ANY cold weather = No Start!
#1
ANY cold weather = No Start!
I have a 2001 Ford Explorer Sport with 150,000 miles. Did a full tune up and replaced fuel pump last year, didn't help problem. As soon as the weather gets cold (below 40 degrees) and its the first start of the day I cant get it started. This ONLY happens in the Fall and Winter. The colder it is the worse it is.
Sometimes it takes up to 15 min to get it started (on really cold days). Sometimes I completely drain the battery before I can get it started. Once it starts, it runs fine all day long. Even if I drive it for 15min then park it for 4 hours, still starts no problem!
Please Help!
Sometimes it takes up to 15 min to get it started (on really cold days). Sometimes I completely drain the battery before I can get it started. Once it starts, it runs fine all day long. Even if I drive it for 15min then park it for 4 hours, still starts no problem!
Please Help!
#2
This can be difficult without gathering information while the problem is occurring. An engine need air fuel and spark. You need to know which is not happening at the moment it won't start. For example, you need a fuel pressure gauge on the engine during cranking to determine its not the fuel delivery. Once that's out, you need to know that you have spark while cranking. some component is worn out and doesn't want to operate until its warm. Without gathering the above information your just buying parts.
#3
It really "feels" like a fuel issue (even though I did the fuel pump). I bought 4 or 5 bottles of fuel treatment based on a recommendation that I received bad gas with water in it. I think that helped a bit, but I don't think it was anything special. Maybe it was just because it was getting warm again at that point.
#4
You need to connect a LIVE DATA SCANNER, check the AIT and ECT, they should be at ambient temp (check with IR gun) before engine start.... These reading are used to determine injector pulse (enriched start)..
The ECT should then rise to >180* in order for the PCM to enter and maintain closed loop.... Philip
The ECT should then rise to >180* in order for the PCM to enter and maintain closed loop.... Philip
#6
IAT = Sensor module to measure air intake temperature. This K-Type thermo couple intake air temperature..
ECT = The Engine coolant temperature sensor is used to measure the temperature of the engine coolant of an internal combustion engine. This is NOT the dash gauge sensor...
... Philip
ECT = The Engine coolant temperature sensor is used to measure the temperature of the engine coolant of an internal combustion engine. This is NOT the dash gauge sensor...
... Philip
#7
So if the IAT module is bad and it was misreading the air intake temp why wouldnt the car start? Is there a default or "breaking point" temp that would stop the motor from starting? Also, if it was bad, why would it malfunction ONLY when its a bit cold?
I guess my same questions apply to the coolant temp sensor.
I guess my same questions apply to the coolant temp sensor.
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#8
So if the IAT module is bad and it was misreading the air intake temp why wouldnt the car start? Is there a default or "breaking point" temp that would stop the motor from starting? Also, if it was bad, why would it malfunction ONLY when its a bit cold?
I guess my same questions apply to the coolant temp sensor.
I guess my same questions apply to the coolant temp sensor.
#9
Another thing you could try would be to crank the engine over for a few seconds, then if it won't start, hold the throttle all the way open. This will put the PCM in "clear flood" mode which will shut off the fuel injectors. Try to start the engine again with the throttle to the floor. If it starts pretty quickly this way, chances are quite good either the IAT or ECT sensors are reading incorrectly as mentioned above.
-Rod
-Rod
#11
Greetings gentlemen, I'm having the exact same issue with my 05 f250 V10. Whenever it gets cold the engine cranks and cranks like its starving for fuel. I've been researching and researching. I cleaned my MAF and replaced my throttle position sensor (shop wanted to replace entire unit sensor/body/dcmotor for $500) I replaced TPS for $70.00. I finally went to a shop and they told me I had low fuel pressure at the rail and they replace my fuel pump. I'm still having the issue. They told me then it may be a fuel pump relay because their scanner was showing either a code or no voltage to the fuel pump, I can't recall what he said. I'm not having much confidence in this shop.
