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1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck
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Old Feb 12, 2009 | 10:28 PM
  #31  
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m j
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I am on the hunt for a scanner that can fit this book, 10.25" x 14"
I paid $80 to get this book to my door and plan on spreading the info in it for everyone once I get it digitized
 
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Old Feb 12, 2009 | 10:33 PM
  #32  
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1977f150xlt
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From: London, Ontario Canada
make sure you get in touch with me! i would love to have a digital copy! and i am thinking a local print shop might have the scanner you need? and i am sure they can save it to a thumb drive for you? or sd memory card? i imagine it would be fairly cheap for them to scan your book, since you are not getting any printed copies, just a thought, and make sure you contact me when you have a complete digital version! and what year is this book? is it a year specific?
-Brent
 
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Old Feb 12, 2009 | 10:38 PM
  #33  
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year specific for sure
this one is 1978, covers the trucks from ranchero to the semis
including wiring diagrams, engine dimensions
 
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 01:44 PM
  #34  
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made a photobucket account

 
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 02:44 PM
  #35  
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1977f150xlt
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now that's short!, a box would really have to be cut down to fit! a mini logger box would look really sweet on here, any one else see the logger box thread? it would work well on this short truck, the front axle looks little forward? or is the cab sitting back further?
-Brent
 
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 04:57 PM
  #36  
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Is that the Bronco frame. A logger box would look awsome on that truck. But it would also make a lot of unnecessary wieght if its for boggin
 
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 05:34 PM
  #37  
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bronco frame
rear axle moved back about 2"
front axle moved forward 8"
 
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Old Feb 21, 2009 | 01:35 PM
  #38  
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Are you still leaf sprung in the back? Its hard to tell from the pic. So with your mods you are about 114" wheelbase? Looks good!
 
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Old Feb 21, 2009 | 02:26 PM
  #39  
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m j
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single triangulated 4 link, front and back
the coilovers are not in it yet as I needed a cab to determine where the cage was going to be.

 
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Old Feb 21, 2009 | 03:30 PM
  #40  
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Looks good! So you will need a panhard bar with this setup? I like to see some more pics if you have got them. I see you are using the transmission cross-member for the front lower mounts. I am trying to design a bolt in transmission cross-member that will be easier to remove then the horride factory one. Its strong and it gets the job done but removing it is a PITA! Also removing the trans pan can be a chore. Lookd like you are running a manual box though. I am still using the factory arms (with the C wedges) and the mounts that tie into the cross-member so I have to work that part out. Hopefully get a Cage kit which would move the mounts back and away from the cross-member.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2009 | 12:52 AM
  #41  
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Pictures by mjmillar - Photobucket
just pics of the body swap and a few extras since last weekend

no panhard, the triangulated lowers locate it.

the trans crossmember isnt meant to be removed IMO
it is bad enough with the body off I cant imagine trying with the body on the frame

you dont have to spend the $$ at cage to extend the arms, but no matter how you do it the mounts should be tied into both framerails and also grab the top and bottom beams of the rail like the factory crossmember does
the frame is very thin and flexible so best to attach things the way the factory did
 
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Old Feb 22, 2009 | 07:52 AM
  #42  
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Ok I see your lower links better now. No panhard.

I agree with the idea that the transmission cross-member really shouldn't be removed but what choice do you have if you need to RR the transmission? Remove the motor and then the transmission? Ouch! What I plan to make is still going to tie the upper and lower parts of the frame like you are suggestioning. It will have a section that can be removed easier then the factory piece. Its still on paper though so its anyone's guess if I will manage to make it!

I see you had to move the alternator to make room for the turbo. Are you using the factory AC mount somehow?

Alec
 
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Old Feb 22, 2009 | 11:25 AM
  #43  
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alternator issue has not been solved.
I just do not want any electrical near the hot turbo.
I do not think it will work where it is mocked up
 
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