Patch panel/Rust repair
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,557
Likes: 2
From: Texas
Originally Posted by sdetweil
Sheetmetal with my welder will be a challenge I'm sure, with only 4 heat settings. Sam
I also like to leave a small gap around my panels. This allows the weld to grip both pieces. A tight fitting butt joint may expand or contract and contort the surface and require even more dolly work.
This reminds me, you may want to hammer between rounds of spot welding. The finished result will be a smoother panel that requires little or no filler.
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,591
Likes: 14
From: Pflugerville, tx
Yes, I did some practicing on sheetmetal yesterday. I'll admit it was all old cab corner material (up in the good section of the cut off material) and that I didn't clean the material prior to experimenting.
I am using some butt welding clamps that I found at Harbor Freight. They hold the material in a forced gap of .040.
The lowest heat setting did not penetrate as you mentioned, the highest blew holes.. one of the other two worked sometimes..
Thanks,
Sam
I am using some butt welding clamps that I found at Harbor Freight. They hold the material in a forced gap of .040.
The lowest heat setting did not penetrate as you mentioned, the highest blew holes.. one of the other two worked sometimes..
Thanks,
Sam
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 288
Likes: 0
From: Agua Dulce, So. Calif.
Originally Posted by sdetweil
Yes, I did some practicing on sheetmetal yesterday. I'll admit it was all old cab corner material (up in the good section of the cut off material) and that I didn't clean the material prior to experimenting.
I am using some butt welding clamps that I found at Harbor Freight. They hold the material in a forced gap of .040.
The lowest heat setting did not penetrate as you mentioned, the highest blew holes.. one of the other two worked sometimes..
Thanks,
Sam
I am using some butt welding clamps that I found at Harbor Freight. They hold the material in a forced gap of .040.
The lowest heat setting did not penetrate as you mentioned, the highest blew holes.. one of the other two worked sometimes..
Thanks,
Sam
As I said I am no pro, but my understanding is that the wire speed and how much stick out is more of a factor on the amps then the 1,2.3.4 settings. the closer you get the more amps are put to the metal and the faster the wire feed the more amps avialable. try to cut back on the wire feed speed. I have the but weld spacers you mention maybe $4 a pack compared to Eastwood 2-4$ ea. What size wire are you using the smaller .023 is better for sheetmetal. Hammering after first setting up the panel and tacking is a good Idea because the big disadvantage to mig is the wire is too hard to hammerweld flat as apposed to gas and tig when the project is done. Grinding is in store to level the weld area leaving room for more warping. Esab has a wire that is called EZ Grind that is designed for this but welding and patch panel repair being EZier to grind after welding. Ed ke6bnl
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,591
Likes: 14
From: Pflugerville, tx
Originally Posted by ke6bnl
What size wire are you using? The smaller .023 is better for sheetmetal. Hammering after first setting up the panel and tacking is a good idea because the big disadvantage to mig is the wire is too hard to hammerweld flat as apposed to gas and tig when the project is done.
My welder has the four power settings, 25/35/50 and 75 amps.
More experimentation to go!.. I have a while til I need the good sheetmetal skill. Will do the cab floor first, have already done all the heavy welding with flux.
Sam
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,557
Likes: 2
From: Texas
If I can make a suggestion on grinding the welds:
Use a grinder if you must, but only to take down the welds just above the surface. I have found that finishing up the grinds with one of the Dewalt (only brand I have found) flap sanding discs works best at keeping the weld area from getting gouged. I use the 220 grit for this because it sands welds quick but if used gingerly, the weld area is left flat (providing the panels are on the same plane).
Use a grinder if you must, but only to take down the welds just above the surface. I have found that finishing up the grinds with one of the Dewalt (only brand I have found) flap sanding discs works best at keeping the weld area from getting gouged. I use the 220 grit for this because it sands welds quick but if used gingerly, the weld area is left flat (providing the panels are on the same plane).
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 823
Likes: 4
From: Calais, Vermont
Thanks for an inspiring post
Krosati...I have been restoring my 53 F-100 for the past two months. The time finally came for me to deal with the rusted out edge of my roof panel. I've never worked with sheet metal before I began this restore. Your post on patch panels gave me the confidence to proceed with doing all the body repairs myself. The results off my work based on your instruction can be veiwed in my gallery. Thanks. Jvmcc
Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: Barneyville USA
Welding over Por-15
Originally Posted by jvmcc
Thanks for the post. I have very little experience working with sheet metal, but I did as you described, and the results are great. One question, you say that you apply the POR onto the metal surfaces before welding. Doesn't this still leave vunerable spots where the welds are? Wouldn't I still have to get some kind of undercoat or more POR on the backside of parts of the patch when it is in?
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Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,591
Likes: 14
From: Pflugerville, tx
I am going to use a set of clamps I got from Harbor Freight. They have a small band that slides between the two pieces and clamps from both sides
called Butt welding clamps
here is the HF item
Butt Clamps
Sam
called Butt welding clamps
here is the HF item
Butt Clamps
Sam
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 288
Likes: 0
From: Agua Dulce, So. Calif.
Originally Posted by mt54
Sam,
those clamps are great, Thanks for postin the link. I've been lookin for them even in H.F. I couldn't find them . Ididn't know what they called em. Now I can get them!!!
Thanks
Mike
those clamps are great, Thanks for postin the link. I've been lookin for them even in H.F. I couldn't find them . Ididn't know what they called em. Now I can get them!!!
Thanks
Mike
seems like HF get about 5$ a set while Eastwood get about 25$ a set for what seems like the same thing. Ed ke6bnl
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 288
Likes: 0
From: Agua Dulce, So. Calif.
Originally Posted by jvmcc
I've used whatever is handy for butt welds..."C"-clamps and sometimes even tape, just to get the joint started. Those little clamps look pretty handy.