I started reading about the IAC and was hoping that this sounded like the fix for my cold weather start issues. But then I read that my truck possibly doesn't have an IAC and is fly-by-wire maybe. The shop is telling me either the fuel pump relay $357.00 or a new PCM and flash for $1,100.
As the OP said it feels that the engine is starving for fuel, I can get it started by barely cranking the engine many times (not continuous crank) and then pumping the gas pedal. Other than the starting I have no rough idle or stalling problems.
Any info would be greatly appreciated gents!
P.S the original owner wired in trailer brakes (he shorted a bunch of stuff out i.e speedo, check eng light, abs, no trailer breaks and what not) I removed his install and got most systems back online. Is it possible he shorted something in PCM? Odometer still comes on intermittently...
Thanks,
Allyn
I started reading about the IAC and was hoping that this sounded like the fix for my cold weather start issues. But then I read that my truck possibly doesn't have an IAC and is fly-by-wire maybe. The shop is telling me either the fuel pump relay $357.00 or a new PCM and flash for $1,100.
As the OP said it feels that the engine is starving for fuel, I can get it started by barely cranking the engine many times (not continuous crank) and then pumping the gas pedal. Other than the starting I have no rough idle or stalling problems.
Any info would be greatly appreciated gents!
P.S the original owner wired in trailer brakes (he shorted a bunch of stuff out i.e speedo, check eng light, abs, no trailer breaks and what not) I removed his install and got most systems back online. Is it possible he shorted something in PCM? Odometer still comes on intermittently...
Thanks,
Allyn
#12
M
I have a 2001 Ford Explorer Sport with 150,000 miles. Did a full tune up and replaced fuel pump last year, didn't help problem. As soon as the weather gets cold (below 40 degrees) and its the first start of the day I cant get it started. This ONLY happens in the Fall and Winter. The colder it is the worse it is.
Sometimes it takes up to 15 min to get it started (on really cold days). Sometimes I completely drain the battery before I can get it started. Once it starts, it runs fine all day long. Even if I drive it for 15min then park it for 4 hours, still starts no problem!
Please Help!
Sometimes it takes up to 15 min to get it started (on really cold days). Sometimes I completely drain the battery before I can get it started. Once it starts, it runs fine all day long. Even if I drive it for 15min then park it for 4 hours, still starts no problem!
Please Help!
#13
starting poroblems
79 ford expedition will not crank when cold only on first start
new started ,new battery ,new solenoid , Fuses and relays all good but will start like a purring kitten jumbling the solenoid
after the truck warms up the key will start it every time but when it gets cold no juice makes it to the solenoid from the ignition untill it warns up again
please help out of ideas on how to fix it
new started ,new battery ,new solenoid , Fuses and relays all good but will start like a purring kitten jumbling the solenoid
after the truck warms up the key will start it every time but when it gets cold no juice makes it to the solenoid from the ignition untill it warns up again
please help out of ideas on how to fix it
#14
I think you have a typo in the model year.
So if I'm understanding your issue correctly, the starter motor does not engage and spin the engine over when it's cold outside and the first start of the day? Did you confirm with a meter or test light that there is no voltage making it to the starter solenoid, or that's just speculation because you don't hear any noise?
-Rod
So if I'm understanding your issue correctly, the starter motor does not engage and spin the engine over when it's cold outside and the first start of the day? Did you confirm with a meter or test light that there is no voltage making it to the starter solenoid, or that's just speculation because you don't hear any noise?
-Rod
#15
Thank you Rod
you were right THE DATE IS BACKWARDS should have been 97 ...
I may have found the problem .... a small amount of corrosion on the solenoid wire
but will not know for sure untill it gets below zero again ...come Sunday they are saying 15 to 20 F below here and we will find out if it still works
but as for now after cleaning the wires it is now starting every time
John
you were right THE DATE IS BACKWARDS should have been 97 ...
I may have found the problem .... a small amount of corrosion on the solenoid wire
but will not know for sure untill it gets below zero again ...come Sunday they are saying 15 to 20 F below here and we will find out if it still works
but as for now after cleaning the wires it is now starting every time
John