Be sure and disconnect both batteries before doing the amp test. If you leave one connected, you'll only be able to read half (or less) of the actual current flow since the batteries are connected in parallel.

With your batteries connected, start the vehicle and take a reading at the battery posts. You should seen the voltage climb to 13.4 - 14.2 volts after running for a few minutes. If the voltage stays at 12v or lower, then you've got a charging problem.

If you do find that your alternator is bad and the batteries have been depleted, be sure and fully charge the batteries with an external charger before starting your engine with a new alternator installed. In some cases, depleted batteries can damage a new alternator.

 

While the DVOM is connected start pulling fuses one at a time and see which circuits make the amps drop... It might be your radio going bad!

 

Disclaimer....I am not an electrician, however, I am willing to learn...

I went thru my factory Ford repair manual (pgs 414-00-16, under NOTE), which states that "no production vehicle should have more than 0.050 amp draw" and "a periodic pulsing of up to 0.080 amp....should be considered normal". (You were correct BAJ126)

It also stated not to use a circuit "Light" tester due to, as mentioned above, some draw being normal.

I set my positive (red) multimeter into the 20 Amp plug and the negative (black) to the normal plug. I set my multimeter to "A" for amps and here is what I found on my Ex....

I was getting up to 1.8 amps draw broken down as follows:

Fuse #11 (Radio Main) approx 1.5 amp draw (good guess BAJ126!)
Fuse #15 (Driver's seat module memory) approx .020 amp draw
Fuse #7 (High Beam) approx .020 amp draw
Fuse #34 (Brake on/off switch) approx .020 amp draw
Fuse #35 (Instrument cluster) approx .020 amp draw

With these fuses pulled, the remaining amps drawn was approx. .008

My question now is, which of these draws, if any, should make up the 'normal' .050-.080 draw (obviously, not the radio, or at least not this much. I would think that the clock on the radio would draw some)??

I would not think that it would be #15 or #7 either...

In addition, what would be the next step to correcting the draw? In some instances, is there a relay that would need to be replaced and in other instances, the actual electronic unit be replaced, such as the radio?

Thanks to all for your input and support! I really do appreciate it!!!!!

 

Shouldn't the High Beam have 0amps?

The radio seems to high but someone else can verify this.

Unplug the radio and see if the battery still drains.

 

reinstalled Fuse #11 and unplugged radio. Multimeter still read .008 amps draw = bad radio. Good test, thanks BAJ126!

BTW...I know the OEM radio isn't too good as this is my second one...first one ate CD's

 

NP share the Rep Points... In hot Cali the caps in the radio after so many years tend to leak on the circuit board... Time to get an aftermarket head unit!

 

I know...I need to get one that I can hook up my ipod, I've been looking at the Alpine and Pioneer units, however, due to expenses and potential "new" electrical gremlins, I am hesitant.....Hmmm...maybe now that I am feeling a bit more confident about my electronic skills, I'll do it

I tried one of those FM tuners for my ipod and returned it the same day...those are a waste.

 

Hey guys that's what I call team work!!!
Great!!
Now I'm going to verify my draw.

 

I to have a problem with battery drain but mine was the keyless entry was taking 98 amps by it self. Used the 10a setting and started to pull all fuses that used power , 11 radio, 18something for bakes, 19 entry, 35 inside lights, 36 pcm, 602 abs brakes.