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I need part 6, tube. 29 bucks at SilverState. The shift lever goes into this part, and is held in with a pin. The hole for the pin is worn, as well as the cavity that the shift lever goes into. What is not shown in the picture, is the hole in the end of the lever (and tube), and the little pin that holds the lever in.
Last edited by bterry; Jan 16, 2010 at 08:43 PM.
Reason: elaboration
I have found that most of the time when the outer tube (#6) is bent or broken that the inner tube (#11) is also twisted. I always change both (#6 and # 11) at the same time. also I always change out the bushings (#8) in your picture at the same time. The parts are cheap and are usually available at the local dealership. I usually put a little light grease under the bushings for a little extra insurance.
Does anyone have a picture of this bracket on the steering column where these nuts need tightened? Also is removal of the ignition necessary or just the steering column shroud?
I am needing to do this. But have had NO experance with removing the the steering wheel. and key switch. I'm afraid of the air bag. can some one who has done this please guide me through it...........?
I love this website. I had the same problem, a suddenly loose shift lever. After looking it up here, I went out to the Excursion and the culprit screw lay in the grooves of my floor mat. I was able to put it back in as well as tighten the other screw just by removing the cosmetic "fuze panel" or lower instrument panel cover. Thanks for the help!!
my trucks shifter is also very loose. My shifter works perfectly and shifts tightly, but the actual shift lever is very loose, it moves up and down loosly (about 2 inches) in all gears. Is this the problem that is fixed by these torx screws? By reading this thread it sounds like it is shifting through the gears loosly and not the actual shifting lever that is loose. Thanks for any insight
Jarvis250,
It sounds like the problem mine was having. The torx screws are very easy to get to. Take the fuse panel off and get on your back in the floor board so you can look up into the cavity with a light. This thread gives a very good picture of where they are: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...g-problem.html
I hope you get it fixed!
Sorry to bring up an old post, but in a "search" this is all that came up. My problem is at the very end of the shift lever, where you would hold it to change gears, the O/D lock-out button is in this part. 92 F350 4x4, 7.5, E4OD.
I was quite cautious first time I removed an air bag, however its a piece of cake. Simply disconnect the battery and wait a half hour. 2 covers on the back side of the steering wheel , and 2 small bolts under neath. After that , lift the air bag out, and unplug 2 connectors. For the wheel, loosen a torx bolt in the center, and use a 2 jaw gear puller to pull the wheel loose, and then remove the torx bolt.
If you loosen the column and drop it down a little, on the top of the column are 2 u shaped clamps with bolts for the shift lever under the dash area.
I had the same problem on my 2000 F250. The shifter was loose and on one occasion it wouldn't start in park until I wiggled the shifter. When I checked a few minutes ago, both Torx screws on the bracket were loose. I just went out and tightened them up under the dash. I didn't have to remove any covers or shrouds. Five minute job. The photo on this thread was helpful.
ran into the same problems....went to ford and picked up the plastic bushings....one pkg of 2 pieces part #F3TZ-7L278-A and also bought ... two clamps part# F2DZ-7E400-A.....figured out how to remove the lock and it was a piece of cake......its better but not perfect
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