Electrical woes....
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 109
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From: Brea, CA
Electrical woes....
The X was dead this morning. I tried cranking it, but only got clicking noises. I suspect the battery or batteries as I have dual on the 7.3l. After doing some searching on the board, I feel more confident that it is the battery.
My concern is that I have the Edge Evolution programmer on it and I was able to return it back to stock mode. I pulled the DTC's and got the following:
P0562 - System Voltage Low
P0381 - Glow Plug Indicator Circuit Malfunction
P1260 - Theft Detection - Vehicle Immobilized
Does the battery 'heat up' the glow plugs? And maybe explain the P0381 DTC.
I will call Edge tomorrow in the P1260 DTC or does someone know how to remove this code and start the truck? Maybe disonnecting the battery for 30 minutes of something to that effect.
I have both Ford repair volumes, however, neither tell me how to clear these specific codes.
THanks!!!!!
My concern is that I have the Edge Evolution programmer on it and I was able to return it back to stock mode. I pulled the DTC's and got the following:
P0562 - System Voltage Low
P0381 - Glow Plug Indicator Circuit Malfunction
P1260 - Theft Detection - Vehicle Immobilized
Does the battery 'heat up' the glow plugs? And maybe explain the P0381 DTC.
I will call Edge tomorrow in the P1260 DTC or does someone know how to remove this code and start the truck? Maybe disonnecting the battery for 30 minutes of something to that effect.
I have both Ford repair volumes, however, neither tell me how to clear these specific codes.
THanks!!!!!
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,007
Likes: 4
From: Central Florida
Dead batteries can cause all of that. Until the motor is running, the battery handles all of the electrical demand. If the power is too low, the glow plugs will only make matter worse and draw more voltage away from the rest of the truck. The PATS works off of RFID. It sends a electromagnetic signal to the lock, when the proper key is in the lock, the coil inside takes the signal and broadcast a new frequency. If there isn't enough power going to the key, the key may not give off the right Freq and the vehicle is disabled. With decent voltage, putting the proper key in the ignition should clear the immobilizer.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 12,235
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From: Houston, Texas
Dead batteries can cause all of that. Until the motor is running, the battery handles all of the electrical demand. If the power is too low, the glow plugs will only make matter worse and draw more voltage away from the rest of the truck. The PATS works off of RFID. It sends a electromagnetic signal to the lock, when the proper key is in the lock, the coil inside takes the signal and broadcast a new frequency. If there isn't enough power going to the key, the key may not give off the right Freq and the vehicle is disabled. With decent voltage, putting the proper key in the ignition should clear the immobilizer.
If batteries are weak, it's like your PCM being drunk and extremely tired; it can't think straight much less do what it does so well, correctly. If you still have the stock batteries, I'd look into some new ones that could stand up to the cold a little better. I'd also check and make sure your terminals aren't loose as it's a common problem.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 109
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From: Brea, CA
Good to go!!!
Thank you very much for the input!
I had both tested at the Ford Dealer. As you know, the crank amps are supposed to be 750. One battery had 230, the other 135 crank amps.
Replaced both and back on the road......
I had both tested at the Ford Dealer. As you know, the crank amps are supposed to be 750. One battery had 230, the other 135 crank amps.
Replaced both and back on the road......
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: Brea, CA
Not so fast......
Both NEW batteries DOA tonight! Just spent $220, that I did not really have.....oh well, probably needed at least one new one anyways. I will replace the Alternator tomorrow morning.....
Just discovered after washing the rig that someone had tagged my right fender....no note left of course......now looking for a black left fender...
Just discovered after washing the rig that someone had tagged my right fender....no note left of course......now looking for a black left fender...
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: Brea, CA
replaced alternator yesterday, charged both batteries, drove around for about 30 miles....now batteries are half dead! (according to my battery charger)
The factory Ford manual that I have states that it can only be:
1. Alternator or regulator (internal)
2. Battery (s)
3. Battery Cables (loose or corroded)
4. Internal Drain
The low charging system warning indicator light does not come on while driving.
Unfortunately, I do not have any way to test the electricals and I'm already into it for $400. The battery cables are not corroded or loose, at least at the battery terminals.
Do I spent the $125 for new cables or take it to Ford to diagnose????
The factory Ford manual that I have states that it can only be:
1. Alternator or regulator (internal)
2. Battery (s)
3. Battery Cables (loose or corroded)
4. Internal Drain
The low charging system warning indicator light does not come on while driving.
Unfortunately, I do not have any way to test the electricals and I'm already into it for $400. The battery cables are not corroded or loose, at least at the battery terminals.
Do I spent the $125 for new cables or take it to Ford to diagnose????
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 917
Likes: 1
From: Fort Lauderdale, Fl
Can you check to see if there is any draw or how much with everything off?! Disconnect all accessory components.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 109
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From: Brea, CA
I do not have any additional power accessories other than what came stock.....well besides the Edge Programmer.....
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Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: Brea, CA
I can get one, however, I'm not quite sure how to use it. I am more mechanical and less electrical....
Back from Sears......
Set the multimeter to AC/DC and touched battery terminals.
Both batteries registered .79 mA and that was with only the engine light on. I can unplug the light and get a reading.....however, does .79 appear to be drawing too much power?
Back from Sears......
Set the multimeter to AC/DC and touched battery terminals.
Both batteries registered .79 mA and that was with only the engine light on. I can unplug the light and get a reading.....however, does .79 appear to be drawing too much power?
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 917
Likes: 1
From: Fort Lauderdale, Fl
If you find one, a 10amp or 15amps would work, set it to 20 miliamps.
With the truck off disconnect the positive lead and secure the red (+) of the multimeter to the positive battery pole (+) and put the black (-) of the multimeter to the positive (+) cable that you removed.
You should see a reading and I believe that no Ford vehicle should have more than a 50 mA (0.050 amp) of continuous draw, someone can correct me here.
Then you can go to the fuse box in side the truck and start pulling fuses one by one including any external components such as Amplifiers, Eq, etc. anything that isn't OEM to see which circuit might be drawing too much.
With the truck off disconnect the positive lead and secure the red (+) of the multimeter to the positive battery pole (+) and put the black (-) of the multimeter to the positive (+) cable that you removed.
You should see a reading and I believe that no Ford vehicle should have more than a 50 mA (0.050 amp) of continuous draw, someone can correct me here.
Then you can go to the fuse box in side the truck and start pulling fuses one by one including any external components such as Amplifiers, Eq, etc. anything that isn't OEM to see which circuit might be drawing too much.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 917
Likes: 1
From: Fort Lauderdale, Fl
Use the 10A setting.
Is this similar to yours?:http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03482141000P
Is this similar to yours?:http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03482141000P
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: Brea, CA
I used the 20 Amp plug in on the multimeter and hooked it up as you stated. It is nearly drawing 1.5 Amps with nothing on. I will get a light testor tomorrow and start pulling fuses.......must sleep now. Thanks for your patience and assistance! It is definitely not the cables or any corrosion.....