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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 09:00 PM
  #16  
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Well i just got the revised edition of the story lol. On the way home ( 1/2 mile drive ), it started running really rough and would almost stall. He got it home, shut it off. Then decided to pull it in the garage so he started it, it kept running real rough, had no power, and barely made it to the garage. He shut it off inside the garage. It wasnt until it was inside the garage that it would actually die.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 09:02 PM
  #17  
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From: Belair md
so it was running fine on the road then all of a sudden lost power? that sounds like a burnt harness
 
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 09:05 PM
  #18  
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Yeah he said he took off from a stop sign and it just got real rough and lost power. Ill go check the harness right now with the ohm meter, and if nothing i guess ill have to take the covers off
 
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 09:12 PM
  #19  
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From: Levittown
Joe

A buzz test would pull out the IDM codes.
Maybe he just has a obd2 read/clear unit

Bill
 
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 09:15 PM
  #20  
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From: Belair md
he doesnt have a scanner though. i would be willing to bet it would fail a pair of injectors but we have no way of finding out short of visual inspection.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 09:21 PM
  #21  
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From: Levittown
Dropping a bank.

Bill
 
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 09:29 PM
  #22  
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i checked 3 outta 4 harness connections ( fourth was under the intake and couldnt get to without taking apart). No melted pins. How exactly do i check it with the ohm meter? I am i looking for no resistance in a wire or am i looking for a burnt wire that wont let current flow through?
 
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 09:29 PM
  #23  
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From: Belair md
dropping a what?
 
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 09:32 PM
  #24  
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From: Gifford, IL
As of right now i'm just using a friends superchips that can read codes
 
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 09:35 PM
  #25  
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From: Belair md
you are looking for 0 or infinity, basicly. either one is bad in your case. normal should be 3-4 ohms roughly give or take a little, but you are basicly looking for an open circuit or a grounded circuit
 
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 09:40 PM
  #26  
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From: Belair md
i think the rule of thumb on the injectors is under 30 ohms is a bad solonoid so if you get a reading of less then that on the valve cover then you have a problem, and if the number is high then you have a problem too...lol
 
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 09:43 PM
  #27  
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From: Levittown
Originally Posted by c00nhunterjoe
dropping a what?
Odd and even cyl's
The IDM can shut down a whole bank to protect itself.

Bill
 
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 09:52 PM
  #28  
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Alright well i just realized i left my ohm meter at work so i wont get around to testing till tomorrow after school and work. Ill post the results and let ya know what i find. Thanks for the help guys your lifesavers
 
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 09:56 PM
  #29  
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oh, a bank of the motor...lmao. i thought you went to go poop.... that went way over my head. its time for me to go to sleep, been too long of a day.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 06:12 PM
  #30  
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Ok so heres whats goin on now. I noticed the wait to start light stays on longer than normal, especially after its been sitting in a 50* garage. It also stays on for the same period of time even if i let it go off, turn the key off, and turn it back on. Could some bad glow plugs cause it to run this way? They have been iffy at times, and once it would barely start in 65* degree weather. Also, the exhaust shoots out white smoke intermittintly. Its not a constant smoke, but it shoots out off and on, and a decent amount. I did get it to run for a few seconds again but only with my foot on the floor. I checked the valve cover gasket harness by putting the black lead on a clean bolt for a ground and the red lead on the pins on the gasket harness. The outside pins all read between .9 and 2.5 ohms, and the inside 3 didnt do anything. I'm not sure if this is the correct way to test it, but thats what i did. Am i testing the harness right? Could the glow plugs be bad? I'm putting in a second replacement CPS sensor just to make sure the first replacement wasnt a dud to begin with.
 
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