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Will this fix my problem also????? There is Alot of play in mine and it got worse in the last week b.c of constant shifting.(plowing).. Now when i go to put it in park it just clunks and roles.. I really have to push it up to get it into park.
The tran shifts fine and goes into the other gears as it normally did.. just a little play in between..... Im praying no need for a new tranny or have to fix it..
I also was noticing a loose shifter and after I replaced my T/R selector switch it seemed worse. To the point that I could not get the lever into 1st gear and sometimes in park the truck would roll and I would hear an awful clicking sound. Well anyway in about 10 minutes it is fixed just by tightening those two loose torx head screws at the bottom of the cable at the bracket. Everything seems fine now. I did not even have to remove the shroud only the fuse panel cover to see them.
i went to ford and bought the outer and inner column shafts with new pin and spring......r&r it ....all fixed .....also my adjuster broke for dash selector and fixed that......like new......
I just fixed this tonight...a "true" 5-minute fix with nothing more than a T30 bit, 2" ratchet extension / ratchet, and a flashlight. You don't have to remove anything to get to it, but you do have to be laying on your back with your head way up by the pedals (legs out the driver door) to see it. VERY SIMPLE.
Sloppy shift lever cause - three photos showing the critical screws
I had to pull my column because the steering wheel was getting noticeably harder to turn (bad bearing inside the column), but when I removed it I found the two screws loose which was causing the sloppy shifting.
Just to help out anyone else that has this problem, here's three photos of the column on the bench and where the screws are.
I lost one of the torx screws for the shifter. Ford told me they don't sell those bolts and I would have to "improvise". Any ideas what size replacement screw to get? Based on my research the screw will take a T30 driver, I could find nothing about diameter and length? I want to make sure I order the right screw or know what demennisons I am looking for when I got to home depot, lowes, or O'Reilly's.
Last edited by OldExpy; Sep 10, 2015 at 10:49 AM.
Reason: typo
It's not, it's a workbench with a masonite surface. The masonite gets repainted when I have some leftover paint from some other project, and replaced every five or so years.
Mine is loose also, I'm going to fix it this weekend or early next week. I will post pics of what's going on and if i break anything I'll let you know what not to do.
Just fixed my loose shifter on my 2001 F250 4x4 260K miles. For two years now I had a problem where I sometime had to lift the shift handle for the starter to engage. With previous gen trucks that meant the electrical shift sensor was worn out. I just ignored the problem because of worse comes to worse I knew I could open the hood and jump the solenoid.
Last week I was in the bed working on my tool box. The truck was half in the garage so it was on a slight slope. The truck slipped out of park and started rolling down the driveway. I had to jump over the side of the bed and press on the brake to stop the truck. I set the parking brake and blocked the back wheels. Now I had a problem that needed immediate attention. I brought up my alldata subscription. It is USELESS in this type of situation. They have been steadily reducing content the past few years. Time to purchase real shop manuals. :-{
I got on the internet and searched for the problem. Presto there are several YouTube videos on this very subject. Easy five minute fix. I coated the bolt threads with blue locktite and tightened the dog **** out of them. Problem solved. If you have problems following the verbal directions here search for the YouTube video.
One if the many videos. This one is an excursion. Except for the knee panel the fix is the same as on the F250.
There are several more recent threads on the shifter issue.
I found that the real root cause of the loose bolts, bound up shift tube, and worn shifter pivot pin hole on these older trucks is a corroded TRS switch at the end of the shift cable, mounted external to the transmission case. Newer, five speed automatic transmissions have the switch mounted inside the transmission, so corrosion isn’t a problem on them.
What happens is that the shaft going into the transmission case corrodes and swells, causing the plastic TRS switch to bind and seize. That, in turn, causes excess force to make a gear change, overloading the bolts, plastic bushings, aluminum shift tubes, and the shift lever pivot pin.
Look at the TRS, and make sure you can move the shaft by hand ( block the wheels so you don’t run over yourself). If it takes more than finger pressure to change gears under the truck, you have a bad TRS, in addition to any other worn parts.
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