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Hard starting problems?

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Old Feb 23, 2009 | 10:44 PM
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Hard starting problems?

Ok trying to figure out the hard starting when cold. Only had the truck a week. When i turn the key on. the lights start to click/dim. after a few secs it quits. At this time I noticed the GP relay next to the turbo is also clicking. I take it that means it is working? I did see a bit of white smoke come off it during this. Now its about 40degrees. When i try to start it it wants to start but cant keep going. White cloud of smoke comes out the tailpipe. And will eventually start. Then runs clean no smoke at all. Im plugging it in tonight and will try it tomorrow.

Before I get this truck legal, what other items should i replace since I want to go though it now. Common problem parts?
 
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 12:41 AM
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with plugging it in it will fire right up.the clicking means you have dead glowplugs.what year is your truck?
 
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 05:44 AM
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Please put up a signature with all your truck info....... different years different GP systems.

The Wait to Start light should stay on 10-15 seconds on a cold engine then the clicking should start..... Sounds like you have a late 6.9 or a 7.3 with the solid state system. ONLY Beru/Motorcraft GPs to be used if you want reliability and safety....
 
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by rupejosh
with plugging it in it will fire right up.the clicking means you have dead glowplugs.what year is your truck?
1994 F-250 4x4 7.3 Turbo IDI E4OD
 
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 01:45 PM
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hey same as me lol.you have dead glowplugs and your return lines might be leaking as well.but the clicking is dead glow plugs.have you tested them?my guess is you have 2 or 3 dead
 
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by rupejosh
hey same as me lol.you have dead glowplugs and your return lines might be leaking as well.but the clicking is dead glow plugs.have you tested them?my guess is you have 2 or 3 dead
If the light stays on for 10 seconds, and then starts clicking, that is normal.

On a cold engine, if light goes out in a couple of seconds and relay starts clicking, then I would suspect glow plugs.

Jason
 
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 07:50 PM
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well mine seems to be in the same state...but mine is that it loses prime if it isnt run like everyday...the guy im getting it from thinks its leaking air in in the IP...but mine had sat for a couple years...so we dont know whats going on...sorry for the threadjack, but similar problems and the solutions may help us both
 
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 08:07 PM
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so the clicking of the glow plug relay is normal or does it mean that you have dead glow plugs because after my wait to start light goes out like after 7-10 seconds in 15-20 degree weather the relay starts clicking but it doesnt while the wait to start light is on....it also goes on clicking for about 5 seconds after it is started as well.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Peterbilt376x
so the clicking of the glow plug relay is normal or does it mean that you have dead glow plugs because after my wait to start light goes out like after 7-10 seconds in 15-20 degree weather the relay starts clicking but it doesnt while the wait to start light is on....it also goes on clicking for about 5 seconds after it is started as well.
I would say that you may have 1 or more bad glowplugs if it is only staying on that long when cold. In 40* F weather today, mine stayed on for at least 10 seconds.

Jason
 
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 08:51 PM
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Depending on which setup it is will vary the time the older 83-86 only stay on for roughly 10 seconds max, but the 87-94.5 should stay on almost 20 full seconds.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 09:54 PM
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Ok had it plugged in overnight, jumped in waited about 10 seconds light went out then all it did was click click click from the relay and the lights would dim a bit.(both batts are new) brrrrumm knoc knoc knoc started like a dream. Im going to say its the glow plugs?? Since the relay is clicking.

Now is there a way to test the GP's without taking off the vaulve cover?
Also is there a kit I can pick up Gp's vaulve covers, and anything else i may need?
 
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 10:10 PM
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The GP's are NOT under the valve covers, they are right next to the injectors. If you are gonna replace the GP's only buy Motorcraft/Beru's. Autolights, bosch's and champions will only last about 10 days max before they burn up.


You can test the GP's buy taking a test light and hooking one end to the hot side of your battery, then individually test each GP, if if lights up then its good, if your test light doesn't light up then you have a bad plug.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 07:07 AM
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Going to change them out tonight, anything I need to know other than don't let anything drop into the cylinder like oil?
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 01:07 PM
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the only thing that makes me not believe that i have bad gp's is that it starts fine in the cold no problems at all
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 04:55 PM
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Ok, It looks like every connector is dry rotted and broken, Can these be purchased... or should the be replaced?
Also if I ohm the GP's What should the read if good?
 
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