do it for cost plus $50 or so. Naturally I'd help. I'd still need to get mufflers though.
Also, you have to use a dual sump oil pan (what a terrible design) Apparently rear sumps won't fit. Luckily I have one.
Once I got to it I`d see how leaving the heater core out would work, looping the lines should work. In that case it a neat patch would take care of the firewall opening, no fan though.
At $375 US the JD rad isn`t bad, that`s probably less than a locally custom made one. I don`t suppose any of the rack rads would fit.
Isn`t the dual sump oil pan common on some Fords? I don`t know which ones, maybe Mustangs, F150`s? Our 78 Fairmont V8 had one if I remember right.
They were common on Crown Vics & Grand Marquis. But a lot of those cars had 351s, not 302s. I presume the oil pans are swappable. I know mine is off a 302.
Guess I'll still have to modify the heater box. I want some airflow, other than 2-60 AC, lol.
I don't think this Ranger has A/C. I just want to have some airflow through the cab, other than through the windows. At least so I have defrost for those cool rainy days.