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Well, 7 of 8 are done. Can you guess which one is left?
I ohm'd each out and was getting 3 to 4 oh ohms on each old one. ( 6 of the 8 ) The one under the turbo was not even hooked up. Nor could i reach it to test it. So I know at least one is bad. I pulled out Champion Plugs. And they were reading the same. ( i did test them while they were in the block, dont know if that make a difference ).
Well, 7 of 8 are done. Can you guess which one is left?
I ohm'd each out and was getting 3 to 4 oh ohms on each old one. ( 6 of the 8 ) The one under the turbo was not even hooked up. Nor could i reach it to test it. So I know at least one is bad. I pulled out Champion Plugs. And they were reading the same. ( i did test them while they were in the block, dont know if that make a difference ).
I replaced all 8 GP's with new ones. Then checked all the old ones with my battery charger. All 8 worked. So now im wondering if this would of been the problem or not. The back GP under the turbo was not hooked up, nor do I see a wire to plug to it. Is there an illustration I can look at so I can run a new wire? I will try and start it after I get the new wire on.
i did glow plugs on a 91 for a friend who's truck would not start without plugging it in. i pulled out 8 champions. they all light up when hooked to the battery, but the truck would not start on the glow plugs.
after i put the Motorcraft plugs in, it would fire rite up down as cold as -10º,
it had to be the champion plugs.
i did glow plugs on a 91 for a friend who's truck would not start without plugging it in. i pulled out 8 champions. they all light up when hooked to the battery, but the truck would not start on the glow plugs.
after i put the Motorcraft plugs in, it would fire rite up down as cold as -10º,
it had to be the champion plugs.
Well I hope that's the case. I pulled out 7 Champion GP's. The one under the turbo was a NC..or NY. That's all that was on it. But i put in the motorcraft/beru GP's in.
OK, I had clicking in the beginning when i would turn the key. Would one unplugged glow plug do this? Or does this occur even if all GP's are connected?
Second, Is there a way to test the GP relay? Other that taking out a GP and turning the key on?
have someone turn the key on, while you are under the hood with a volt meter, neg to the neg of the battery, and pos on the meter to a glow plug tip. see if you get power. if you do, the glow plug circuit is ok. if you don't you will have to backtrack to find the loss of power.
did you check the ground on the controller??
also, don't worry about the clicking for now.
we will get to that later.
have someone turn the key on, while you are under the hood with a volt meter, neg to the neg of the battery, and pos on the meter to a glow plug tip. see if you get power. if you do, the glow plug circuit is ok. if you don't you will have to backtrack to find the loss of power.
did you check the ground on the controller??
also, don't worry about the clicking for now.
we will get to that later.
Thanks for the reply!!
Ok Ill give that a shot in the morning. I'll try each GP to make sure all of them are getting Voltage. BUT my last GP is not connected, there isn't a wire for it. I'm guessing that I should connect a wire from another GP and just jumper it over?
The missing glow plug is part of your problem.
The glow plug under the turbo is a pain, are you sure the wire is not behind the main harness hiding from you?
A pain? It was so tight I said a few four letter words. But I got er. i would have to look inside the plastic that houses the wires. But I didn't see anything. I was hoping to fine a wiring diagram on here. Please keep posted, Ill let you know the outcome.
well mine seems to be in the same state...but mine is that it loses prime if it isnt run like everyday...the guy im getting it from thinks its leaking air in in the IP...but mine had sat for a couple years...so we dont know whats going on...sorry for the threadjack, but similar problems and the solutions may help us both
Chubby every idi I have ever bought that sat for a year or so had to have a return line kit. Apparantly the orings shrink from sitting and not beeing warmed up all the time causing them to lose there prime. This is much more common than your ip causing it not to mention cheaper.
Also just because they are not leaking fuel does not mean there is not an air leak.
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