p0344 Code
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From: Gifford, IL
p0344 Code
Does this code necessarily mean the CPS is bad? I threw the code, replaced the sensor, and still have the code and wont run. I read on here that you have to grease it up or if theres any moisture on it it can fry a new one. Any thoughts? Could it be a bad wiring harness? What are the odds of putting in a brand new one thats bad too?
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Joined: May 2007
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From: Belair md
there is always a chance that you have a bad sensor, but typicly a no-start situation will yield both codes, p0340, po344. only getting the 344 is puzzling, typicly a 344 is only set alone on a stall concern.
check your wiring for anything rubbed. does the tach move while cranking?
check your wiring for anything rubbed. does the tach move while cranking?
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From: Gifford, IL
Yeah the tach moves just fine while cranking. I can get it to start, and keep it running at 600 rpm with my foot stuck to the floor, but i let off after a couple seconds and it died instantly. I guess my only option is to get a new sensor, grease it up good and make sure the connections are good, and see if that fixes it. The 0344 code is the only one it gets, and it will clear itself everytime you take the key out. Also, the truck died twice on my dad, but it would restart and run a little. He was close to home and got it here, but by the time it got here it had no power and would barely run. Now she only runs with the pedal on the floor and wont go above 600 or 650 rpm. Any thoughts?
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From: Gifford, IL
Its missing real bad. Runs terrible, almost sounds like theres a knocking. As for smoke, theres not a cloud by any means, but the garage filled up with a pretty good haze. We used the scan tool and cleared the codes, then started it and it died and threw the code again. Is the 344 code just gettin throw cuz its dying then? It has the check egnine light on even when its at 600 rpm when my foots on the floor.
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Lead Driver
Joined: May 2007
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From: Belair md
i beleive the 344 is set due to it stalling and thats all, i have yet to see a 344 by itself and be a cam sensor issue, i think you have burnt valve cover harnesses.
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Lead Driver
Joined: May 2007
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From: Belair md
its easiest to pull the covers and inspect but you should be able to use an ohm meter and look for an open ciruit or grounded circuit. you may also find that when you go to unplug the connectors to check that you find a melted one.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2007
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From: Belair md
i just read the other topic...hmmm, are you sure the fuel isnt gelled? what does it look like in the bowl? how long has it been in the garage? heated?
i doubt the fuel is gelled since it keeps restarting everytime........ how hard is it to restart? long crank time or fires righ tup?
i doubt the fuel is gelled since it keeps restarting everytime........ how hard is it to restart? long crank time or fires righ tup?
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From: Gifford, IL
Its been in a 55* garage for 5 or 6 hours. I haven't checked the bowl just yet, i figured since it would run and kept restarting it wasnt gelled. Restarting, it varies. Sometimes it fires after a few seconds then dies, a couple times it has started right up and died, but for those 2 seconds it ran and cranked it sounded normal. Sometimes it sounds like crap the entire time. Sometimes it wont run at all even when on the floor, and sometimes it just wont fire. Its got me confused since the only constant is that it wont run over 2 seconds.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2007
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From: Belair md
since it fires right up everytime i dotn think its gelled fuel, with no scanner to read live data or run self tests i have to stick with attempting to ohm uvc harnesses or remove the covers to inspect
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From: Gifford, IL
Ok i think ill go check the covers then. It ran perfect for last two years and drove it 60 miles a day to school and never had a problem, never threw a code or anything. After sitting a month it ran just fine. Two days later it runs and then just poops out. So its somethin that happened pretty abruptly, hopefully its an easy fix i can identify quickly.