If the patch is small, I use a small scrap of sheet metal tacked to the center of the patch. Once the patch is tacked in, I just grind off the tab.
But in most cases, I just hold the panel at an angle, tack one or two spots on one side then push the panel to flush and tack the other side.
I hadn't even though of the magnet though, it would save on the extra sanding!

 

I also use these magnets from HF

Magnets

to hold things where the butt clamps don't work.

they have multiple sizes, small , medium and too large!.

Sam

 

I know everyone has their own way of doing things, but from reading the original post, you say to grind the area down, then progress to 400 grit.

This method is fine if the area you patched needs no filler, and the only time I have seen that is with Tig welding, so more than likely a little filler will be needed to smooth things up. Bondo or plastic filler will need a rough surface to "bite" into, usually I will stick with a 40 grit (or coarser) grinding disc to prep the area, then apply filler and sand with 80 grit till its straight, then primer and block with 180 grit, then primer and block with 400 till its ready for paint.

If a person tried to apply bondo over an area prepped with 400 grit, then your going to have a heck of a time trying to get it to "stick".

 

http://www.welders-direct.com/mercha...ct_Code=907019

Im in the market to purchase a welder to start learning how to weld and tinker with metal stuff. Is this a good one to start with ?? My truck has some stuff that I would eventually like to try and fix myself. If this isn't a good welder to start with please let m e know what is .

thanks

 

CHACH, the Millermatic 135 would be an excellent start for doing sheetmetal work! you will even be able to weld thicker stuff too, but pay attention to the duty cycle and dont overwork the welder.

 

Hey guys i was just wondering if anyone is aware if there are any good books with illustrations that teach and help you out with body work cuz i never did this type of work and i sure have lots to do on my project. Thanks Mat

 

Guys if you have any questions about welding or welders you can ask me directly. I'm not trying to glot or brag but I have an Asst. Degree in Welding Technology form Ferris State and will be starting my last year for my welding Engineering degree. I'm not a pro on step by step procedures for autobody but i can tell you almost anything about equipment.

 

1964/M-100,

I liked "Pro Paint and Body" by Jim Richardson, and Tom Horvath (ISBN: 1557883947) as a good first book. Costs about 20 bucks...

As for welders - they're alot like compressors: buy the biggest, meanest one you can afford! Always better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it...

 

For typical body repair work we do on our trucks, I have found the video (or DVD) put out by Ron Covell www.covell.biz titled "Basic Techniques for Working With Steel" one of the best investments you can make. He show how to do rust repair, hole filling, panel shaping, wire edging, heat shrinking, and on and off dolly hammer and dolly work. The latter alone is worth the price, so many novices actually do more damage than good when they start trying to straighten a panel with a hammer and dolly using the wrong technique. Especially LISTEN to the difference in sound the hammer makes when striking the panel when working on dolly (rings) and off dolly (dull). Unless you are trying to stretch a panel (rarely) you should be working off dolly.

I have a Hobart 140 Mig (<500.00 at Northern Tool), highest amp 115V shielded MIG available, and haven't found anything I wanted to weld on my truck that it was too low powered for, and I can pick it up and carry it around. Like someone said, distance from the weld to the torch and wire feed speed is more critical than power setting. Keep the distance consistant by dragging the shield cup on the metal as you weld, and adjust the wire feed to give you the penetration you need. When working on sheet metal, one trick to reduce burn thru is to slow down the feed just enough that the arc makes and breaks with a stuttering sound as you move along just fast enough to maintain the bead. If you do blow a hole or have a hole 1/2" or smaller to fill, grind off any metal build up on the rear of the area from the burn thru then back the hole with a piece of copper (I use the flattened end of a length of copper waterpipe bent like a small spatula) Hold the copper tight against the back of the hole, and start the weld ON TOP of the surrounding metal NOT at the edge and work back and forth or around the hole towards the center until it's filled. The weld will not stick to the copper which act like a heat sink and backer.