1997 ford diesel driving to store engine starts acting like running out of fuel.make it to store fill both tanks drive 3 blocks and dies nevers starts again runs about 5 seconds on starting fluid.replaced f.filter and cam sensor checked all fuses checked oil press.is good.only thing i havent done is bleed the injector lines because don't no how.any help greatly app.are diagrams to show how to bleed lines! thnx

 

never ran out of diesel

 

first off no starting fluid, will cause serious damage to the engine and may even blow up in your face. did you get the truck home or is it stuck on the side of the road? do you have a way to scan for codes? how long was the truck running before it died?

no injector lines to bleed, its self priming....

the way you described it the problem sounds like your fuel pump died or you have a high pressure oil system concern, need some more details on the truck/modifications, how long it was running before this happened,

check for fuel pressure- have someone cranking on the truck while you stick a tire pressure gauge on the shrader valve just to the driver's side of the fuel filter cap.

 

the truck is at home.truck had been running for at least 10 miles.i don't have a way to scan for codes.and the truck has no mods.and now when i turn it over there is a clicking sound! i took the oil line off on the driverside valve cover turn the engine over and oil came out flowing

 

good god! dont mess with the oil lines! that line can get pressure up to 4000 psi, it can kill you! also, now that you have opened the system at the head it will be harder to diagnose since you just allowed a ton of air into the system.

clicking sound???? battereis go dead on you?

 

what is the recommended fuel press? and if fuel pump is bad is it hard to change and where? also had sum people tell me maybe the fuel delivery pump that delivers the fuel to the injector!

 

The fuel pump is in the valley of the engine undre teh turbo. it is the only fuel pum pon the truck. psi should be about 60-70

What do you mean by clicking sound?

check the conectors on teh valve covers for burnt pins too.

 

ill second the burnt pints.
Mitch

 

where on the valve covers im i looking what kind of pins? and the fuel pump is it a pain to change any thing need to know when taking it off ? first time to mess with a diesel engine!and the clicking is comin from the deal looks like the air cond.compressor? right or wrong?

 

Ive never changed out a pump let so i dont have any pointers for you on that but the pins are on each head there are two on each and 5 wires goin to each pin. They go the injectors and the glow plugs. The plug into the valve cover gaskets.

Th only thing under the hood that looks like an AC compressor is the AC compressor. Does it turn over fine still?

 

you need to check your fuel pressure first like joe said IF IT IS YOUR FUEL PUMP DO NOT LOSE THE PISTON UNDER THE PUMP IN THE ENGINE WHEN YOU LOSEN THE BOLTS THAT HOLD THE FUEL PUMP DOWN HAND TURN YOUR ENGINE UNTIL THE PUMP RAISES ITSELF heres how to change it if you need it -----This service is not difficult when working on a Federal-emissions F-series. The intake Y-pipe and fuel filter housing need to be removed first. Then, using a 1 1/4" box wrench (having two different wrenches works best because of differing angles on the box ends give you a wider working range) or socket on a flex-head ratchet, loosen the banjo bolt fitting at the rear of the pump. Take care not to drop or damage the steel sealing washers. After removing the banjo bolt, remove the pump mounting bolts and lift the pump straight out of its hole. If the pump seems stuck, use a rolling-head type pry bar (lady-slipper, duck bill, crowsfoot) to pry it up straight. Pulling staight up will prevent the pump push rod from catching and falling back down into the engine requiring engine removal to retrieve the rod. On California-emission vehicles the banjo fitting is too far under the turbo and fuel line damper to reach with a wrench and access is restricted for using a socket (you may get the bolt out, but good luck getting the it back in). In this case and with the Econoline due to its body design, it is necessary to remove the turbocharger to remove the lift pump instead of the fuel filter housing. In all cases, when installing the new lift pump, lube the o-ring on the pump shank with dielectric grease and start the banjo bolt a couple of threads before installing a tightening the mounting bolts. Again, take care not to damage the sealing washers. Once the pump is secured to the block, tighten the banjo bolt to 40 ft/lbs.

 

Good write up jim, Reps sent.

Just one trick that I would add is: after disconnecting everything from the pump, turn the engine over by hand until the cam lobe pushes up the tappet which (most of the time) lifts the pump up alittle. This postions the cam lobe at 12 o'clock so that the tappet cannot fall into the engine when removing the pump even if it comes loose from the pump and drops in the hole. After installing the new pump and starting the bolts, rotate the engine again to lower the cam lobe and make tightening the pump hold bolts easier. Just my .02.

 

easy boys...lol we dont know that tis a fuel pump!!! excellent tip on the removal though. i have heard horror stories of guys losing the pump shaft into the motor

 

Sam Miller has a detailed writeup on lift pump change but I don't know how to pull it up and paste it her I think TJ or someone else has done it.

 

yea i dropped my pump shaft in my engine and it was a nightmare i cut my oil pan and got it out but i was just eatin holes when i tryed to weld it up so i tack welded it real good and then jb welded it THAT WAS A NIGHTMARE EMPHASIS ON NIGHTMARE