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While I would agree that a front axle u-joint COULD be so frozen as to make it difficult to turn the wheel, I find it highly unlikely that one would be so. If it were, engaging 4WD would likely be a bit catastrophic, and that problem would have been discovered by now.
Was looking for an old post of mine and came across this thread. Just a follow-up, yes I replaced all the ball joints and everything was great!!
About 20k miles later (mentioned in another thread) I had the symptoms discussed here. YES, a front U-joint can ABSOLUTELY freeze up SOLID!!
My truck kept "wobbling" when I'd turn left. Would want to suddenly just redirect itself while driving straight making for some scary commutes!
By the time I had it check out the right outer U-joint was so frozen solid that the end of the axle simply DESTROYED the inside of my manual lock-out hub (no ESOF) and the wheel bearings!!
We noticed it when we took the hub off (which I thought was the issue) and noticed the end of the shaft was "offset" and not centered in the hub. Since it was a frozen bent-shaft the end was not spinning on center but making a big circular motion at the end.
When the axle was pulled out we put it in a vice and STILL could not get the U-joint to release!! It was like it was welded in place!!
I know this thread is 2 years old but if guys really do their homework on here it's nice to have follow-up data in these old threads sometimes!!
I know this a 100000 to 1 long shot but look at your steering box and make sure it is looking ok. My steering box bolts actually broke off not too long after my truck was new. Broke all the way while parking, lucky it did not happen when driving! I realize this was probably a fluke but check any way. Joe
Was looking for an old post of mine and came across this thread. Just a follow-up, yes I replaced all the ball joints and everything was great!!
About 20k miles later (mentioned in another thread) I had the symptoms discussed here. YES, a front U-joint can ABSOLUTELY freeze up SOLID!!
My truck kept "wobbling" when I'd turn left. Would want to suddenly just redirect itself while driving straight making for some scary commutes!
By the time I had it check out the right outer U-joint was so frozen solid that the end of the axle simply DESTROYED the inside of my manual lock-out hub (no ESOF) and the wheel bearings!!
We noticed it when we took the hub off (which I thought was the issue) and noticed the end of the shaft was "offset" and not centered in the hub. Since it was a frozen bent-shaft the end was not spinning on center but making a big circular motion at the end.
When the axle was pulled out we put it in a vice and STILL could not get the U-joint to release!! It was like it was welded in place!!
I know this thread is 2 years old but if guys really do their homework on here it's nice to have follow-up data in these old threads sometimes!!
Nothing wrong with bringing up and old thread. (Oldies but goodies).
I'm experiencing this same issue, wobble in steering, sudden directional changes. I looked at my wheel ujoints and they don't show the rust dust that my other joints did when they were bad. What's thd best way to test them? Just jack up the front end and try to rotate the wheel with them slightly turned?
Is there a good writeup on replacing this ujoints? I'll have a shop press the new ones in, but any help on getting the axles out?
I'm experiencing this same issue, wobble in steering, sudden directional changes. I looked at my wheel ujoints and they don't show the rust dust that my other joints did when they were bad. What's thd best way to test them? Just jack up the front end and try to rotate the wheel with them slightly turned?
Is there a good writeup on replacing this ujoints? I'll have a shop press the new ones in, but any help on getting the axles out?
Jack up one wheel, lock the hub, and put a big screwdriver in the middle of the joint and move it around but sometimes they are at the dry point so you can put an oiled rag in them and drive for a couple days while locked or spray penetrating oil on them while turning sharply in a parking lot. I have done both and it will rejuvenate them and greatly extend their life.
I gave them a good soak without moving the truck or turning the wheel, but it worked wonders. I drove it 50 miles today and not one problem, I was shocked. I plan on soaking them again with some motorcycle chain lube since it thicker and designed to not to sling all over. If this works for the next few days I'll wait to replace them, thanks!
I gave them a good soak without moving the truck or turning the wheel, but it worked wonders. I drove it 50 miles today and not one problem, I was shocked. I plan on soaking them again with some motorcycle chain lube since it thicker and designed to not to sling all over. If this works for the next few days I'll wait to replace them, thanks!
I took a strip of cloth, soaked it in atf, tied one through each ujoint, and drove it for a couple days. Another time I went to a parking lot, sprayed the joints with penetrating oil, made some tight turns, repeat, repeat, and both times it rejuvenated the dry grease in the joints which is common due to lack of using them and water getting in them.
I gave them a good soak without moving the truck or turning the wheel, but it worked wonders. I drove it 50 miles today and not one problem, I was shocked. I plan on soaking them again with some motorcycle chain lube since it thicker and designed to not to sling all over. If this works for the next few days I'll wait to replace them, thanks!
You can either take a strip of cloth, soak it in ATF, tie one through each joint, and drive for a couple days, or go to a parking lot, spray penetrating oil on them, make a sharp circle, repeat, repeat. Your heavier oil might work also with the rag trick. Mine have been good for 2 years now and saved a u-joint replacement. A lot of people don't realize that they dry out and don't wear out. They only get about a tenth of the action the rear driveshaft u-joints get and with less force as it is divided between the two. Water also plays a role in their demise but they rarely actually wear out.
i recently changed the gear box on my f250 since my wheels will only turn to the left 2 times with very little turning radius. i have already repalced ball joints, tie rods, and axle u joints. the steering is tight it will turn to the right just fine and my steering wheel wont return to center if i sway either way. what else could my problem be
yes, the only thing i can come up with so far is i am going to remove the new gearbox and install another gear box hoping it was rebuilt wrong. Whats your idea.
yes, the only thing i can come up with so far is i am going to remove the new gearbox and install another gear box hoping it was rebuilt wrong. Whats your idea.
Sounds like the pitman arm isn't in the right place or they didn't center the pitman shaft when they rebuilt it.