I'm getting ready to go get some metal for the front panel on my bed & to make a patch for my running boards. Anyone have any idea on the gage metal I need?
ART

 

Here is an excellent article that was written some time ago.

I think if you read through the first couple or three posts, you will find your answer.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...t-welding.html

 

The bed sides are 16 ga...some vendors are selling heavier weight beds now that are made from 14 ga.

 

I like to use one ga thicker metal than the surrounding metal for patches, it is easier to weld and gives you some metal to work with in finishing. There is an inexpensive thickness ga you can buy. Looks like a sheet metal disk with various size slots cut in around the outside. Just find the narrowest slot that the metal slides into and read the measurement. on one side are ga. sizes the other side decimal equivilents. Comes in real handy when match ga.s and checking a piece of stock or sorting thru a fab shop's drops for usable pieces.

 

measured my original bed sides and they were 14 guage, my new box i`m building is made of 16 guage material

 

Thanks for the info.I'm going to try and build the front panel for my truck myself.Then cut out the center of my running boards and weld in flat steel.I'm going to weld the bolts on the back side for a smooth look (I hope).I''ll post some pics if I can get the wife to take some for me.
ART

 

can`t wait to see your running boards!!, there my next project after finishing my box! i`m building them from scratch to match my wider rear fenders, either raising them or building the back of them taller to elliminate the rubber skirting under the cab and building an exhaust cut out.

 

I'd make the running boards out of 12 ga if you are going with smoothies. Without ribbing, they will be like a trampoline, even with some stiffeners on the back (which are what catches mud and water and causes them to rust out so efficiently, BTW). I used 1/8" checker plate and that was the minimum to get stiffness required IMO.

Also the bolts are carriage bolts so I don't think welding the nuts (to the r.b. supports) will work out, unless you go to button-heads or something.

 

I agree that 12ga would be the very minimum I'd use for smooth running boards, my choice would be 10ga. Weld them in VERY slowly, no more than 1/2" at a time and no more than 1 weld per side before completely air cooling until cool to the touch. If you rush it, you will end up with "pillows" rather than flat tops due to shrinkage around the edge. Hint: to reduce the metal finishing required and possibility of grinder gouging the finished surface weld from the back side rather than the front so the majority of the bead is underneath the board when finished. Remember you don't want to need body filler to smooth off the top surface since stepping on it will soon show wear marks in the softer putty.