New locker
i'm guessing its in the stock 8.8 on your truck....so here it goes...
put rear axle up on jack stands
take off rear diff cover (drain all gear lube out)
rotate ring gear until you find the small bolt going into the carrier from the right side....
remove bolt and push out cross pin.....
push in axles from outside......(1/4 inch or so)
remove c-clips...
pull axles out 1-2 inches
remove old side gears and shims...
install new powertrax using their directions for setup
put diff cover back on
fill with lube
go wheelin....
put rear axle up on jack stands
take off rear diff cover (drain all gear lube out)
rotate ring gear until you find the small bolt going into the carrier from the right side....
remove bolt and push out cross pin.....
push in axles from outside......(1/4 inch or so)
remove c-clips...
pull axles out 1-2 inches
remove old side gears and shims...
install new powertrax using their directions for setup
put diff cover back on
fill with lube
go wheelin....
You'll need a press to install the carrier bearings on the new locker, puller if you plan on reusing the old bearings (get new ones), and a dial indicator with magnetic base to check backlash.
Nope....powertrax locker installs in the original carrier so there is no carrier or bearing or backlash adjustment needed...
Tools needed....
1. Socket set with 1/2 socket (pretty sure thats the cover bolts...they maybe 7/16)
2. Socket for removing the cross pin bolt...(1/4 -5/16)
3. magnet and long needle nose pliers to get the c-clips out
4. Gasket scraper or razor blade to clean off the cover and diff mating surfaces
Oh...and i might mention, i've done it without removing the wheels and drums and just pulling the axles in and out just a small amount...but you do run the risk of gear lube running down onto your brakes...so it might be a good idea to pull the wheels and drums off before pulling the axles....
Tools needed....
1. Socket set with 1/2 socket (pretty sure thats the cover bolts...they maybe 7/16)
2. Socket for removing the cross pin bolt...(1/4 -5/16)
3. magnet and long needle nose pliers to get the c-clips out
4. Gasket scraper or razor blade to clean off the cover and diff mating surfaces
Oh...and i might mention, i've done it without removing the wheels and drums and just pulling the axles in and out just a small amount...but you do run the risk of gear lube running down onto your brakes...so it might be a good idea to pull the wheels and drums off before pulling the axles....
You "may" need to take out the carrier. I have a lockrite in my D60 and I ended up pulling out everything because I had to take the ring gear off to get the pin out.
Make sure that you keep the bearing caps oriented the way there were originally when you reinstall it. Also, you should have a torque wrench for the ring gear bolts and bearing cap bolts.
It really is easy, though.
Make sure that you keep the bearing caps oriented the way there were originally when you reinstall it. Also, you should have a torque wrench for the ring gear bolts and bearing cap bolts.
It really is easy, though.
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On a 8.8 you shouldn't need to pull the carrier....BUT if you do....ITS CRITICAL that you make sure the shims on each side of the carrier bearings don't get put in the wrong side.....YOU ABSOLUTELY have to make sure they're kept in order...on the right side of the carrier...with all the bearing components in the right order.....
But again...you should be able to do it without pulling the carrier...
But again...you should be able to do it without pulling the carrier...
Which one did you get? The lockrite or the no-slip? I put a no slip in mine, it was a pretty simple install. The instructions covered it fairly well. Had it installed for a couple years and have been happy with it so far.
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