I understand that installing discs (even manual) is the best upgrade you can install on the 64 f100. However, I was woundering if annyone has put a plain old powerbooster W/ a proportioning valve in and noticed good results?

BTW- Thanks for the guys that tossed in on my gear ratio question. I belive a set of 3.70s are in order.

 

The booster would help with pedal pressure, but it will not reduce the drum brake tendency to fade under hard or prolonged use. They will serve you well IF they are in top notch condition and you know the limitations.
JMO

 

Why would you put a proportioning vavle on with just a booster????

 

A Stock proportional valve is to reduce the brake fluid pressure to the rear wheels in a front disc brake application only. Its purpose is to prevent the rear wheels from locking up before the front discs under heavy braking by regulating the pressure. It does not regulate this under normal braking.

Drum drum or Disc Disc applications require no valve. You can add a bias (commonly called a prop valve but it is not) valve to adjust the braking pressure fore and aft like a wilwood valve. Note that this valve unlike the stock one regulates the pressure at all times.

The power booster merely makes easier to the user, by assisting the pedal force on the master cylinder by using A vacuum chamber. It provides an easy pedal feel to the leverage. It does not add any more or less leverage. That is dictated by pedal length and fulcrum point. It is so a 90 pound pencil leg can have the same brake actuation power as a 300 pound power lifter.

I have a 79 raised lever type power booster on my 64 with The stock drum brakes. It is an improvement over stock non boosted but is still a little hairy in freeway traffic and sudden stops. you can stop once hard but don't try it again soon.



Above is a shot of it on the far right of the picture

Garbz

 

Sorry I ment to state a divided master cylinder, not proportioning valve.
The power brakes would help but a set of discs is still king. I'll have to stick em on the budget.

 

Dual master cylinder is a huge upgrade over a single pot. Not that it will making braking easier but you know even if you have a leak in one of the wheel cylinders you will still stop. Also if you are going to upgrade to a power booster take a close look at your rubber lines. If it pulls to one side at all it will get worse. Typically the exterior of the rubber lines looks fine but the inside is swollen and almost sealed shut. Just a quick thing to think about...

 

Sorry Dave, Ford dis-agrees with you.

When Ford went to dual master cylinders in 1967, EVERY car, Bronco, Econoline and F100/600, disc brakes....or not, uses a proportioning valve (Officially: Brake Differential Proportioning Valve).

So it wasn't just used with front disc brakes, as you can see by these examples.

1967 F100/250 2WD, F350: C7TZ2B257B

1968/72 F100/250 2WD; F350: C8TZ2B257D // Use with drum brakes.

1968/72 F250/350: C8TZ2B257G // Use with disc brakes.

These are the 1967/72 F100/350 2WD examples, there are 4 more used with 4WD's, two more used on F500/600's.

Besides the proportionng valve used on 1968/72 F250/350's with discs, a metering valve is also required (C8TZ2B161A).

 

The prop valve causes more pressure to be applied to the front brakes, and less to the rear...under many braking situations, the rear brakes can lock up because of the lack of weight on the wheels...more weight on front, they can apply harder and not lock up.
If you are gonna go power brakes and dual master cylinder, def need a valve of some sort. You would prolly be best served with an aftermarket adjustable valve, since drum/drum and disc/drum would need different valving. If you do go disc, you can just adjust the valve, instead of replacing the valve.

ROb

 

The drum brake applications with dual master cylinder use a distribution block or H block. Straight in and straight out. Early front disk units used the H block and only had a residule check valve going to the rear brakes. Just for grins, I might hook up a pressure gauge to front and rears on a few older vehicles, just to see if they are actually proportioned front to rear or just have a built in residule check valve.

 

Who was it again that is the manufacturer of these disc conversions?
I know everyone is selling them. But would rather go straight to the source.