ohm subwoofer question

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Jan 25, 2009 | 06:00 PM

78'fordtruckguy

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From: youngstown, ohio

ohm subwoofer question

hey all, im installing a new system in my 04 f-250 crew cab. this isnt my first time installing one, but i always had two subs instead of one like im puttin in this truck. i have a 4000watt lanzar two channel amp to power the one sub im putting in. im looking at the hifonics olympus 12'' sub with an rms of 2400 watts. well the question is do i get the dual 2ohm so it can be wired to 4ohms bridged at my amp? they also make a dual 4ohm sub of the same speaker but that would mean it would be bridged down to a 2ohm load to the amp, and the amp is 2ohm stereo stable not bridged. the amp specs say it can go up to 4000watts 4ohm bridged, so bridging it at 4ohms i will get the most power out of it correct? so i guess the question im askin, what ohm sub will i get the most power out of a 2 channel amp? thanks!--ryan

Jan 25, 2009 | 07:05 PM

Tecman

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well actually as you decrease the ohm load you increase the power so to speak. But if you have an amp capable of 4000 watts into a 4ohm load and the sub is 2400 watts the nI would go with the dual 2 ohm sub and wire it up as a 4ohm load into the amp.

Jan 25, 2009 | 08:21 PM

mtondreo

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From: Pinellas Park, FL

What Tecman said - dual 2ohm run in series and put a 4ohm resistance on the amp. You try and run the coils in parallel and drop it to one ohm, but chances are the amp will pop fuses if you start to hammer on it. My amp is 4ohm bridged stable and i run it a 2 ohms but it will heat up and shut off if I drive it hard. On my older systems I went to circuit breakers instead of fuses up front because I always popped the fuses. But, in summary, if you run it the way you are supposed to, should be no problems. I hope you are running at least 4 gauge in to the amp, and you should probably consider putting at least a half farad cap on that amp alone.

Jan 25, 2009 | 09:35 PM

78'fordtruckguy

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From: youngstown, ohio

the amp specs are....2x1000w rms at 4 ohms, 2x2000w max at 4 ohms, 1x4000w max at 4 ohms bridged, 2x1650w at 2ohms rms. 2ohm stereo stable.

so im thinkin if i get the dual 2ohm subwoofer, i can wire to 4ohms which my amp could handle easily. if i went with a dual 4 ohm sub, then it would be wired to 2ohms at the amp (bridged) and i'd be popping fuses left and right. unless i wired it to just one of the two channels, but it would be more powerful bridging the amp at 4ohms, then at 2ohms on one channel.

btw, im using a 10 farad cap for the amp and 4 gauge wire.

Jan 25, 2009 | 09:41 PM

Tecman

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From: NW Burbs of Illinois

Well max ratings are very different from RMS ratings but I still thik you should fine with that setup the way we mentioned earlier. BTW, thats a rediculous amount of power and subbage! Im happy with my little JL 500/1 and 2 6.5" subs

Jan 25, 2009 | 09:54 PM

78'fordtruckguy

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From: youngstown, ohio

ha ha yeah, i suppose it is a little over kill. but it sounds good! im tryin the one single expensive a** sub idea, instead of two just alright subs. im thinkin you get what you pay for, so hopefully im right buying a 350 dollar sub. but recently im thinkin i've gone off the deep end,i guess so does my girlfriend

Jan 27, 2009 | 11:14 AM

freeman666

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From: Oregon

Hehe I did the same thing I coulda just replaced the sub amp and I ended up with 2 12's a whole new front stage and a headunit lol...

Doesn't a dual coil 2ohm sub wire down to a 1 ohm load not a 4 ohm or am I confused?

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Jan 27, 2009 | 02:52 PM

ReAX

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From: Central Florida

In parallel, the 2ohm DVC will show a 1 ohm resistance. In series, the same speaker will be 4 ohm. Basically, the DVC is two speakers in one package. Depending on how you wire them together, you have more options the load.

Jan 27, 2009 | 03:59 PM

#10

78'fordtruckguy

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From: youngstown, ohio

its the 4000watt lanzar vibe amp, two channel. welp i ordered the 2ohm hifonics olympus 12'' sub. i dont know if im ready for a 2400rms sub blasting behind me! i take that back....oh yes i am! lol im gonna wire it so i can run 4ohm bridged at the amp.

Jan 27, 2009 | 06:16 PM

#11

Don S.

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From: Washington state

Quote:

Originally Posted by 78'fordtruckguy

I am sorry I am not trying to be mean but your throwing money at Junk. Your buying equipment based off of bloated numbers.

2400 Watts, and it's fused with 2 40A fuses? Heck even the old JBL BP1200.1 which usually hit about 1300Watts and that used 3 40A fuses.

Even at 2400 watts and 100% efficency running at 14.4V, it would require 167 Amps of current. Seeing that the amp is a class A/B amp, I highly doubt that it's even a 1200 Watt amp.

