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5.4 L Starting Problems

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Old Jan 17, 2009 | 01:14 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by redford
Are you sure it's not the fuel pump safety switch? It sure sounds like those symptoms, especially if you hit a curb or a bump while going through a drive-thru. I had one trip on me while loading a boat onto a trailer.

Sometimes they are hard to see, but look again and physically PUSH the indicator down on the switch. If you turn the key on and you do not hear the fuel pump priming the engine, then you should strongly suspect that switch has been tripped. A "no code" no start situation also points strongly to that switch. Most ignition issues will throw a code.
Skip that advice, I'm being an idiot.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2009 | 01:36 PM
  #32  
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I am really curiouse on this one. Love to know what the culprit is
 
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Old Jan 17, 2009 | 01:43 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by 99f350sd
He said the fuel pump was fine. If it won't fire with ether fuel isn't an issue...
not so. when the fuel pump died in my 2000, i tried to fire it on ether.
it did nothing. i actually started thinking it was an ignition problem till i looked at the fuel circuit and found no fuel at all at the schrader valve on the passenger side fuel rail.


after i put the new fuel pump in, it fired rite up and stunk to high heaven of ether out of the exhaust for almost 5 minutes.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2009 | 04:52 PM
  #34  
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I wouldn't go testing for voltage at the TPS unless he had a volt meter. Its 5volts there.
Don't go poking around with a test light just anywhere. The Tps tells the computer what angle the fuel pedal is at also the rate at which it is depressed, whether its W/O or at idle. Sometimes the computer uses the info to squirt extra fuel like the old accel pumps of yester year.



Dick
 
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Old Jan 17, 2009 | 04:54 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by tjc transport
not so. when the fuel pump died in my 2000, i tried to fire it on ether.
it did nothing. i actually started thinking it was an ignition problem till i looked at the fuel circuit and found no fuel at all at the schrader valve on the passenger side fuel rail.


after i put the new fuel pump in, it fired rite up and stunk to high heaven of ether out of the exhaust for almost 5 minutes.
He said he had fuel at the schrader...
 
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Old Jan 17, 2009 | 05:05 PM
  #36  
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Hey guys, just joining in on this thread... i don't know if it will contribute much but have you checked the basics such as air filter, MAF, and for any cracks in the intake tube?

Only reason I suggest this, i was tinkering last summer and forgot to do up the hoses to the valve cover, unmetered air got into the system and actually created a similar problem, it started, I drove it about a mile and as soon as I got to regular idle it died and refused to start. Took me a few minutes but i found problem and she runs like a champ.

With this global warming record high temp winter I don't think it would be unheard of for an intake tube to crack or an airfilter with moisture in it to freeze. If this really doesn't help I'm guessing ignition, i'd use dialectric grease under each COP (that fixed my rough engine/ crappy economy problems about 3 weeks ago) and just check the simple things.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2009 | 05:09 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by 99f350sd
He said he had fuel at the schrader...

yea, i know. i was actually referring to the post about it having to be an ignition problem due to it not firing on ether.

i was trying to point out that on my 2000, it would not fire on ether, even though the ignition system was in perfect working order, so not firing on ether meant nothing.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2009 | 05:12 PM
  #38  
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I wonder why??????????? With no fuel pressure everything else should work?
I'll have to look at a drawing. I don't think there are fuel pressure sensors on 99-2000 trucks...
 
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Old Jan 17, 2009 | 05:15 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by 99f350sd
I wonder why??????????? With no fuel pressure everything else should work?
I'll have to look at a drawing. I don't think there are fuel pressure sensors on 99-2000 trucks...
Just throwing this out there, put a external spark plug in a coil, ground it out and visually make sure there is spark. If you see the spark you know you aint got no ignition trouble, and thats one variable eliminated. If you hang on to the coil pack i promise you wont get hurt... I've seen me do it
 
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Old Jan 17, 2009 | 05:28 PM
  #40  
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sjawelsh hasnt been on here since 9 last night.

I am not a big fan of probing wires alot because it will allow corrosion to start. If you must probe, put liquid electrical tape on the point you inserted the probe.

Sometimes RTV or silicone can also be used.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2009 | 05:58 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Mustang6147
sjawelsh hasnt been on here since 9 last night.

I am not a big fan of probing wires alot because it will allow corrosion to start. If you must probe, put liquid electrical tape on the point you inserted the probe.

Sometimes RTV or silicone can also be used.
I here ya . I never probe just pull off the connectors and check..Plus I usually plunge the point through my finger. Yummy...


Dick
 
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Old Jan 19, 2009 | 05:14 PM
  #42  
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Sorry Guys,
Haven't been on for a bit trying to manage a few things round here and the weather isn't cooperating, damn cold then lots of snow, and I'm in the driveway doing all this.

I do appreciate all the feed back and I'm just trying to set it up so I do it all in the right order.

Just a recap:

Fuel is at the rail, good pressure.

Did the external spark test (coil and plug) no spark.
electrical/ ignition problem?

Talked with buddy at the parts store, he says probably the cam and/or crank sensors also, just a matter of getting to it.

Could the main PCM just quit?

Just a thought because it happened on my '95 Voyager-- Timing Chain?
(easy to figure cause the distributor rotor didn't turn with cranking)

Thanks again for all the feedback, you are a wealth of info.

I will keep posted as she goes.

John
 
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Old Jan 19, 2009 | 05:53 PM
  #43  
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Check for 12v test light at coil connector and inj connector with key on. ground test light to block and probe unplugged connector one wire should be 12v. If both are good then proceed to trigger.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2009 | 05:55 PM
  #44  
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No spark, And no code, Maybe a PCM
 
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Old Jan 19, 2009 | 05:57 PM
  #45  
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Or voltage to pcm..There's a relay that goes to the pcm...
 
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