New Head Unit Install Issue
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New Head Unit Install Issue
Hello,
Last night I installed a new Sony CDX-GT330 head unit in my new 93 Aerostar (replaced stock unit) and sound comes out all speakers, fade and balance work properly, etc. The issue I see is that if I turn the volume up to a semi-quiet to normal listening volume, everything is clear; if I turn the volume up even a click or two higher, all the speakers get extremely distorted. Keep in mind this is not anywhere near what anyone would consider a loud volume and it goes from totally clear to totally distorted from only a point or two louder, which is not a big volume difference.
I read two things in a different thread:
1) Most Aerostars have a factory amp. If this is the case, where is it located and how do I bypass it as I'm sure this would be why the sound is distorting once it hits a certain volume? I don't believe it's any kind of premium sound system in this van but I can post a pic of the stock unit if it helps.
2) Don't use the factory speaker cables; run your own. Why is this? What gauge is recommended? And does anyone have any advice on how/where to run the cables? I've never run new speaker wiring before.
Thanks for your help!
Joe
PS - the electronic AWD in this van kicks *** in the snow.
Last night I installed a new Sony CDX-GT330 head unit in my new 93 Aerostar (replaced stock unit) and sound comes out all speakers, fade and balance work properly, etc. The issue I see is that if I turn the volume up to a semi-quiet to normal listening volume, everything is clear; if I turn the volume up even a click or two higher, all the speakers get extremely distorted. Keep in mind this is not anywhere near what anyone would consider a loud volume and it goes from totally clear to totally distorted from only a point or two louder, which is not a big volume difference.
I read two things in a different thread:
1) Most Aerostars have a factory amp. If this is the case, where is it located and how do I bypass it as I'm sure this would be why the sound is distorting once it hits a certain volume? I don't believe it's any kind of premium sound system in this van but I can post a pic of the stock unit if it helps.
2) Don't use the factory speaker cables; run your own. Why is this? What gauge is recommended? And does anyone have any advice on how/where to run the cables? I've never run new speaker wiring before.
Thanks for your help!
Joe
PS - the electronic AWD in this van kicks *** in the snow.
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Thanks for the response! Would you mind running through a brief description of exactly what you had to rewire and how/where you did so? Was anything left connected to the stock wiring harness or were ALL new wires run from the headunit? Does this van have the "common ground" wiring I've read about? Do I need to run a separate ground for each speaker? Etc?
Thanks for your help! I'll plan on picking up some speaker cable and new speakers. What size speakers fit in your dash, by the way? I know those rears are 6x9 and I probably won't bother with running rear hatch speakers.
Thanks for your help! I'll plan on picking up some speaker cable and new speakers. What size speakers fit in your dash, by the way? I know those rears are 6x9 and I probably won't bother with running rear hatch speakers.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Kiev, Ukraine
newer heads have no common ground. So you need to rewire for every speaker.
a lot of work. really.
About speaker size... let me ask my brother... he is guru.... I remeber that rear speakers are ovals.. No reason to change all speakers. Just change front and rear speakers. Tailgate speakers do not change scene.... Also add speakers into front doors.
There is a good place for ampifier if you have no rear heater ))))
a lot of work. really.
About speaker size... let me ask my brother... he is guru.... I remeber that rear speakers are ovals.. No reason to change all speakers. Just change front and rear speakers. Tailgate speakers do not change scene.... Also add speakers into front doors.
There is a good place for ampifier if you have no rear heater ))))
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Yeah, I don't mind doing some work and am pretty handy with working on cars, but I just don't know much about electronics or stereos so I'm not exactly sure HOW to rewire the speakers. If I had some directions or a walk-through I could do it without issue. I just don't really know how.
Any chance of getting someone to write a walkthrough on what I need to do?
Any chance of getting someone to write a walkthrough on what I need to do?
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,016
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From: SoCal
The reason you need to run at least one new wire to each speaker is because of Ford's common ground in their audio system. Most aftermarket systems have active power on both speaker wires, so you should not ground anything unless it is specifically a ground wire. If you used the factory wires with your new receiver, one side of the amplifier is being grounded, which will cause the problems you mentioned.
I do not have an aftermarket installation, but if I were to get one, I would check out Crutchfield Electronics. They have this nifty configuration guide that you can use to find the parts that go into your car. So for example, they say the speakers in the dash ar 4". I would be careful of what you install into the front doors, as some folks have reported a part of the sheet metal fatiguing and cracking, even without the load of speakers mounted to them.
I would recommend at least 16 guage wires. Running them to the rear doors will require you to either pull up the carpets or pull off one or more of the side panels.
