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Im doing the tank mod (front) and I have some questions:
1.- the new hose from the roll over valve to the filler neck has to be diesel rated? because searching I have seen: clear plastic hose, heather hose, etc.
2.- I suppose that the tank is a close circuit or what ever you call that, right? Is it necesary to have aereation in the tank with the mod? because also I have read that some one uses the same roll over valve with a "T" in the new hose (IIRC Plowhand) and others dont, what is your opinion?.
3.- to do the rear tank is mandatory to down the tank? and do you have to disconnect the harness or anything else?
1. It's best to use diesel rated hose, however i've heard of guys using the clear hose and it holds up for several years.
2. You don't need a aereation in the tank. The hose opening into the filler neck is enough to get rid of the pressure inside the tank when filling.
3. It is easier, IMO, to lift up or even take off the bed of the truck than to drop the tank and do it. Just 6 bolts and disconnect the taillight wiring.
1. It's best to use diesel rated hose, however i've heard of guys using the clear hose and it holds up for several years.
2. You don't need a aereation in the tank. The hose opening into the filler neck is enough to get rid of the pressure inside the tank when filling.
3. It is easier, IMO, to lift up or even take off the bed of the truck than to drop the tank and do it. Just 6 bolts and disconnect the taillight wiring.
Ok, tank you, I have a piece of heather hose, could be it right to use it?
and Im going to think about to take off the bed. do you know the weight of the bed?
1. Use fuel rated hose or hydralic oil rated (not pressure hose, return hose). I used hydralic rated hose from a parts store; sold by the foot. Most fuel supply companies, or anyone that makes high pressure hydralic hoses should have it.
2. Without the rollover valve the tank is a closed system and cannot breath (vent) with the fuel cap on. Here in South GA. it gets hot and a closed tank will build up alot of pressure, I have seen it once blow the fuel cap off and force fuel out the filler neck. I just ran the hose from the barb that you put in the tank up over the frame, cut it and put a "T" in the hose and then ran it on up to the barb in the filler neck. Then I ran a short piece of hose (about 5 inches) along the fender brace and installed the rollover valve (vent) and used cable ties to hold it in place. Others do not put the rollover valve in the new mod and run without it.
3. When you lower the rear tank alittle you can reach over the top of the tank and unplug the wiring harness from the top of the tank. Then you can lower the tank without damaging the wiring. I just used a floor jack and some boards to support the tank and lower it and re-install it. That way you can stop it wherever you want.
Ok, tank you, I have a piece of heather hose, could be it right to use it?
and Im going to think about to take off the bed. do you know the weight of the bed?
don't have any experience with heather hose...
the bed doesn't weigh much at all. I removed the bed from my dually by myself with no assistance. Just need to lift up the side with the fuel doors enough to reach the tanks. Can just prop it up with wood blocks or something
1. Use fuel rated hose or hydralic oil rated (not pressure hose, return hose). I used hydralic rated hose from a parts store; sold by the foot. Most fuel supply companies, or anyone that makes high pressure hydralic hoses should have it.
2. Without the rollover valve the tank is a closed system and cannot breath (vent) with the fuel cap on. Here in South GA. it gets hot and a closed tank will build up alot of pressure, I have seen it once blow the fuel cap off and force fuel out the filler neck. I just ran the hose from the barb that you put in the tank up over the frame, cut it and put a "T" in the hose and then ran it on up to the barb in the filler neck. Then I ran a short piece of hose (about 5 inches) along the fender brace and installed the rollover valve (vent) and used cable ties to hold it in place. Others do not put the rollover valve in the new mod and run without it.
3. When you lower the rear tank alittle you can reach over the top of the tank and unplug the wiring harness from the top of the tank. Then you can lower the tank without damaging the wiring. I just used a floor jack and some boards to support the tank and lower it and re-install it. That way you can stop it wherever you want.
Thank you amigo, I remembered well, who did that .
Originally Posted by mojoman
if I was gonna do all that work I'd get the proper hose for the job...why havta do it over again in a year or 2????
mojo
You are right, Im going to use the proper hose. Thanks
Originally Posted by Brown Falcon
don't have any experience with heather hose...
the bed doesn't weigh much at all. I removed the bed from my dually by myself with no assistance. Just need to lift up the side with the fuel doors enough to reach the tanks. Can just prop it up with wood blocks or something
Ok, thank you too, but maybe Im going to lower the tank, because I have a Shell over the bed, and also dont have assistance. and I have a floor jack
1
2. Without the rollover valve the tank is a closed system and cannot breath (vent) with the fuel cap on. Here in South GA. it gets hot and a closed tank will build up alot of pressure, I have seen it once blow the fuel cap off and force fuel out the filler neck. I just ran the hose from the barb that you put in the tank up over the frame, cut it and put a "T" in the hose and then ran it on up to the barb in the filler neck. Then I ran a short piece of hose (about 5 inches) along the fender brace and installed the rollover valve (vent) and used cable ties to hold it in place. Others do not put the rollover valve in the new mod and run without it.
Help Plow, I cant figured out how do you connect the rollover valve to the short piece of hose (3/4"), the roll over has more diameter than the ID of the hose and seems it cant fit. do you have any pics?
For other part, as I live in the south as you know Im pretty sure is hot and the closed tank will build up alot of pressure, Im conviced that I need the vent, I was thinking to put a vent hose in the new connector in upper part of the filler neck (in the barb fitting) without any rollover valve, what do you think? I hope I explain myself.
Help Plow, I cant figured out how do you connect the rollover valve to the short piece of hose (3/4"), the roll over has more diameter than the ID of the hose and seems it cant fit.
Use a razor knife to shave the lip down on the bottom of the rollover valve (to make it the same diameter from top to bottom). That's what I did, still a tight fit so I used a little grease to help it slide into the hose and them put a clamp on it.
I was thinking to put a vent hose in the new connector in upper part of the filler neck (in the barb fitting) without any rollover valve, what do you think? I hope I explain myself.
I would install the rollover valve. It has a ball inside of it and if fluid (diesel fuel) tries to flow out of it the ball is pushed up and closes off the valve. Without the valve, if you parked on hill sideways with a full tank, fuel could run out of an open vent hose.
Use a razor knife to shave the lip down on the bottom of the rollover valve (to make it the same diameter from top to bottom). That's what I did, still a tight fit so I used a little grease to help it slide into the hose and them put a clamp on it.
I would install the rollover valve. It has a ball inside of it and if fluid (diesel fuel) tries to flow out of it the ball is pushed up and closes off the valve. Without the valve, if you parked on hill sideways with a full tank, fuel could run out of an open vent hose.
Ok, thank you, I understood that and Im going a try it. And I suppose that the roll over valve has to be in a vertical postion, to work the ball, right? or it doesnt matter?