Yes... unbolt the bracket and tug. Actually, I would push up from reaching in below which gives you more control over the angle of pressure. Also, when inserting the new tube, do it also from below so you don't risk bending the new tube (just lube the o-ring first and it will sort of snap into position as you pull down into the tube holder.

I would drain a couple gallons down before pulling the dipstick tube out. Mine was already drained before I even began my work, but I know that when I'm two gallons low, the oil is below the end of the dipstick, so if you drain the two gallons, you're more than safe. One gallon might actually be enough, but while you're draining, be conservative.

Better yet, if you're near enough miles where you are ready for an oil change, just let the existing tube stay in place until you're ready to change oil and do the whole job at one time.

 

At normal fill levels, the oil should be below the dipstick tube hole. You should be able to remove and replace it without draining any oil at all. As long as the motor is not running at the time, you should not have any spillage besides whatever drips off the dipstick/tube itself.

 

I agree with Carguy, the normal full level should be below the crank shaft or some serious frothing would be a problem.

 

Thanks for the info. I will attempt to bend it back this weekend since it only costs me time. After that I have to take the purchase order to the boss. I'm not sure how she'll take it since my fan clutch froze up yesterday which I have learned is some heavy pocket change! Dealership wants nearly $400 for one.

 

I hear you on the fan clutch. when I had to replace the one on my Mercedes list price was 450.00. My mechanic told me I was lucky that it was not one of the electronically controlled ones, almost three times the price.

 

I can't complain too much. It's lasted 13 1/2 years and 285K miles which boils down to $30/yr and only 1.4¢ a mile. It's just a lot to shell out in one chunk.