When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
After argueing for over a year with the dealership about issues with my trucking. They kept telling they could'nt find anything. Running short on warranty I went somewhere else. They changed the oil cooler, egr cooler, and egr valve. Thats the 2nd set put on in 3 years. What gives? I would have thought by now they would have a solution by now. I asked what to do to keep the egr system and oil cooler from stopping up and they told theres was"t anything I could.
Would changing to synthic oil help keep the oil cooler from clogging up?
I love my truck. I just want to take the best care of her I can.
Best advice it to drive it like you stole it!! If you baby it, you'll crud it up. If you are in town a lot, drive it in the tow/haul mode. That'll keep the rpm's up anyway.
There is a lot of casting sand left in the block that gets into the coolant. Coolant then flows through the EGR cooler in to the oil cooler. Thus killing them.
There is a lot of casting sand left in the block that gets into the coolant. Coolant then flows through the EGR cooler in to the oil cooler. Thus killing them.
It's not entirely true. The hot coolant flows through the oil cooler first, than the EGR cooler. The casting sand clogs up the passages in the oil cooler, and the flow will slow down in the EGR cooler. Because of the slow flow, the hot exhaust gas boils the coolant, and that kills the welding in the EGR cooler.
The oil has nothing to do with the oil cooler failure, but just like it was mentioned, get a coolant filter, and you have a better chance not facing oil cooler/Egr cooler problems....
It's not entirely true. The hot coolant flows through the oil cooler first, than the EGR cooler. The casting sand clogs up the passages in the oil cooler, and the flow will slow down in the EGR cooler. Because of the slow flow, the hot exhaust gas boils the coolant, and that kills the welding in the EGR cooler.
The oil has nothing to do with the oil cooler failure, but just like it was mentioned, get a coolant filter, and you have a better chance not facing oil cooler/Egr cooler problems....
And over how many years/ 10's of thousands of miles does this happen? I am also curious on how the steam kills the weld?
And over how many years/ 10's of thousands of miles does this happen? I am also curious on how the steam kills the weld?
Boiling coolant happens at fairly high temps - doesn't matter whether it is steam, water, or whatever - it is all a skin temperature function in the EGR cooler. The EGR cooler has some soft welds - not your typical pipe welds in steel. It can happen quickly - if you plug your oil cooler quickly. Most folks oil coolers plug slowly over a period of years from what I can gather from the past posts.
I guess I should also say it is a function of how high you get your EGT's when you have little flow of coolant on the water side of the EGR cooler.
I am also curious on how the steam kills the weld?
The steam and the boiling coolant not exactly the same thing.
Water or in this situation coolant always contain air bubbles. They are really tiny, micro-bubbles. As the temperature rises, the pressure also rises in the bubbles, and they expand.
( Just like when you heat-boil water, first you will see air bubbles forming on the bottom and the side of the pot or can. They been there before, but they were so small, you didn't see them. As they reach the top -when the temperature rises - they evaporate. On higher temperature the evaporation is faster ,it acts like little explosions. )
Now imagine the same thing, with way higher temperature in a closed, superheated chamber ( EGR cooler ), and I'm sure we don't need too much imagination to see why can't the EGR cooler welds handle the "steam". Because it's not steam, it's more like continues explosions. The extra pressure from this has to go somewhere ( puking antifreeze from the de-gas bottle ) , and eventually it will destroy the EGR cooler, and pump in to the intake.
It could be mechanical force from "forming and/or collapsing" vapor, but I would bet it is high skin temperature from the fact that low flow on the coolant side can not keep the hot side skin temperature much below the EGT's (1100-1500*F)
The steam and the boiling coolant not exactly the same thing.
Water or in this situation coolant always contain air bubbles. They are really tiny, micro-bubbles. As the temperature rises, the pressure also rises in the bubbles, and they expand.
( Just like when you heat-boil water, first you will see air bubbles forming on the bottom and the side of the pot or can. They been there before, but they were so small, you didn't see them. As they reach the top -when the temperature rises - they evaporate. On higher temperature the evaporation is faster ,it acts like little explosions. )
Now imagine the same thing, with way higher temperature in a closed, superheated chamber ( EGR cooler ), and I'm sure we don't need too much imagination to see why can't the EGR cooler welds handle the "steam". Because it's not steam, it's more like continues explosions. The extra pressure from this has to go somewhere ( puking antifreeze from the de-gas bottle ) , and eventually it will destroy the EGR cooler, and pump in to the intake.
Just curious because nuclear power plants are pumping 1,000 degree steam through welded pipes year in and year out.
Just curious because nuclear power plants are pumping 1,000 degree steam through welded pipes year in and year out.
Clearly the comparison is only theoretical - way different choices of metallurgy, weld materials, and weld inspection programs. Ford clearly could have made a heat exchanger that holds up - they just didn't. Whether they underestimated the thermal stress, physical stress, plugging on the cold side, pH driven corrosion, halide stress corrosion cracking, hydrogen embrittlement, vibration, etc. - really doesn't matter, the design is clearly weak. Our choice is in what to do about it. Tons of folks have verified that their oil coolers plug up on the coolant side. Even Ford states to test the oil cooler when there is an EGR cooler failure. Installing a coolant filter is the simplest preventative measure you can do. After that, installing gauges and watching your EGT's, oil temps, coolant temps, and the EOT/ECT temperature differential are also very beneficial.
I guess I would also add - use the proper coolant and keep it full and fresh (although it is good to 100k). Use only the Gold coolant and do not add any SCA's (supplemental coolant additives).
It's not entirely true. The hot coolant flows through the oil cooler first, than the EGR cooler. The casting sand clogs up the passages in the oil cooler, and the flow will slow down in the EGR cooler. Because of the slow flow, the hot exhaust gas boils the coolant, and that kills the welding in the EGR cooler.
The oil has nothing to do with the oil cooler failure, but just like it was mentioned, get a coolant filter, and you have a better chance not facing oil cooler/Egr cooler problems....
What he said!Rep for you.The EGR has silver solder that isn't ideal at those temps with cavitation happening.
Nuclear Plants at least the PWR reactors have had numerous problems with their steam generators. These are basically a heat exchanger with the Hot radioactive water flowing through lots of small tubes to heat the water on the other side into steam. The Westinghouse E class steam generators have been replaced in almost all of the plants that they were installed in.
Mark thanks for your explaintions. You would think Ford would be doing something about. The 6.0L can leave a bad taste in their mouth for years to come. I Know some guys that had problems with the 6.0L that they got after their 7.3. They had problems and traded them off for chevy and dodge trucks. They just dont trust the new Ford movement. How many more guys have we seen on this boeard trade out as well. Could prove to be bad for the long run.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.