Clutch issues and questions.
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Freshman User
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Clutch issues and questions.
Yesterday I was driving and found it very hard to shift gears, almost felt like I was not pressing the clutch pedal all the way to the floor, it would still go into gear but would grind for a fraction of a second. A minute later I had nothing! the truck is running but cant get any gears at all out of it. The clutch pedal would go all the way to the floor but could not put the transmission into any gear. Does this sound like the clutch assembly is out or the master or slave cylinder? I just don't want to remover the PTO and the ZF5 if I don't have to.
Also just some extra info. The bushing on the clutch master cylinder is new.
I need new bushings for the pedal assembly as its a bit sloppy
I do NOT have the firewall flex that everyone talks about.
Also just some extra info. The bushing on the clutch master cylinder is new.
I need new bushings for the pedal assembly as its a bit sloppy
I do NOT have the firewall flex that everyone talks about.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8,476
Likes: 37
From: Madison, WI
The fork only moves about 1/2" to 9/16" to disengage the clutch. If it's less, problem is "upstream" - hydraulics, bushings, etc. If it's at least that much, problem is "downstream" - fork, throwout bearing, pressure plate fingers.
Does the pedal return normally? Have you tried starting it in gear with the clutch pedal pressed? (Most likely it'll make the truck lurch.)
Does the pedal return normally? Have you tried starting it in gear with the clutch pedal pressed? (Most likely it'll make the truck lurch.)
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2015
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From: Penndel, PA
My instincts say weak hydraulics but the above comments are dead on for testing in my opinion. I too have my truck in pieces or I would measure and verify madpogue's number but it seems about right. It doesn't move much on the slave end.
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new master/slave, but still dont have pedal return.
Ok so here is the latest.
I starting poking around underneath and wiggled the boot on the slave cylinder rod and it dumped a crap load of fluid on me. I promptly went to advance auto and purchased the master and the slave. I have replaced both and followed the directions and the bleeding advice I have read on these forums. Now my issue is the clutch pedal does not return on its own. You can press it to the floor and the slave cylinder rod extends and pushes the fork forward but only moves the pedal back about an inch when i lift my foot off of the pedal. I have to pull the pedal up with the tow of my foot. I spent almost an hour bleeding both and I feel i have done a good job bleeding them (again mostly thanks to the advice I have received on these forums.) So does this mean it still needs a new clutch or should i bleed it for another hour? or is there something I am missing?
I starting poking around underneath and wiggled the boot on the slave cylinder rod and it dumped a crap load of fluid on me. I promptly went to advance auto and purchased the master and the slave. I have replaced both and followed the directions and the bleeding advice I have read on these forums. Now my issue is the clutch pedal does not return on its own. You can press it to the floor and the slave cylinder rod extends and pushes the fork forward but only moves the pedal back about an inch when i lift my foot off of the pedal. I have to pull the pedal up with the tow of my foot. I spent almost an hour bleeding both and I feel i have done a good job bleeding them (again mostly thanks to the advice I have received on these forums.) So does this mean it still needs a new clutch or should i bleed it for another hour? or is there something I am missing?
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update broken clutch fork
Clutch fork is broken. split right at he pivot point. When the fork moves the half on the outside of the zf5 flexes and gives, hence no pedal return. Can that fork be replaced without removing the transmission?
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Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2011
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Yes. Pull the rubber boot off and pull on it and it should come out. It's (hopefully) held in place on it's pivot with two spring clips.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8,476
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From: Madison, WI
Replacement fork is less than $20. I found out the fork on my '85 IDI had been welded; it obviously had cracked in the exact same way. It looked...marginal. New fork definitely improved clutch action. Welding seems like more trouble than it's worth for such a cheap part.
Water under the bridge, but wrt. the hydraulics, the best option is a complete pre-built pre-bled master-line-slave assembly. Something to ponder if you have hydraulic issues down the road.
Water under the bridge, but wrt. the hydraulics, the best option is a complete pre-built pre-bled master-line-slave assembly. Something to ponder if you have hydraulic issues down the road.
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i ordered a new one of rock auto but i am going to weld the one i have and use it in the interim. The truck is a tow truck and its costing me a lot of money every day its down. I would like to again thank everyone for the help. I am always amazed at the support I get from other users on this forum.
by the way i think what happened was the fork broke and allowed the slave cylinder to extend beyond its limits and blow out the rear end of the slave cylinder. When I removed that slave cylinder the whole rear end was cracked and separated under the boot. looks like it exploded.
by the way i think what happened was the fork broke and allowed the slave cylinder to extend beyond its limits and blow out the rear end of the slave cylinder. When I removed that slave cylinder the whole rear end was cracked and separated under the boot. looks like it exploded.
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