'95 A/C Compressor
This set-up worked better than the original.
On my way to Southern Arizona last fall, this pump froze, too.

Another guy down here tells me the components , or design?, of these were "built to eat themselves", and he could replace it with a newer design built from different materials.
I really want my A/C, but refuse to waste that much $$$ again.
Is there any truth to this "new design"??
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum61/
In my limited experiences with compressors going bad usually happen because of small leaks that require adding a can of refrigerant every year or two with out adding a little oil or.... because of over-charging the system. Some of the 'fix-a-leak' additives can cause failures too.
It may not even have locked up. Did you check it? The clutch is kinda common to fail on these year models in my opinion. I've been discovering that certain brand of belts from aftermarket stores are the right listing for it but too tight and wear the clutch bearings out. They cause most of the other pulley bearings to fail too. I got burned twice last year by one place that I bought belts from. They fit but were too tight on the tensioner.
I know it's rediculously expensive getting ac work done these days. It's a total scam by garages if you ask me. That's why I work for myself now. Home acs aren't much different. I got several quotes to put air in my house last year and the lowest was 9000 dollars. I did it myself for 900!. I used the exact same brand new parts they were going to also. Go figure.
A car AC shouldn't cost more than 500 to replace the compressor. When I first got my 97 powerstroke I had to replace it and it was about 250 dollars worth of parts and refrigerant. When I did it professionally most people were getting a bill for over a thousand though. Blame the flat rate pay system for the high price and probably for the system not lasting very long.
Well, then they call to say my fan clutch is garbage because it doesn't pull enough air at idle, and that causes an overpressure situation. Bad news. I'm pretty sure it has never pulled "enough air" at idle for the A/C, and I bought this truck new. A/C has always been weak when stuck in traffic. However, the clutch seems to work normally when the engine needs a little more air - the temp guage never goes higher than mid range.
Dilemma - Pay $400 for another stock fan clutch - that I'm not convinced is any better than what I have - or looking at some sort of semi auto electric booster fan for those idle situations.
I really need some ideas, guys. Sooner would be better!
Thanks-
Jess
Edit - The service manager just called to say he watched the tech STOP the fan with his finger while it was idling. Not something I would have tried!
Last edited by HoseDog; Feb 25, 2009 at 05:41 PM. Reason: just got a call
The fan can be stopped when at idle if it is not hot. (Disclaimer: I would not try stopping it with your finger, just shows your ignorance IMO).
If you have no problems driving or towing (if you do any) then an electric fan would help your idle situation. There are stories on here that once you go electric the A/C is colder than ever. I personally would go all electric if you could. It takes some fab work but you get good results. I plan on this setup eventually myself.
Often the sensing element on the front of it can be blown off and it will work fine again. Not all the time though. If it's covered with dirt or mud real bad then it won't know when your radiator is hot. Try to clean it off first with compressed air but still be prepared to replace it.
Once you do replace it have the charge checked again. It will probably be off from when it was charged with not enough air flow.