I do not have an aftermarket installation, but if I were to get one, I would check out Crutchfield Electronics. They have this nifty configuration guide that you can use to find the parts that go into your car. So for example, they say the speakers in the dash ar 4". I would be careful of what you install into the front doors, as some folks have reported a part of the sheet metal fatiguing and cracking, even without the load of speakers mounted to them.
I would recommend at least 16 guage wires. Running them to the rear doors will require you to either pull up the carpets or pull off one or more of the side panels.
Former ******
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,901
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From: Salt Lake City, Utah
You may not need to replace the stock speakers, but it is recommended. The parts store speakers are not recommended however, I have found from experience that brand name speaksers such as Kenwood, Kicker, Pioneer, etc, are worth the extra money, avoid Jensen, Roadmaster, or any of your parts store or Walmart brands. Also, whenever possible, use wiring harness adapters. They provide cleaner connections, and it makes so that if you ever need to replace a component, it can be done without having to cut and splice. If you do have to splice, use either crimp connectors designed for audio hookups, or use solder and shrink wrap.
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Post Fiend
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basically you need SHOULD run atleast four new wires (front left, front right, rear left, rear right). you can tap into the factory harness for the hatch speakers, as long as you clip the right channel wires before headphone box. believe it or not the hatch speakers do ad some mid sound for the music which sounds good.
any ways i recommend at least 16g speaker wire. you can run the wires from the head unit under the dash each way (above the steering colum on the drivers side, behind the glove box on the passenger side). remove the four screws holding the carpet floor jams and you can run the wires under those. on the drivers side just tuck the wires under the rear pannels till you get to the speaker. the passenger side you will have to remove the plastic carpet trim around the slider door (the u shaped colored piece that joins the side carpet from the floor carpet). you'll have to fish for the wire, it's kind of difficult but do able. OR you can tap into the passenger side wires on the drivers side, just match color for color.
i replaced my factory 3" hatch speakers w 5.25's. sounds much better. just remove the square grills and cut the hole bigger. hope this helps
any ways i recommend at least 16g speaker wire. you can run the wires from the head unit under the dash each way (above the steering colum on the drivers side, behind the glove box on the passenger side). remove the four screws holding the carpet floor jams and you can run the wires under those. on the drivers side just tuck the wires under the rear pannels till you get to the speaker. the passenger side you will have to remove the plastic carpet trim around the slider door (the u shaped colored piece that joins the side carpet from the floor carpet). you'll have to fish for the wire, it's kind of difficult but do able. OR you can tap into the passenger side wires on the drivers side, just match color for color.
i replaced my factory 3" hatch speakers w 5.25's. sounds much better. just remove the square grills and cut the hole bigger. hope this helps
Former ******
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,901
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From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Oh, and don't expect too much volume from most head units. You can drive 4 speakers ok, but the power of the amplifier gets spread out a lot. On mine, I run a separate amplifier for the rear speakers and the two dash speakers get the power from the head unit. I plan to start running six speakers (the ones in the hatch are currently disconnected), which will require a different amplifier than the one I have (it doesn't have enough channels or power output.) I have the speakers, but running new wire to them is more difficult, so I haven't gotten around to that. I may use the old amplifier for the front speakers.
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: earth
I recommend using Monster Cable speaker wire #12 gauge. The finer the copper strands the better for your high end frequencies. The bigger gauge the less power loss.
I haven't mod my Aero sound system yet so I don't know about its wattage & Ohm spec's. But in general, most expert sound engineers recommend the amp.'s power shoud be 1.5 to 2 times of the total speaker continous RMS capacity at X Ohm; provided that the amp. volumn is not driven all the way up. It should set at half or 60 to 65% max! Give it some headroom for peaks. Otherwise, the amp will blow the speakers. Futhermore, an EQ unit will sweet the sound to the ears.
Hope it helps,
Fordboy49 (Old soundman)
I haven't mod my Aero sound system yet so I don't know about its wattage & Ohm spec's. But in general, most expert sound engineers recommend the amp.'s power shoud be 1.5 to 2 times of the total speaker continous RMS capacity at X Ohm; provided that the amp. volumn is not driven all the way up. It should set at half or 60 to 65% max! Give it some headroom for peaks. Otherwise, the amp will blow the speakers. Futhermore, an EQ unit will sweet the sound to the ears.
Hope it helps,
Fordboy49 (Old soundman)
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 624
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From: Houston, TX
My first Aero was a 90 Extended Eddie Bauer. It had the sound system with the equalizer. I replaced the factory head unit with a Pioneer that I purchased from Crutchfield. The unit came with a wiring adapter. I connected the wires from the new head unit to the plugs provided with the adapter kit and the system performed perfectly. Just my 2 cents worth......
Now on my 94 Jeep Cherokee it's a whole different story........lol
Now on my 94 Jeep Cherokee it's a whole different story........lol
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