I apologize for the fuzzy images, it was starting to get dark. Anyway, thought I would share the results of my sound system.

As many of you already know, the stock sound system found in an Aerostar is terrible, and not entirely for the quality of the stock speakers. The largest flaw in the original system is the common ground speaker wiring. For the stock stereo, this is acceptable, partly because the stock stereos output is so limited, and partly because the stock stereo is designed to work with common ground. However, the common ground design still causes a lot of sound distortion in the system. With an aftermarket head unit, this is made much worse. Most aftermarket systems use inverted waves on the left and right channels. This is done because it maximizes efficiency, and you get more sound for your watt. When inverted phases are used on a common ground, you get even more interference than normal. Sound meant to go to the left front speaker interferes with the signals on all speakers, true of all channels. Aftermarket stereos are intended to have their own clear channels to each speaker, with no grounds shared in common.

While I could have simply run new wires to each speaker, I opted to go all out. I firstly installed larger speakers in the dash. This was for two reasons. One larger speakers can deliver more sound, and can take more power. Second, the previous owner had already ruined the metal dash piece by cutting it so that the tweeters could pop through, from the cheap Alpine speakers he installed (on the stock common ground wiring no less). I replaced them with larger Kenwood Excelon speakers over the top of the dash. I did have to cut new larger holes, and then trim and modify the plastic frame to better match the contours of the dash, but the results look great.





For the head unit, I opted to go with a Kenwood Excelon KDC-X692, which is an older model. I selected this unit years ago because it had good iPod integration, was easy to use, powerful, well featured, and good looking. It also has the AUX input on the back, so no cords dangling around on the front. I used this one on my previous van, so it was just reusing what I already had.

I use an iPhone dock, which allows me to both keep my phone in easy reach, and play my music by just setting it in, instead of fumbling around for the cord. I did not like the location of the Proclip Aerostar mount, so I opted for the more universal gooseneck mount, and placed it where I preferred it.



For me however, the 4x50w channels were not enough to fill a large vehicle with sound, especially a large vehicle that is known for road noise. Furthermore, this van is modified to better suit my work, with a compromise with a 3 seat bench in the mid row, and a divider I constructed just behind it to separate the cargo area from the seating. This prevents my cargo from shifting and sliding under the seats. This however also placed the rear passenger side speaker on the wrong side of the divider. I was never fond of that location anyway, its not even remotely symetrical with the driver side. My van did not have the hatch speakers, which was fine more me as that was to be cargo area anyway.

I replaced the Driver side rear speaker with a Kenwood Excelon 6x9, and installed a speaker box for the passenger side, which neatly fit on the other side of the bench seat.



This gave me a better position for a more balanced sound.

But to me this setup would still not produce the sound levels I desired, nor the correct level of the sound stage. So I installed component tweeters and woofers. The tweeters I installed on the driver and passenger pillars behind the doors. This would raise the sound stage and produce better highs.





and installed the woofers in the doors.





This produced the correct sound balance and raised the potential volume considerably. However, like all high end sound systems, it wouldn't be complete without a good subwoofer. For the sub I selected a box that neatly filled the available space. The box is 48" long x 15" high x 11" deep at its bas and 4" deep at the top" It houses a single 12" Kenwood Excelon sub.



As you can clearly see, running all this equipment requires some serious amplifiers. For the amps I choose to use one Excelon XR-4S for the front channels (dash and door), and a second for the rear. Each amp delivers 150 watts RMS per channel and has 4 channel outputs. The Excelon X1200M mono amp for the sub delivers up to 800 watts RMS. The divider I constructed made an ideal mounting surface.



As you can imagine, this equipment needs a lot of power. To help meet the needs, I installed a 5 farad capacitor. I had also previously installed, for many reasons, a 160 amp 3G alternator. Between the two, I get all the power I need.



All of this is neatly concealed behind the seat.



All the wiring is neatly tied and secured. I used 1/4" plastic hose clamps, like the ones that would be used to secure an icemaker or swamp cooler line, to create attachment points that I could zip tie cable bundles too. This keeps everything neat and tidy and prevents the connections from being pulled loose by their own weight. I did end up having to use some ground loop isolators to cut down alternator noise that the system was picking up.



And what is create sound if it is ruined by noise and vibrations from panels? I installed Roadkill sound deadening in the doors(similar to Dynamat), including the slider, to dampen any vibrations and to keep external road noise out. The results are impressive. It dramatically reduces road noise, and it does effectively cancel and prevent any panel vibrations.

 

So just used a sound pressure level meter to see what kind of output my system can get. I measured a peak of 125 decibels. Just to put that into perspective, a lawn mower at three feet is 105 decibels. Every 3 point increase in decibel rating is roughly double the volume. Anything over 120 decibels is considered "painfully loud", and 124 decibels can cause instant hearing damage.

 

Just what I need...LOL nice job..I've got a lawn mower in the back of mine..

I was young! Before.



Dick

 

i got just the solution to the noise polluters pulling along side my
Aero and hurting my ears with their rap/crap. some are so damn loud, can see the windows move in and out with the bass.

paint ball gun at 5ft out the side window into their rear end.

 

Actually, a 3 dB increase requires a doubling of power, but is on the threshold of human detectability. Doubling the perceived loudness (or volume) requires 10 dB gain, or 10 times the power increase.

 

Think of limiting the high frequencies regarding the total system power of your rig! I'm dealing with Tinnitus since march this year after i spend a night in our session-bunker newly equiped with a Mackie HD1531 sound-system that produces 1800 watt. It's sometimes difficult to controll so much power. High frequencies are crucial to humans ears health - so once again limit the hights.

Greetings

 

The idea is that the system can be loud, it is not a good idea to expose your ears to anything over 100 db for any length of time. The main goal I wanted was to have an excellent system with bragging rights attached. So in other words, I can invite some friend to sit in and then crank it up. When I typically drive, I listen at much lower volumes. It is certainly much fuller and richer sounding than a stock Aerostar, or even an Aerostar with just good speakers installed.

 

Great post and super looking jam system Khan. Not to lecture, but like the others have said, when it comes to your hearing, you don't realize what you have until it's gone. And once it's gone it's gone. Be careful and use the power judiciously. Otherwise, awesome install, that thing would be great at a big field party!

 

Yeah, I have a grandpa who went deaf for occupational reasons. He worked in a stone cutting shop for years without ear protection. He has lost over 80% of his hearing as a result. He has had to have hearing aids for as long as I can remember.

 

Nice work Khan! I think the factory stereo sounds decent for what it is but I am not a picky person with that stuff. I am not sure if my EB version has a better stereo system compared to non-EB versions but as long as all the speakers work I am happy. This is my work van and luxury 'anything' is not an issue.....

However, my next Aerostar (also an EB) will be my ultra-nice daily driver and I have upgrade ideas for that stereo system. In addition to adding tweeters and mid-range speakers like you did I have the thought of placing subwoofers under the front seats inside the brackets. I do not need huge amounts of bass therefore the only size speaker that would fit in those spaces (small-er) would be enough being directly under my body. I would not want the hassle of anything like a speaker box behind the front seats if the need to pull the rear seats for hauling arises.....