I guess my old truck fell under option #4.

 

I guess it's a matter of where the OP lives. If he's in an area that gets Arctic-cold, where tranny fluid doesn't flow well, then anything in the cooler lines, including the OEM coolers, is a hazard to flow.

On the other hand, if he's in a more moderate climate, the filter can't hurt. Proposing the "what if the filter clogs?" question is much the same as "what if the INTERNAL filter clogs?" By the time THAT happens, it won't make much difference, as the source of the stoppage is a trans already coming apart for other reasons.

My experience with spin-on tranny filters, especially where I've added a neodymium magnet or two on the flange surface, is that my fluid stays much cleaner, thus preventing the continuing recirculation of small chips and specs of dirt. Yes, the magnets catch wear metals, something that's not good to continually circulate through the bearings and bushings, and changing the spin-on is inexpensive and gives me a chance to clean the "fuzz" off the magnets.

Even microscopic contaminates aren't doing the internals any good, and I feel that the external filtration is just a plus, especially in warmer climates where there's not much downside.

The Allison's on the Duramax's have spin-on's. General Motors wouldn't spend the money if they felt there were no returns.

Ford insists on external filtration after a rebuild. The Magnefine has more than just magnets inside, and on media size alone I would guess that it's more restrictive than a spin-on.

From what I've been able to gather, John Wood recommends external filtration.

So there are two legitimate sides to this. Since he's got one already, why not just maintain it?

I've got 182,000 on the original transmission. Anyone want to see the Blackstone I recently had done on my old trans fluid? "I'll show you mine if you show me yours".

Pop

 

To BigBubba,

If your filter base uses 3/4x16 (the most standard spin-on size) threads, then a good filter for this application is a Baldwin BT111. It's the same threads and size as a standard FL-1A filter, but is specifically for HYDRAULIC fluids. I got that info from Applications Engineering at Baldwin in Kearney, NE.

In a tight pinch you could use a Motorcraft FL-1A, Baldwin B2, even a Fram PH-8A, etc.

Added neodymiums are an optional bonus.

Pop

 

Well where is this filter located at? My transmission was replaced at 84K 4 years ago according to the Oasis.

 

Usually right next to the tranny, Justin. The cooler lines are routed through it.

 

I will have to take a look here soon Joe.

 

Marv, I also believe filtering ELC coolant is a waste, too. To each his own.

I'll send a sample of my fluid to Blackstone next year. I've only got about 4k on it right now.

 

Agreed, different strokes....

... but are you sure ELC doesn't "precipitate"?

Since I prefer to do the coolant maintenance myself, with the assistance of lab analysis, I feel that ELC itself is a waste.

Maybe someday I'll change, but I don't particularly WANT everything to be "maintenance free". To me, that somehow equates to "non-servicable" which equates to "throw-away", a concept I detest.

Some folks prefer Optima batteries, some Motorcraft. Anybody dipped a hydrometer into an Optima lately?

Of course, there ARE exceptions: Spin-ons themselves are, by their nature, throw away!

Pop

 

Well the anti freeze filter has important additives if you know what they do in it plus a little filtering that goes through it.Renew your anti freeze every two years then forget the rest that you are doing.My advice from new blocks is when you get the vehicle drain and flush all the casting sand out.Preventive maintance goes long ways. OH I need some more green bars too

 

You're over-generalizing. SOME coolant filters have SCA's added. I prefer to use the ones without, and just add SCA's as testing shows their needed.

As you said, preventive maintenance goes a long ways. I disagree with the change every two years and forget all else, however.

Pop

 

If you buy a good coolant your additives will already be in it.I have been doing this on all of my fleet of vehicles and no related failures.No water pump failures from over concentration or erosion or pin hole damage found in the block.

 

I agree with you that your method of coolant maintenance will work perfectly well. It's a good way to do fleet maintenance. Having several drivers tend to cause small, routine stuff to get overlooked.

I am the only driver of my truck. I am also it's only maintenance mechanic, and what I do for mine works equally-well for me.

As I said, different strokes....

Remember, however, there are several "good" coolants out there with no SCAs at all. You should probably recommend the use of coolants meeting diesel heavy-duty, low silicate specifications. Even then, it should be ensured that they are "pre-charged".

I suspect we've drifted far enough away from the original subject to consider this one "jacked".

Sorry, guys.

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ok it is spliced into the cooler line and is mounted on the pass side on the outside of the frame il look 2maro on the size and see about a filter. What tranny floud is good to run in these trannys?

 

Bubba,

Does your filter kit look like the one at this URL:
http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...ROD&ProdID=761

If so, I believe the filters I mentioned in post #18 above won't work, as the filter shown there has 1"x12 threads.

If your current filter is, indeed, a Baldwin BT839, you can get another from that website. They're a sponsor here, and are highly recommended.

While their aim is to sell product, there is a lot of text explaining the desirability of external filtration there, too.

Most Baldwin products can also be obtained from FleetPride, with stores all over the place.

Pop

 

no it is not like that il get a pic of it today i dont have a digital camera so i use my phone and upload them from the website but last time the site was down. so if it lets me do it il post a pic tonight