So what is the "no no" ?
I'm trying to figure out why my batteries seem to be dieing on me after short trips and hardly turning the engine over every day.
I was going to try and see what the current draw was with the negative terminal off the battery.
But since I have 2 batteries, I assume I only have to disconnect 1 negative battery terminal and check the current.
BUT.... I decided not to check via this method until I find out what the reason is for the no no as stated.

 

I don't know what's worse.... the misinformation from some people, or others creating paranoia by being so cryptic.

1. Park the truck and pull the key just like you would on any day.
2. Disconnect the ground cables from both batteries.
3. Set up your digital multimeter. Make sure you have one lead wire connected to the COM terminal and the other to the 10A fused terminal. Set the meter to read DC current.
4. Using the multimeter lead wires, jumper between an unhooked ground cable and a battery (-) terminal. You only want to do this at one battery so all the current for the truck is measured by your multimeter. The truck electrical system will come alive. The multimeter will display the current draw by the truck.
5. Give about 30 seconds for the current draw to stabilize. This is your key-off (quiescent) electrical load that is draining the batteries. There will be some value no matter what. You just want to make sure it is not too high.
6. If it is quite a bit higher than 0.050 Amp, then start pulling fuses to find which circuit is the big culprit. Your problem is somewhere on that circuit. Keep in mind as soon as you open the doors the interior lights will come on and that will make the current jump. Best to have somebody inside with the doors closed to pull fuses.

 

Previously posted: Comments in purple:


<table border="0" cellpadding="6" cellspacing="0" width="100%"> <tbody><tr> <td class="alt2" style="border: 1px inset ;"> Originally Posted by QwkTrip
Some day this thread will come up in a search. Pointing out the "no no" might save that person some expensive trouble.

If I was a betting man I'd say you are thinking about running the vehicle batteryless.
</td> </tr> </tbody></table>
<!-- END TEMPLATE: bbcode_quote -->Running a vehicle "on the alternator", ie; without a battery can damage electronic components. The battery acts as a spike absorber.



Actually I missed that one, and you are right- pointing out a no no could save someone some trouble. Try these:

"Test light only works with a certain range of currents. Too little current and it won't light, but still could be a draw. Too much current and you'll blow the bulb".

A 12 volt bulb can only draw too much current if a higher voltage is applied. A 12 v test light can not draw too much current no matter where applied in a 12 volt system.



"Use a voltmeter between the negative battery post and the negative cable, see what kind of draw you have...".

A multimeter set to "amperes" is needed. A voltmeter will tell you nothing about current in this instance.

".....just have the battery hooked up and your volt meter on ohms, not diode test (buzzing)".

Having your meter set to "ohm" and connecting it to 12 volts, unless it is an expensive goofproof meter, will result in a smoked meter.



A government that abrogates any of the Bill of Rights, with or without majoritarian approval, forever acts illegitimately, becomes tyrannical, and loses the moral right to govern-Jeffrey Snyder

 

I don't know what this "no no" is, but from myself I am just trying to help (experiences from myself only). It looked like some picked out statements (one mine) to some un-resolve answers. But, anyhooooo (I am happy go lucky), I don't know your installation of the second batterie so therefore, I guess I am doing "RED" "no no",(how I interpret the meaning). "Opinions are many", just trying to help. Hope not a "no no", did you happen to try the ohms check on your light system (I do need to catch up on why second batterie, it has been awhile, but I read all the back logs I could find, but started as this one "second batterie". Sounds like from "post 8" you are traveling the same road I was for years. Ended up worst case, "Drive through food places would tell me to turn my car off, but I couldn't since I couldn't restart the car, therefore I always ended up ordering in....lol (after starting the car I had to unhook the positive post to save the battery... but there were other phases... Solution coming..Finally the hot wire quit bouncing then seared to the frame which only then I was able to pick it up on the ohms check to the tail light hot wire. I agree with the person that said ohms check (not buzzing, " it won't tell you if there is a short to ground, which could fit your situation") is the only way to find out, but sometimes (my personel experience, NOT CONTRODICTING) it has to be vibrating normally to find the culprit". It is what I personally call a "ghost", I.E. ohms is correct car off, but "PROBLEMS" when he is car running/vibrating. 0 cost in trying, but I suggest to WIGGLE/JIGGLE the wires when the "ohm" meter is hooked up. Sorry for the novel, first part with "no, no" that I don't understand/was irritating when just trying to help.

 

Not trying to change the subject, but looked at the "fine ad of NO NO" of the "logo Strategic Air Command"; Didn't know that a military logo (personel use) could be used on a public site (your welcome)! But, on the batterie note: QwkTrip has some good points. Don't feel bad, I figured out my own latest car issue (experienced, one the same as yours), but the advice of many on this sight, gave me different ways of looking at things (a person can never learn too much, but must consider the grain of salt). Giving advice with non hands on is hard, therefore, I share my experiences not suggestions of spending money.

 

The "logo" you refer to is an "avatar" - look it up. Just so happens I wore that particular "logo" for a good many years.

As to "no-no", I was mildly chastised for not stating what they were, and now for stating what they were. Which way do you want it? As to the red statements, which reply in purple did you think was wrong? Just asking.....


“If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”—The Dalai Lama, (May 15, 2001, The Seattle Times)

 

It's all good, was just wondering what it was. Everything is a possibility, therefore didn't think any of it could be wrong. I wonder if he has checked the fuzible links in the harness. I've had to replace those before since they were causing the same thing. The backfeed was/can be a batterie killer. What you think?

 

I have 2005 SD V10 XLT and drive 1 mile to work in the winter with heat and lights on and have no problems with the original battery in my truck. I live in the UP of MI and we have cold and winter here. One other post said to check your alternator could be bad diodes that is a good place to start, I have seen that problem before. The alternator on my truck is the 130 amp and no problems. What are you leaving on in this truck when you are at work ? do you have a large parasital load as phone chargers, radios, and disc players this stuff will kill your battery in eight hours if you have enough of a draw with them. It could be that simple to unplug you toys in your truck and cure your problems.

 

Help I have a question my battery light is coming on intermittently. I have changed the alternator, batteries and cleaned the battery connectors. The light is still coming on and not sure what to check next anyone have any ideas?<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>