Just finished reading this thread. Was linked to it from a post I made in another forum. Great info!

 

By the way, where is the most reputable place to purchase one of the magnefine filters or one of the magnafine filters sold under another name?

 

I buy them direct.... magnefinefilters.com.

 

Hi all, well I just did a couple hours under the hood and have some good info. First I put both front wheels off the ground. Then used the turkey baster to lower the fluid level, the baster I had was the perfect length that I could get all it could reach and it was below the return lines. The pic bismic has showing the power steering resivour(spelling???????????) is the hydroboost line. The posts were correct that there is no flow while engine is running but does flow when the brake pedal is released. I bought 3' of 5/8 id clear tubing(about .78 ft). and got about 2" of 3/8 id clear tubing. I got a bolt that fit tightly inside the 3/8 id and put a hose clamp on it to hold the bolt in the tube. After removing the hydroboost line from the reservior, I put the 5/8 id tube over the stock hydroboost hose and put a clamp on it(it was a hose in a hose, the old heater core bandaid). There is a hole to route the 5/8 id tubing to the ground in front of the driver wheel. I used a 5 gal bucket with a pour spout and the 5/8 tube fit right in. I used the 3/8 id hose with the bolt to plug the resivour. After having the truck running and the wife was pumping the brakes I had to put about a qt a min in. That was working but I wanted more,,,,,,,,,,,,faster, not to mention I wanted to know how the other side flowed. So I put the hydroboost side back together. Then I removed the air filter and took off the hose directly opposite of the hydroboost line (front passenger for reference) and did the same hose in hose deal with the 3/8 hose as the plug. This is where it got interesting. This is not something that should be done alone. While I was watching, I had the wife start the truck(after reinstalling the air box),,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Holy crap, about 3 seconds and I was telling her to shut it off. It didnt suck air, but the reservior(finally looked up the spelling lol) was loooowwww. After just 3 seconds it sucked about a qt. Well I figured that is the flow I wanted to flush it properly. However, it is a much more manageable flow to turn the wheel while the engine is off(hence the front of the truck being in the air). I used 6 quarts for the flush and a seventh one for topping off after reassembling everything. I also had the wife turn the wheel while I had a light shining into the reservior and used the flushing to lower the fluid lever to take the plug out and reinstall the stock line. It draws fluid quite a bit below the return line fittings. (I got pretty quick at removing the air box in the past few years. For those that dont know, you loosen the first big hose clamp past the air filter, unhook the mass air flow sensor, pull the entire air filter reminder out of the airbotwisting works great) and remove the small coolant line from the degas bottle, then you have to watch the nipple that the maf sensor wire hooks to cause it barely clears the degas bottle but does clear without loosening the degas bottle, most prob just loosen the two 8mm bolts holding the degas bottle. You have to push the rubber tube off the the hard plastic air box where you loosened the hose clamp and pull the entire assembly towards the windshield a bit, then pull up and towards the passenger side cause the bottom of the air box is a tight fit around the degas bottle. But removing the air box for the steering side of the reservior isnt a big deal cause it isnt needed to be on if you just turn the wheel without the truck running. I just wanted to see how much it flowed while running which is why I reinstalled it then removed it,,,,,) Long freakin parenthesis huh.. I just thought I would post this info, hopefully someone gets something from it. I just threw in the air box removal cause I rememer when the 6.0 was new to me and I used to fight that darn air filter cussin and screamin.

 

Oh yeah, sorry guys for the lack of pics, I need to remember to take pics while working but I have a bad habit of trying to get it knocked out. I know how much I like seeing pics of all of your projects. I will get some on the next project.

 

Sounds like you really flushed it well.

The key is to constantly be turning the steering wheels to properly flush the steering rack.

Did you install the inline Magnafine filter when done with the flush?

 

I wish I had one of those filters. However I am chasing a spuratic power brake and steering loss. Once I get the issue resolved, then I will get it on there. I am starting with the flush and if it doesnt work, I will try and find a check valve that I have heard about, if that still doesnt work then I will do the hydroboost then the pump. Im gonna get to the bottom of this issue dangit!!!!!!!!!!! Freakin scary to come off the istate and go to hit the brakes,,,,,,,,,,,,,nothing, then try to turn,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,nothing. The power loss only happens for about 3 seconds max (currently) but I really dont want to wait for it to get worse. I have been saying for a while "I dare this truck to break, cause I will pull over, get out the tools, and fix it right here." Its been a long time since I have had a prob that I didnt know what it is. I have a post on here looking for an answer to my prob but noone has had this exact issue. Does anyone else had the snap on radkitplus tool? That thing is awesome. I normally use it for the coolant flush and fill, but it worked great to apply a bit of vacuum to the ps reservior while truning the wheel and applying the brakes trying to purge the system. Sorry for bouncing around. I just like talking "shop" about the 6.0 (or my truck at least)lol. Btw, just finished my 400k service, (rear diff, transfer case, trans, coolant, and ps fluid). My babys happy.

 

I think being in the elusive 400k club is awesome!! That thing has the original longblock in it?

 

If you get to that point, I would do the pump first. The pump will affect both systems sooner than the hydroboost in my way of thinking.

 

Great, I will do the pump first. makes sense. and it is the original block, turbo, and 4 injectors are original also. Thats freakin crazy huh. I am a maintenance junkie tho, I change the oil about every 5 to 7 days. Fuel filters every other week.

 

I was going to take my truck in this winter and have the dealer flush the power steering and brake systems... after reading this, I think I'll do the PS system myself and add in the filter.

For those of you who have done it and have had it on for a while, which line do you think is the best? The brake booster, or the steering box line?

 

I agree, 441k is crazy! Maintenance works, your truck is proof positive!

Had to have a clutch in there somewhere, I am sure?

 

well, sorry to disappoint but, negative on the clutch. Its still stock. Might blow ur mind to find out that I am still on the stock brake pads also. I am amazed about the brakes. They did get hot and are a bit glazed and squeek a little. I have sanded off the front passenger glazing and havent gotten around to the driver side yet. They still have about 1/2 inch left on em. I have replaced the trailer brake controller though. My last truck lost the tbc at the same time the new one did. I am convinced they only last for about 185k of use. They both went out at 370k. I use the tbc as my service brake while towing and the pedal is only in case of emergency, of course the manual trans helps braking also. I think I need to change the glow plugs and possibly the icp sensor. She starts pretty rough. But my line of work allows me to average about 4 or 5 cold starts on each oil change. There have been many times that my truck has ran 24/7 for weeks and only shutting it off to change the oil. She's a trooper.

 

I agree, I don't think a TorqShift truck would ever do that, utilizing the TBC much of the time or not. I am pretty amazed at the clutch, you obviously drive the truck with care, especially considering you drag a trailer around quite a bit apparently. That is the highest mileage OE clutch I have ever heard about on a 6.0, bar none.

 

I have an idea about shifting. I only use the clutch to put the truck into a gear. Kinda like a big truck, I feather the throttle before upshifting allowing me to take it out of gear without using the clutch. Then after the tension is freed up I push in the clutch and complete the upshift. I only push in on the clutch while the shifter is in neutral. It makes for some very smooth shifting. Teaching the wife how to pull it out of gear without pushing the clutch without causing a major clunk,,,,,, I'm still within on that. Lol