he put down his speck in one of my other post i just have to track it down

 

I would be interested in what an IDI would make with his specs as well. I ran those numbers through the old Turbo Power Calc and I had to estimate a few numbers like Turbo Compressor Efficiency and Engine Volumetric Efficency. I estimated them both high, just to see what it would make in the "IDEAL" conditions, I came up with around 434 HP and 692 FT/LBS of torque. Like I said those are just estimates and probably high. I estimated compressor efficiency at 80% which is probably a little high and I estimated Engine VE at 85% which is probably a little high as well. But, I think that HP estimate is possible with "Ideal" conditions, that doesn't include hp loss due to heat and such (which would lower the VE if I am thinking right) and is a flywheel estimate and does not include drivetrain HP loss.

I just done this for fun and I am not saying that is what he is making or anything but just saying that it is possible under "ideal" conditions. Also without some type of charge cooling I think the additional heat in the intake would drive the VE numbers down resulting in less HP.

 

Add balanced to 5000 RPM.
Subract the 5" stacks, mine are 3".
Add Stage 1 DPS injectors.
Add modified 7.3 turbo IP.
Add 7.3 turbo valves.
Add port matched on the intake and exhaust side of the heads.
Add ARP head studs
Add intake and exhaust studs.
Add insulated exhaust before ther turbo to keep in as much heat as possible to help with boost levels.

Little tricks like how the stacks are turned and how tall they are for best scavenging while driving, and ram air to force feed the turbo with cool air also help.
Forward motion does affect how much power I can make and is reflected in pyrometer readings and smoke color.

That would give you the basic engine spec's.

 

thx dave ur going down

 

I also forgot, I had the cylinders bored 30 over, that was the minimum I could do on all cylinders to get fresh surfaces on the walls.

I wanted 20 over, but a couple of the cylinders still had just a bit of a groove at the TDC point.

Well I found a couple things on line last night that I have been looking for.
Now a couple phone calls to check on CFM flow rates and finalize an install plan.

 

what u taking about dave

 

Secret power plans to stay ahead of the game.

Here is most of what I used, all in one place.

Started by magnafluxing everything to make sure it was good
The mic'ed everything to make sure it was within spec

Cylinders bored 30 over
.040'' milled pistons
Ported and Polished heads
25 psi wastegated ATS turbo
Custom cold ram air intake
Balanced to 5000 RPM
3" stacks
3" downpipe
No muffler
Stage 1 DPS injectors
Modified 7.3 turbo IP, a few extra tweaks while it was on the setup bench at the local IP shop.
7.3 turbo valves
7.3 rockers
Port matched on the intake and exhaust side of the heads
ARP head studs
Intake and exhaust studs
Add insulated exhaust before the turbo to keep in as much heat as possible to help with boost levels
Fel-Pro gaskets
Most of the internal parts were Sealed Power

That would give you the basic engine spec's.

Little tricks like how the stacks are turned and how tall they are for best scavenging while driving, and ram air to force feed the turbo with cool air also help.
Forward motion does affect how much power I can make and is reflected in pyrometer readings, boost readings and smoke color.

Caution, redneck hillbilly listening to "Dark Side of the Moon" fuzzy logic went into a few of the setup options while I was assembling the engine.
Sammy Hagar's "I can't drive 55" was during the design process.

 

daive lee foth was better

 

You just like "California Girls".

Sammy Hagar was better when he was in Montrose, but that was a long time ago.

I think I listed everything in the post above, I'll add to it if I remember something else.

 

beach boys and yes i do