battery issue
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New User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 10
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From: Falls Church VA
battery issue
I dont know if anyone can help. I have a 2004 f250 Lariat. In the winter, the battery will die occasionally. It only happens in the winter, it only happens after a short trip. Battery will be fine, easy start, park the truck and 4 hours later the battery will be anywhere from partially drained to fully drained. used 2 batteries last year, dealer couldnt find a problem.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,007
Likes: 4
From: Central Florida
Electricity has to work harder at lower temperatures. You probably have a slightly higher draw when it's cold out and your short trips don't bring the batteries charge back up from when you started the engine.
I had the same issues with optima blue top batteries. After three years, the 2 mile drive to work wasn't leaving me enough reserve to start the engine after 8 hours of sitting. I ended up replacing the battery after couple of no starts. It worked well enough, until the three year life was up.
I have changed batteries now and have a bigger alt. If your constantly making short runs, you may want to look into an alternator which has a higher amperage at low speed.
I had the same issues with optima blue top batteries. After three years, the 2 mile drive to work wasn't leaving me enough reserve to start the engine after 8 hours of sitting. I ended up replacing the battery after couple of no starts. It worked well enough, until the three year life was up.
I have changed batteries now and have a bigger alt. If your constantly making short runs, you may want to look into an alternator which has a higher amperage at low speed.
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New User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 10
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From: Falls Church VA
I replaced the battery and it worked well for about a week. the temperature just has to be below (40?) and drive time under about 15 minutes, even then it is hit and miss. this has been going on for about 3 years, dealer has looked at it tons of times. I have replaced the battery a total of 4 times in 3 years. If i run more than 15 minute drive, even on subzero day, not a problem.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 6,757
Likes: 5
From: Corvallis, OR
Buy a Geo Metro to put those short trips on, don't wear out your SuperDuty on them. Alternatively, put a higher output alternator on it that does more amps at idle. Another option is to put a battery maintainer on it and plug it in at night, but that would be a hassle.
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Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,007
Likes: 4
From: Central Florida
A single alt rated at 130A is probably going to put out 90A at low speed (cruise). With your heater and headlights running, you need in the area of 110A. So now your drawing the extra 20A from the battery which isn't recharging it. You probably notice it more in the winter because of the heater and possibly the heated seats drawing more current.
Your options are to drive longer, use less current or install an alt which produces the amperage you need plus some to recharge the battery. Perhaps a remote start would help, let the truck run some before you turn the heater on to rebuild some the batteries charge, or work out a high idle and turbo timer to keep the engine spinning up once you turn the accessories off and get out.
Your options are to drive longer, use less current or install an alt which produces the amperage you need plus some to recharge the battery. Perhaps a remote start would help, let the truck run some before you turn the heater on to rebuild some the batteries charge, or work out a high idle and turbo timer to keep the engine spinning up once you turn the accessories off and get out.
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Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 10
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From: Falls Church VA
I have tried running without lights, without heat running, with temp selector on cold. also, the added draw would make sense if the battery only partially died, however atleast half the time, when i get back in the truck, the battery is completely dead. could the heated mirrors do this, and is it possible they stay on sometimes after the key is turned off?
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,007
Likes: 4
From: Central Florida
I don't think so. You need to break out your DMM and check the draw with the engine off. You should have under 50mA, however if you up in the 100-200mA range you have a draw issue with the key off. If it's under 75mA, then you have battery/Alt issues. You can also check your voltages before and after a drive to get an idea of the battery's charge state. 12.6v is full charged, with 12.5-13v normal. 11.8 is about 75% charged.
Most starting batteries can only handle a couple of discharges down to 10v without being damaged.
Most starting batteries can only handle a couple of discharges down to 10v without being damaged.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 780
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From: merrimack valley
yeah something drawing
primitive test light method
disconect negative and hook up tight between diconected cable and - post
if draw light will be on start pulling fuses to locate circut
start w/dome,radio,so on
primitive test light method
disconect negative and hook up tight between diconected cable and - post
if draw light will be on start pulling fuses to locate circut
start w/dome,radio,so on
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 6,757
Likes: 5
From: Corvallis, OR
Test light only works with a certain range of currents. Too little current and it won't light, but still could be a draw. Too much current and you'll blow the bulb. Use a multimeter, start in the 10A range, if low use the mA range. Make sure the fuses are good in the multimeter or it won't register any current.