2 ohm stereo stable?
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From: youngstown, ohio
2 ohm stereo stable?
hey all,i have a Lanazar 4000 watt two channel amp that im trying to wire 4 dvc 4 ohm subwoofers too. i found a wiring diagram that says i should wire each pair together then to each channel of the amp at 4 ohms. so 4 ohms per channel, i would like to get them down to a 2 ohm bridged if possible....but im afraid i'll fry my amp that way. is that the only way i can wire them? the amp specs say that its 2 ohm stereo stable which im guessing that means that it can do 2 ohms per channel and not bridged at 2 ohms, correct? i always thought that 4 ohms is a little weaker than 2 ohms. but i'd still be getting around 500 watts per woofer. so any other wiring i can do? thanks --ryan
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From: youngstown, ohio
this is the amplifier i have.
Lanzar VIBE286 Amp: 2-Channel
series parallel? i have heard of series or parallel but never wired together. im learning as i go i guess. i just dont want to make my amp run hot and fry out when i wire it to the subs.
Lanzar VIBE286 Amp: 2-Channel
series parallel? i have heard of series or parallel but never wired together. im learning as i go i guess. i just dont want to make my amp run hot and fry out when i wire it to the subs.
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From: Rio Linda, Ca
It looks like the best you will get with the subs you have it this
* 2 x 1000W RMS at 4 OHMS
2 x 2000W MAX at 4 OHMS
You shouldn't bridge the amp lower then the 4ohm This amp doesn't say it can be ran at a lower ohm load.
* 1 x 4000W MAX at 4 OHMS Bridged
2 x 1650W at 2 OHMS RMS
You can use a wiring wizard form Rockford Fosgate's site to help show you the different ways to wire them up
http://rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/woofer_wizard.asp
* 2 x 1000W RMS at 4 OHMS
2 x 2000W MAX at 4 OHMS
You shouldn't bridge the amp lower then the 4ohm This amp doesn't say it can be ran at a lower ohm load.
* 1 x 4000W MAX at 4 OHMS Bridged
2 x 1650W at 2 OHMS RMS
You can use a wiring wizard form Rockford Fosgate's site to help show you the different ways to wire them up
http://rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/woofer_wizard.asp
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From: youngstown, ohio
thank you bgalaxy, by the way great job on the system your putting in! that amp you have is a God among amplifers. i hope you have a good alarm system on her truck too, if someone saw that thing sitting in a walmart parking lot, it would be gone in seconds!
More Turbo
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From: Washington state
FYI that amp is at most a 500 Watt amp you know. It's rated 200W x 2 @ 2 Ohms Stereo. So maybe 400 to 500 Watts RMS Bridged at 4 Ohms.
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Elder User
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From: Rio Linda, Ca
Each time I have learned what to do and not do. And I add a different level of security to it in hopes of at least slowing down the thieves.
While it's not perfect, it's at least way better then before.
We also have my work truck to roll in if we are going somewhere where it will be sitting for awhile.
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From: Utah County, UT
Lanzar Car Audio
I have a 531, and yes, it probably doesn't meet the 100x4 and 200x1 it states for continuous output. But my guess is it is pretty close.
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Washington state
[quote=cangim;6002517]I am curios to why you state this, here is a link from lanzar website.
Lanzar Car Audio
Look up the RMS power ratings in the PDF link of the owner manual. See it crappy sales tatics of power ratings, and imaginary power ratings that these car audio manufactures use to lure you in to buy their product. That is why there was a big tado about the EIA power rating for amplifiers. You'll notice more respectable name brand manufactures are using EIA ratings next to their amps.
I have a 531, and yes, it probably doesn't meet the 100x4 and 200x1 it states for continuous output. But my guess is it is pretty close.
I'm guessing your amp proibably is close to 4 X 100W + 200W x1. But your amps list as $461, and his Supposid 4000W amp list for $371. This day in age car audio has really has back slided into cheap and downright pathetic tactics to get you hard earned money, buy putting larger than life number on theirequipment just to sell it. I laugh cause I remember when the original Punch 150 cost $539 new. And that was a 150 watt car amp.
Lanzar Car Audio
Look up the RMS power ratings in the PDF link of the owner manual. See it crappy sales tatics of power ratings, and imaginary power ratings that these car audio manufactures use to lure you in to buy their product. That is why there was a big tado about the EIA power rating for amplifiers. You'll notice more respectable name brand manufactures are using EIA ratings next to their amps.
I have a 531, and yes, it probably doesn't meet the 100x4 and 200x1 it states for continuous output. But my guess is it is pretty close.
I'm guessing your amp proibably is close to 4 X 100W + 200W x1. But your amps list as $461, and his Supposid 4000W amp list for $371. This day in age car audio has really has back slided into cheap and downright pathetic tactics to get you hard earned money, buy putting larger than life number on theirequipment just to sell it. I laugh cause I remember when the original Punch 150 cost $539 new. And that was a 150 watt car amp.
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From: Utah County, UT
I was just curious as I too have noticed this. I remember a puch 100 amp that my brother had that is still in use. It seems to hit much harder that several others claiming to be of much more wattage.
More Turbo
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From: Washington state
Today many amps are Highly overrated, which is done to sell more units to the average consumer, that on average isn't all that technically savy. Back in the early 90's many amps were underrated, and even the cheaper lines were by todays standards very good amps. The cheaper lines may have not been underrated, but usally hit their targeted output with some sembilance of clean power. Today in car audio there are alot of amps that are out there just to get your dollar, and not nearly as much R&D behind the product lasting. There is a reason why I have been able to pount the hell out of my JL audio 10W6's (Not the 10W6v.2's nor the AE's) originally bought back in 1996 with my PPI A600 pushing them.
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From: youngstown, ohio
im not sure where your getting the amp is only rated at 200w x2 @ 2 ohm. its 2 x 1000W RMS at 4 OHMS and 2 x 1650W at 2 OHMS RMS. yeah its not the most expensive thing out there but your math is way off man. you dont always get what you pay for, you look at JL audio subwoofers and the cheapest stuff they have is only rated at 150w rms. and their still double the price of kicker, lanzar, power acoustic, etc. sure every brand has a cheap line of stuff, but as does JL.
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Washington state
im not sure where your getting the amp is only rated at 200w x2 @ 2 ohm. its 2 x 1000W RMS at 4 OHMS and 2 x 1650W at 2 OHMS RMS. yeah its not the most expensive thing out there but your math is way off man. you dont always get what you pay for, you look at JL audio subwoofers and the cheapest stuff they have is only rated at 150w rms. and their still double the price of kicker, lanzar, power acoustic, etc. sure every brand has a cheap line of stuff, but as does JL.
I did make a mistake looking at the SPecs. I was looking at the 256, But the 286 only does 2x300W @ 4 Ohms, and 2x450W @ 2 ohms. My bad on that, But my math is still solid, because in the field of electronics the math hasn't changed in years, No one has yet proved Ohm and Watts' Law different.
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From: Rio Linda, Ca
I did make a mistake looking at the SPecs. I was looking at the 256, But the 286 only does 2x300W @ 4 Ohms, and 2x450W @ 2 ohms. My bad on that, But my math is still solid, because in the field of electronics the math hasn't changed in years, No one has yet proved Ohm and Watts' Law different.
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