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If fuel is comming out of the bowl vents, the fuel level in the bowl is too high. This is a fact. There is supposed to be air between the fuel level and the vent inlet.
This could happen due to several reasons.
Needle and seat out of adjustment( try cranking it all the way down)
Cracked float- the float will fill with fuel and sink
Fuel pressure so high, it destroys the needle seal tip, check fuel pressure
Ok, you may have found the problem with your bent pushrods, but (not trying to argue with you) I am having a hard time believing/understanding how cylinder pressure would feed back into the intake and then into the fuel bowl of the carb. Why wouldn't it just bleed out through the throttle butterfly venturis? Good luck with the head removal, let's hope for minimal damage, if any!
when i crank the motor over the buttery flys are closed im not trying to bull**** or argue with you guys i suck at explaining stuff and just trying to fix it i apriciate all help im just totally lost
Well, just about anything is possible. If your fuel pressure is around 5 to 5.5 then that shouldn't be a problem. Maybe it is the cylinder pressure feeding back into the intake and through the carb. Maybe the best thing to do now is concentrate on your bent push rod problem and whatever might be wrong with the cam/valve train and then after it is back together, see what happens.
OK here's my thoughts about this. I hate to keep questioning the camshaft, but here we go.
The differential pressure that is pushing air past the carb ventries and into the intake manifold on a normal running engine, MAY be the same pressure that is coming back up the intake and past the carb ventries again. Causing the fuel to spray out. That's why 2 different carbs will not change things, the problem is below.
In a normal running engine, the intake valve closes when the piston is coming up to produce pressure. If a camshaft is retarded, the valve will close much later than it is suppose to. It would then at this point blow right back into the intake and past the carb as suggested above.
This will also give a very small cranking compression test, most of the air will escaped past the intake valve into the intake. Then it finally closes to give a little compression.
Now I know you said you inspected the cam timing, but it may pay to look at it again, maybe even take the timing chain off and inspect. I have seen a
cam dowel pin shear off in performance situations.
I could very well be wrong, but what do you think???
I think your theory is a good possibility, as you can see from my last post, I'm kind of thinking that the bent pushrods and valvetrain needs looked at first and then see if there is still a carb problem.
ill check this tommarow didnt think of the pin shearing i am running (junk) pro comp gear drive is it also a good idea to change stock springs with running an after market cam i have thought that its was off time thats why i tore the front off after checking like 5 times but know ill check the pin
not real familiar with how you set the rack on your valves but it sounds like you have set them to tight or wrong all toghther---- low compression and blowing thru the carb.-- sounds like the intake valves are staying open.
broke the pin off the of the cam and found the valves hit the pistons gona send my heads out to see how bad the valves are if bad i might put on set of 351c 2v heads