02 F350 Clutch Slave/Master Cylinder Hard Shift
#1
02 F350 Clutch Slave/Master Cylinder Hard Shift
Broken retaining clip on clutch master cylinder allowed the clutch pedal to come up about 3-4 inches too high. Drove truck several months that way, it shifted fine, just strange having the pedal that high. Then I Had a "non pre-filled" master cylinder put in. Since that time downshifting into the lower gears is very hard, there is no grinding, just cant push into gear unless slowed way down or rev engine to manually sinc. Clutch and tranny are fine and this symptom started immediately after the new master...Any help is appreciated.
Coyote
Coyote
#2
Welcome to FTE. Does the pedal feel any different now than it used to (before the broken retainer)? Did you bleed the system after putting the new master in?
You might pull the slave cylinder out of the bell housing and see if you can tell if the fork is bent. Driving several months with the overextended master may have bent the fork.
You might pull the slave cylinder out of the bell housing and see if you can tell if the fork is bent. Driving several months with the overextended master may have bent the fork.
#3
The pedal does not feel any different, it's not mushy and you can't "pump it up" to make it perform any better. The symptom began immediately after the install, so I'm not sure about the fork being bent but obviously worth looking at. I'm considering replacing the slave, master etc already filled and ready to go, just wondering if anyones heard of this before. Thanks for the help.
Coyote
Coyote
#5
The thing that sounds the most likely would just be air in the system. Pain to bleed, but I think you have to hold the master down low and pump the shaft slowly with the cap off the reservoir and see if you can get any bubbles out of it. (You have checked to make sure the fluid is full right?).
When mine went I just replaced the whole set up with the pre-bled unit. I guess it might make sense that the new master might have caused the slave to fail with increased pressure or something. Make sure you let us know what you find.
When mine went I just replaced the whole set up with the pre-bled unit. I guess it might make sense that the new master might have caused the slave to fail with increased pressure or something. Make sure you let us know what you find.
#6
Fluid is full. Yes the bleeding is supposed to be a bear, instructions I read recommended 3 people to do it more easily? I think it might be cheaper/easier to just replace the whole shebang. The only reason I needed to replace mine was because the piece that goes to the clutch pedal broke (cheapo junk). What did your "whole setup" come with? where did you get it? not last and certainly not least Any place to get instructions from those who've done it already? I'm surprised no-one else has experienced this.
Coyote
Coyote
#7
It seems like it was in the $130 - $150 range when I bought mine. I bought the pre-bled assembly and had to buy the rod that attaches to the clutch pedal separate. Others have said that came with their kit, so be sure to ask. If you buy it separate, the rod just snaps into the master.
I assume you know how to get the master out of the firewall and the clip off the clutch pedal. The rest is easy. The slave locks into the bell housing the same way the master goes in the firewall. A 1/4 turn CCW with a pair of channel locks and you can remove the slave. Just be careful with this part. There is a plastic cap on the end of the slave rod. Pull the slave out slowly, and before you get it all the way out of the hole, stick your finger in there and hold the cap on so it doesn't fall off in there. The new slave has the same plastic cap, but it's attached by 2 thin pieces of plastic to keep it compressed. The first time you push the pedal, those plastic tabs break and the rod extends. The only other step is to remove the reservoir held in place by those 2 plastic push pins.
Reverse the procedure and push the pedal and your finished. If you're not in a big hurry, check with Ed https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/member.php?u=406391
He's a sponsor here that is a Ford dealer that sells at a discount price. Contact him and he'll tell you what he sells the parts for.
Did all that make sense?
I assume you know how to get the master out of the firewall and the clip off the clutch pedal. The rest is easy. The slave locks into the bell housing the same way the master goes in the firewall. A 1/4 turn CCW with a pair of channel locks and you can remove the slave. Just be careful with this part. There is a plastic cap on the end of the slave rod. Pull the slave out slowly, and before you get it all the way out of the hole, stick your finger in there and hold the cap on so it doesn't fall off in there. The new slave has the same plastic cap, but it's attached by 2 thin pieces of plastic to keep it compressed. The first time you push the pedal, those plastic tabs break and the rod extends. The only other step is to remove the reservoir held in place by those 2 plastic push pins.
Reverse the procedure and push the pedal and your finished. If you're not in a big hurry, check with Ed https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/member.php?u=406391
He's a sponsor here that is a Ford dealer that sells at a discount price. Contact him and he'll tell you what he sells the parts for.
Did all that make sense?
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