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Are there post here to tackle this.
Again, if I am pointed in the right direction I can usually get the job done, it's just finding out what to do with what.
Thanks John
You should of course check power. fuses etc as said above. Plus relay's etc.
If you put the truck in a warm garage you could have moisture issue's..
Fuses were checked with light, and the relays were also checked individually.
Each one pulled and connected to + and - and checked for continuity with and without power, all ok
The way it looks now is some kind of a sensor, or wiring problem as you previously said 99f350sd.
Truck is always outside so I don't think condensation is the issue.
Does anyone know where some good wiring diagrams might be so I can try to trace it down myself.
No offense to anyone here, but I always feel the dealerships should take you out to dinner before they do what they do to ya.
I really appreciate all the replies guys,
Thanks
John
With key on you should have 12v on the inj connector on one wire and 12 volts on one wire of the coil connectors..Thats a good place to start. Use a test light.
Pull all fuses and relays and reinsert..
Are you sure it's not the fuel pump safety switch? It sure sounds like those symptoms, especially if you hit a curb or a bump while going through a drive-thru. I had one trip on me while loading a boat onto a trailer.
Sometimes they are hard to see, but look again and physically PUSH the indicator down on the switch. If you turn the key on and you do not hear the fuel pump priming the engine, then you should strongly suspect that switch has been tripped. A "no code" no start situation also points strongly to that switch. Most ignition issues will throw a code.
it could be your fuel pump, my 01 E-350 work van did that one day going to a break down and after the shop had it for a day they tracked it down to the fuel pump. also the knock sensor but i don't think that could be it because Chevy's are know for them going but in gas motors the trucks still run but with limited power. its diesels that stop completely when they go.
From what I read, the fuel pump is working. The fact that the fuel pump is spewing fuel and there is crank and no attempt at ignition says fuel is not the issue. To me this reads as a sensor died or got unplugged somehow. Too sudden to be anything else (once fuel is ruled out). If it was one coil you would have bad running and misfires, not a no-start. Unfortunately I don't know this engine well enough yet. But this was a classic symptom on SHOs (which I DO know well...) - the crank sensor or cam sensor would die and suddenly the car would stop dead. Usually it was the crank sensor due to a failing water pump leaking coolant onto the crank sensor. My point is it really looks like one of those critical to function sensors; cam position, crank position, TPS, etc. If we get input from someone who understands the PCM and what it needs to fire, then they should be able to tell you which sensors can do this. I do not know which they are other than those...
Other possibility - is there an aftermarket alarm system cutting spark or something?
The manual for my 05 shows checking TPS voltage first (pins 1 & 3 the outer ones - should be 4.5-5.5v with TPS disconnected and key on), and then a bunch of other voltages. Basically you are in electrical troublshooting hell. So make sure all connectors are solid (take apart, examine for corrosion, spooge a little dielectric grease in them, reconnect). This will probably take some patience unless you get lucky early on.
Those crank and cam sensors, are they readily easy to get to? And sorry TPS is? (probably a stupid question, but I'm pulling my hair out here, and I don't have much to begin with)
If I can see it, I can work on it. Electrical is not one of my better talents.
I do have an aftermarket starter, door lock ( no alarm) system, professionally installed over a year ago, could this be a problem?
sjawelsh it seems this has come full circle, and you are back to where you started. I would think a bad sensor would throw a code. Are you sure you have no codes??? Bad Ground??? A mouse under the hood looking for warmth and chewed up some wires???
It always pays to know the guy at the local shop. (not the ford dealer)
Basically what I am figuring is rule out the stupid stuff, start simple. I would also check the fuel at the rail 1 more time to make sure it wasnt the preassure that was in there. I have seen pressure and no volume or vice a versa. These engines may have a shut down instead of running it lean??
With key on you should have 12v on the inj connector on one wire and 12 volts on one wire of the coil connectors..Thats a good place to start. Use a test light.
Pull all fuses and relays and reinsert..
TPS= Throttle position sensor. It's a 3-pin connector on the throttle body. If you are not sure what that is, then open the hood and have someone push the gas pedal with the engine off. You will see some movement - that is the throttle linkage on the throttle body that is moving the throttle plate inside the throttle body. Sensor is on the throttle body. (You said you have a '04 so you should have the 2V engine and not the drive-by-wire throttle system.)
But start with thorough look at connections and fuses as a few have advised before you get to that.
It looks like the purpose of the TPS voltage measurement is to track down something further upstream. If you don't see voltage at the TPS, then something is wrong elsewhere. They have you measure the voltage with just the key on, engine off, and it never says to replace the TPS, it just directs you to measure more voltages that relate to the PCM.
I have a question , in refferance to the tps tests being run. The TPS controls fuel delivery. Does it control spark??? Early on in this thread he hit the engine with "either" Not even a hickup, or miss fire, he stated.
I am following this thread so I get knowledge, even if he had a bad TPS it would still fire, backfire, missfire, or hickup. Right?