I have a true 1200 Watt amp and that is fused with 2 80A fuses.

While fuse size isn't the way to rate amps, it is a key indicator that what a Manufacture claims and what it really can do.

On to the sub, there are better subs out there than the Hifonics, and quite possibly with a better price, why do I say this?

First off I notice that they don't us a 4 Layer Kapton voice coil former, which is about the standard in most good SPL subs today. 20mm of Linear one-way excursion? Heck lesser subs (Non-SPL oriented sub) are in this realm.

Sorry I just hate to see people spend hard earned money on junk. If you do get it it may sound good, and thats fine just don't be surprised when someone with better equipment comes along and sounds better/louder.

Jan 27, 2009 | 07:34 PM

#12

78'fordtruckguy

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From: youngstown, ohio

im sure there is better subs out there and im sure there are better amps out there. the amp was in my price range and sounded good on two 12''s i previously had. the sub is rated at 2400 watt rms not the amp. who cares if someone comes along with a louder system? im not trying to compete with someone who dumped 5000 grand into a stereo. you get what you pay for, just like with anything in this world. i dont think my 189 buck amp is goin to compete with some big a** mono block. what other sub cheaper than this one is at 2400rms? none. im not buying some over priced JL audio bullcrap, with an rms of 400 for what i bought my 2400rms sub at. your paying for the name. if i get it an it sounds like crap then oh well, i learn from my mistakes. but i highly doubt its gonna sound bad, its not a walmart speaker.

Jan 29, 2009 | 01:22 AM

#13

Don S.

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From: Washington state

Quote:

Originally Posted by 78'fordtruckguy

im sure there is better subs out there and im sure there are better amps out there. the amp was in my price range and sounded good on two 12''s i previously had.

Just wondering what you consider sounds good? I am sure it will make bass. But what are you looking for ina system?

Quote:

Originally Posted by 78'fordtruckguy

the sub is rated at 2400 watt rms not the amp.

I would bet you put a true 2400 Watts to the sub and it will come apart, I would bet half that and it will come apart.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 78'fordtruckguy

Who cares if someone comes along with a louder system? im not trying to compete with someone who dumped 5000 grand into a stereo.

Then just what are you try to get out of this system.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 78'fordtruckguy

You get what you pay for, just like with anything in this world.

Just like before what do you think you get for what you paid?

Quote:

Originally Posted by 78'fordtruckguy

I dont think my 189 buck amp is goin to compete with some big a** mono block.

What do you think being a mono block has to do with it?

Quote:

Originally Posted by 78'fordtruckguy

what other sub cheaper than this one is at 2400rms? none.

None, cause a sub that can actually handle 2400 watts would be cheap and that sub will not handle 2400 Watts.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 78'fordtruckguy

Im not buying some over priced JL audio bullcrap, with an rms of 400 for what i bought my 2400rms sub at your paying for the name.

There is more to car audio than JL Audio.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 78'fordtruckguy

if i get it an it sounds like crap then oh well, i learn from my mistakes.

And your out money. Money that you said you didn't want to spend a lot of.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 78'fordtruckguy

but i highly doubt its gonna sound bad, its not a walmart speaker.

Never said it wouldn't sound bad, I was just mearly telling you that what your were looking at purchasing, isn't what you think it is. But Hey what do I know, I have only been in the car audio and electronics scene since I was 15. Competed in Car audio competitions. I was just trying to offer you some insight.

But, I guess you didn't want it, so with that I bid you good night and good luck on your endevor.

Jan 29, 2009 | 04:05 PM

#14

78'fordtruckguy

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From: youngstown, ohio

yeah thanks but no thanks. i think your too far stuck up your own a** and tootin' your own horn than giving insight to others. have you owned this sub before? probably not. am i gonna enter a sound competition with this system? probably not. it'll be fine for my purpose

Jan 30, 2009 | 12:05 AM

#15

Don S.

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From: Washington state

Quote:

Originally Posted by 78'fordtruckguy

You know what I have pretty well kept what I have civil and not resorted to calling names here. I offer my advice that comes with some experiance, you don't want it? That's fine, all you have to say is "Hey Don, I apprieciate your advice, but I am going with my original plan"

Instead yoyr get rude and snotty like a little 5 year and getting all butt hurt about it. The fact that you can't even figure out what Ohm value DVC sub to get tells me you may some but not much.

While In my past post it may hgave sounded like I was "tooting my own horn" But it was actually just giving you some insight to my experiance and where some of my knowledge comes from. But seeing you got it all figured out and want to play the game of acting like a snot nosed punk that's fine, but I am done with this.

With that said you'll make your other little snide comments after my post, and you can have the last word and look like a big hero, cause You told that guy on a forum he's "Stuck up his *** and tooting his own horn". You go with your bad self e-rambo and a good day to your Sir.