Hey all,
I need to replace 2 of the 8 wheel studs/lugs from the passenger side hub. I removed the center cap and the center nut, then the washer and outside wheel bearing but the hub will still not come off. It seems loose but wont pull, twist or rock off. If i remove the hub will the drum brakes stay where they are or am i going to have parts flying all over the place?Any help on this would be great.

Also, How hard is it to replace the two lugs? Should i just replace all 16 in the front while i have the wheels off or is it better to just leave them? One more thing, Where would i find the replacement lugs?

Thanks in advance,

Alec

 

The brakes will stay together when you take the drum off. Around on the inside near the bottom should be a little oblong shaped access hole. This is to adjust the drum brakes tighter or looser. Typically you need to adjust this with a flathead screwdriver. You stick the screwdriver in and engage a wheel with tabs sticking off it all the way around the outside of it. You need to turn the wheel up or down a few clicks to loosen it so you can remove the drum. Sorry hard to describe this process LOL. Do an internet search for drum brake replacement and you will likely fidn some pictures.

I would take the drums to a tire shop and they can replace the lugs for typically a few bugs a lug. Probably best to do them all at once as the ones on now are likely 60 years old.

 

Hi 53Olderthanme I just checked out your progress site, you got that 53 looking pretty good. How much backspacing is on your cragars. See you are a Cowboy fan. My two older sons are die hard Cowboy fans.

 

48' fordster is working on a F-3 which has a different brake system than the F-100. The brakes on a F-2/F-3 are adjusted by turning the two cam adjusters on the back of the backing plate,toward the bottom at the roughly 5&7 O'Clock positions. If your brakes haven't been off in a long time you may have to adjust the brake shoes in to allow the shoes to clear a lip that might have formed on the outer edge of the drum.

 

Hi Alec,

If the other studs are ok then there's no reason to replace them. But I have to ask you if two have failed, do you think the others are close too? I'd check them closely.

You should be able to get the lugs at NAPA. Be sure to take th eold ones with you to compare.

 

Thank you all for the info... once i found out how to adjust/loosen the brake pads it was a 5 minute job. I am just going to take the drum to a local shop and see how much they are going to charge me to get it done. I trust the work I do on my trucks but this is one thing I want to know is going to be done right. one more question... what would be the best way to clean the drum and inner braking surface? Since it is apart should i just replace the brake pads now or wait till they get down to almost nothing? and also how big of a job is it replacing brake pads time wise and how easy is it really?

Sorry for the 20 questions just want to make sure i am doing it all right. And thanks again for all your valuable info thus far.

 

I highly recommend that if you have any concerns about the wear of your brakes replace them. The one big snag you're going to run into is you will not be able to find a set of replacement shoes for your truck, new or rebuilt. You will have to have the shoes you have relined. That is why I won't screw around with any questionable brakes. Once the shoes wear enough to dig into your drums you're going to have an extremely hare time finding shoes, especially drums. I wouldn't have the drums turned down either, unless they're in really rough shape. Most likely they've been turned down a few times in the last 50+ years and might be close to the allowable tolerances. If you have any questions have them checked by a good automotive machine shop, they will know the tolerances.

NAPA or any good auto parts store should be able to get you the parts you need, wheel cylinders, master cylinder and brake hoses. If not contact Job Lot Auto, JobLot Automotive, they carry everything except drums and shoes. Also, they should be able to either get your shoes relined or direct you to a place that can do it. I have found it cheaper to take them myself, the auto parts place will add cost to the relining to cover their handling of the parts.

As for cleaning the brakes, first use an air hose and shop vac to remove all of the loose stuff. Make sure you use a good dust mask or respirator, remember some brakes contain asbestos, and a lot of other nasty stuff. After you get the loose stuff off get a couple cans of spray brake cleaner and wash the rest off. Place a drip pan under the brakes to catch the dirty cleaner.

One more tip, since you're going to have to remove all of the shoes to have them relined take a few pictures of the brake system before disassembling it so you can see how it all goes back together. When doing a brake job I usually leave one side on while doing the other for reference but you won't have this option.