hello again; I want to rebuild my a/c again (for the 4th time since 1999), avoiding the FS-10 compressor which simply can't take the heat. I want a different compressor, GM, japanese, korean, I don't care as long as it has a proven record of reliability like the GM AJ-6 compressor used in the 1980's Jaguar XJ-6, a massive compressor which lasts and lasts. The problem is finding a way to adapt a different compressor to the 3.0 block mountings, (4 bolts).

I am even willing to eliminate the Rear a/c in my Aerostar if it will give me some reliability, since I am suspicious that the Rear unit might be the cause of the system failing everytime.

In the last rebuild, we installed a new FS-10 compressor, Condenser, O-tubes, liquid lines, compressor-to-condenser-to accumulator line, and accumulator. Every remaining hose was flushed and reverse flushed, then air flushed, all o-rings were replaced, (4 lbs. of R-12 are still in the system, proof of a good sealing job). The job was done by a reputable a/c shop. It lasted about 11 months and the compressor started making internal noises, then it froze/seized. No more a/c. Bill, the shop tech, by now a friend who has
helped me through 3 of the 4 rebuilds, told me to replace the vehicle and not bother anymore with the Aerostar a/c. I told him there are no Rear Wheel Drive Minivans anymore, so I have to get this problem resolved in this vehicle.

I will appreciate any advice on the subject of alternative compressors for the Aerostar 3.0. I refuse to go with an FS-10 again. Been bitten 3 times.

Jose A.

 

Normally these compressors are reasonably reliable, but if in doubt, get the compressor from and newer model, like a 1996 or 1997. As far as your mechanic goes, they don't understand that the Aerostar is among the most reliable vehicles in their class. They are often good for over 300,000 miles. What he really means is that he doesn't like working on it, and he thinks the vehicle is dying. I don't think the problem is with the compressor, I think that somehow debris is remaining in the system and not getting out. I do not think reverse flushing is a good idea, and you did not mention anything about the orfice tube, was it replaced (both of them?) was the rear ac flushed?

I would be suspicious of rear AC problems, and I'm sure your choosen mechanics are doing good work, but they may not be familiar with the little things specific to the Aerostar. I would also retrofitt your system, since a complete R-12 refill now costs more than some of your hoses. I recommend Freezone if you can find it, or FR-12. Avoid all other brands, as they may be approved by the EPA, but that says nothing about how well they work. Also, most of them do not have much in the way of warranties. You may have to add this yourself, since most shops do not want to use it in their equpment (according to EPA regulations, you can't use the sme equipment for multiple refrigerants)

 

the FS-10 has been used reliably in a number of Ford apps. Rangers, Explorers, Ford Super Duty trucks up thru the big F550, Lincolns, Mustangs, etc.

put on a new viscous fan clutch-important for strong air flow thru condenser
back spray radiator fins with hoze nozzle and check for any air restrictions....is fan shroud on...make sure drive belt is not slipping and is good shape...change every 30k miles in hi A/C useage areas...that poor serpentine drives over 20hp of accessories, bending, twisting and getting it's back shined like a snake
all critical to reducing load on compressor

the greenhouse Aero box puts a huge load on an a/c system especially with rear air all on 1 pump....everything must be perfect for good cooling and long life.....the pump will run almost continuously with dual ac on and in temps over 90d F outside

run on MAX position (recycles interior air only) and lower fan speed to control cooling....does not draw in hot outside air and lowers load on compressor

what oil did the a/c tech use?
use only PAG ISO 46 low viscosity A/C oil in FS-10 systems, no dyes, no sealers, no O ring conditioners....all are just extra sticky goop in the system

black death from the FS-10 series reciprocating block is almost impossible to remove from a dual system
were both evaporators and all inline filters (the black inline canisters) front and rear replaced? there is an electrical valve in back system that will be full of black death puss
almost impossible to remove black death from hoses, bonds loosely to interior and to fittings...replace all
evacuate system with nitrogen before putting in oil and new refrig.

been running R134a in mine for over 10 years...165k miles, same FS-10 original FoMoCo.....gets a flush, nitrogen blow out and new clean PAG ISO 46 every 3 years....runs silent and COOOOLD

the black death in your system now will kill an AJ-6 in a year or two

 

Well stated. I wish we could give you better advise, but getting that stuff out of the rear lines is just about impossible, especially after multiple black deaths. It would be an aweful lot of work to retrofit an different compressor only to have it eaten alive as well. I would remove the rear evaporator, and flush it seperately and replace all hoses. I'm afraid there is no better solution, but if it gets done properly and then gets maintained, you should be good to go with the OEM compressor.

 

at least these Aero's don't cost $3,000 to $6,000 like a Honda/Acura to do a complete A/C system overhaul repair

Jose,
here's a starting point click

more indepth click

i had a source link for rear a/c hoses a friend used last year, will try to locate
try the FTE online Ford Motorcraft sources here also....may still be some old Aero rear a/c hoses laying in a Ford dealer parts warehouse in Kalamoozu or Timbuctu

if you don't haul rear passengers? i would bypass the rear system and just replace all of the front

if you stay with rear air? consider a larger more efficient condenser click

 

Hi Jose:

I concur with the other guys. I don't understand why you are having such bad luck with the A/C system. I do all my own A/C work, and I converted the system to R-134a many years ago. It is still working great for me.

I hate to say this, but the guys who worked on your A/C probably messed up somehow. Truth be told, good mechanics are very hard to find these days.

I'd also look very hard at what 96_4wdr is saying about the fan clutch. It's something easily overlooked, and it does cause most of the A/C problems.

 

Just replaced an FS-10 in a '91 that had been in the van since new. I replaced it with another FS-10. Did almost a complete rebuild of the system. Neighbor has a '92 and a '97, all still original compressors (FS-10). BTW...they all have rear air and endure the Texas heat without much of a problem. Most (if not all) compressors come pre-charged with oil, however, for an Aerostar with rear A/C it is imperative that an additional 3 to 4 oz of oil be added. Failure to do this will definitely cause premature failure. Also, I think the recommended charge on the sticker on the fan box is a little high. When I recharge, I use a thermometer in the A/C outlet. I add refrigerant until the output temperature stabilizes. On my '91 with rear A/C it took a little over 3 14oz cans (which comes to less than 3 lbs).
Additionally, you didn't mention the orifice tubes. Hopefully, they were replaced with the proper ones. The front and back ones are different.

...and last but not least, MAINTENANCE. This is not like that Popiel guy on TV (set it and forget it). As mentioned earlier, every two to three years.....

Just my 2 cents worth.....

Klaus Cook
Houston, Texas