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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 09:50 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Izzy351
I'd run it the correct way. It's designed to handle flow in a certain direction, plus you'll be able to see the junk on the outside of the screen easier. But don't turn yours around -- get a new one. Might be stating the obvious here, but just want to make sure...
Originally Posted by mueckster
Like Joe said^^^^
It may clog quicker. The other way allows for larger particles to sorta 'settle out' instead if going directly into the filter element.

Well crap, thanks guys. It didn't have any indication on the filter of the way it was suppose to flow, so I put it on the way I thought it should go. I will get a new one and install it the correct way.

Can you buy those Baldwins at Autozone or somewhere like that? Or I guess I could just ask for a 3/8 in-line filter rated for diesel fuel?

EDIT: Reps to you Roland, Joe I have to spread it around, sorry.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 10:08 AM
  #17  
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The Baldwin BF7725 has 5/16" inlet/outlets and fits the stock 5/16'' fuel line and fuel pump inlet sizes. I use 5/16" fuel injection hose for the lines and connections 'coming' from the tank to the pump. I have a large spin-on filter for my pre pump filter. I am using a shorter version of this filter, now, for more clearance past the frame.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 10:25 AM
  #18  
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It's been so long since I looked at the fuel line, I forgot what it was. Why am I thinking mine is 3/8ths?? I'll go look at it again, but the Wix version I have of that filter is definitely smaller than the fuel line I have from the tank to the pump. It was the line that came in the ITP kit. I'll look at it when I get home tonight...

Thanks Roland!
 
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 10:35 AM
  #19  
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O'Reilly's has the Wix version #33007, of the Baldwin filter that Robin used. It is 5/16'' also, as stated on the Wix website. O'Reilly Auto Parts - Results for Shopping Search You should be able to get these a Carquest also. They carry the Wix line.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 12:43 PM
  #20  
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I'll check that out... Thanks man!!!
 
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 02:52 PM
  #21  
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Joe how often do you change your in-line filter?
 
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 04:09 PM
  #22  
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When it clogs, or starts to "look dirty". I changed my main fuel filter after 16 months, and it still looked brand new. I guess because the pre-pump one is doing most of the filtering. I kept the old one in case something happens with my current one. It looks that good.

I did check the Baldwin specs, and it a 50 micron filter -- not sure what the one is I'm using, but I'm thinking it's better than that, so it'll clog more often. The Baldwin looks a lot like the mesh in the mixing chamber, so I'm thinking that one will last a lot longer in there. Next time I change it out, I'll put the Wix one in I bought. Unfortunately, it's not clear like the Baldwin...
 
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 10:06 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Izzy351
I did check the Baldwin specs, and it a 50 micron filter -- not sure what the one is I'm using, but I'm thinking it's better than that, so it'll clog more often. The Baldwin looks a lot like the mesh in the mixing chamber, so I'm thinking that one will last a lot longer in there. Next time I change it out, I'll put the Wix one in I bought. Unfortunately, it's not clear like the Baldwin...
I ran the Wix filters for a few years until I installed the big spin-on one last year. I plan to change my spin-on filter every 10,000 miles and the "secondary" one every other time.
Though the plastic is white, you can still see pretty good thru it when it is filled with fuel and you shine a light on it. The fuel seems to make it more transparent. I could always see any particles in the filter. I still have 3 extra one in my parts cabinet of my garage.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 10:10 PM
  #24  
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can anyone tell me a good procedure to pump out the remainder of the fuel in the tank. i have about 1/4 tank. do you connect a 3/8" fuel line to the end of the fuel pump and then cycle with the key??
 
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Old Jan 23, 2009 | 12:17 AM
  #25  
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If it runs, drive it. The way you desribe if fine, but jumpering the FP relay is faster.
 

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Old Jan 23, 2009 | 10:04 AM
  #26  
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alright guys i will keep you filled in on the project and will get some pics up here. well tried driving the truck last night to get some fuel out of it and it ran for about a mile and then just sputtered and died. wouldn't start up had to have my friend tow me home. this morning i picked up a fuel filter at napa. i will not go to autozone anymore. they are IDIOTS. the guy working the computer had absolutely no idea what he was doing. he asked "why do you need it?" and "whats it for?" and "you don't need that" . just give me the DAMN filter. so luckily napa was right down the street ran in there and they found it for me in 30 seconds. I gave them the part number "fram g3" and they crossed it and came up with the NAPA GOLD 3003. this one has the 3/8" openings on both sides and has the clear housing and it was only $4.49. But it didn't come with any clamps so i bought 3 of those and my total was $8something.

Other cross numbers for the Baldwin BF7725 are

WIX 33007
CHAMP OEM BRAND G2978
AZ FILTERS OEM B G2979
BECK ARNLEY OEM 043-0652
 
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 01:13 PM
  #27  
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well got a little bit of work done yesterday. I got the new filter and the new fuel line put on. I needed 9 inches of the 3/8" fuel line but they only sell it by the foot so just got some extra. Some trimming is required but is not hard. threw the new filter on and double clamped it to the metal fuel line and the fuel pump. Sorry my frame is hideous right now...ohio winters...


On the opposite end of the pump, the side closest to the pump, I had to unscrew the fitting that goes into the pump because the fuel line had some type of quick connect that I didn't want to mess with buying. The size of the nut is 16mm. After you take the fitting off a hose line will fit right around the end of the pump and you can put a clamp on there to drain it out.


Here's the garden hose draining into a pan. If you had a full tank I would recommend making a jumping cable and putting it on the fuel pump relay. Luckily, I didn't have very much in the tank and would just use the key manually to pump it out.

Hopefully I'll get started on pulling the tank out today and get a lot done. but its like 20* so i'm not sure if thats going to happen but ill keep you guys updated.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2009 | 02:56 PM
  #28  
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Have an extra car battery? If so, go from the (-) to the frame, and take the (+) to the pump's (+). Be sure to have a line run to a jug that will hold your fuel, and have an extra one ready. I did my Hutch & Harpoon mods in my crappy driveway one night after work. Maybe only 1 gallon or so left in the tank. I drove it to get it that low. Just go do all your errands.

EDIT: Do yourself a favor and take a hair dryer to the joint of the filler neck & hose. It's accessible through your wheelwell, and will be a bugger to get off. I warmed, pried, sprayed WD40, and then repeated that. What a pain!
 
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Old Jan 26, 2009 | 03:26 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by papadelogan
Do yourself a favor and take a hair dryer to the joint of the filler neck & hose. It's accessible through your wheelwell, and will be a bugger to get off. I warmed, pried, sprayed WD40, and then repeated that. What a pain!

I had a lot of trouble with those as well. I pried and pried to no avail. I sprayed some WD-40 and it seemed to help a little. I just tried to move my screwdriver all the way around the hose as best I could and it finally came off. Nice tip with the hair dryer though, I didn't think about that.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 04:49 PM
  #30  
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well got everything back together put fuel in, cycled pump 5 times, fuel bowl filled. won't start. batteries good and charged. i forgot to mention that i had to have the truck towed to my house before doing this mod. I thought this would fix the problem but obviously not. truck cranks good, there is smoke its just kind of hiccuping. sounds like it wants to start but never does. new cps, good batteries, new gpr all recently. what do you guys think??? IPR??
 
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