It's the fuel restriction sensor. I guess the fuel pressure switch is a good description. Fail safe for those who leave the fuel filter in there to long or the funky FPR screen gets clogged. The usually are replaced by a 1/8" NPT plug since all they really do is leak.

 

Thanks Pete! Mine was leaking after I replace the fuel pump (PITA Cali). I thought I read 200 foot lbs....any way it leaked after I re-installed it and abandoned it. I normally replace the filter 10 or 20K as well as the screen massage with the Q-tip.
Thanks again Pete!

 

That was excellent!! Blue hoses are heat resistant, so I've been told.

 

Anyone know the size of the banjo bolt?

 

IIRC 1 1/4 inch.

 

I concur... 1 1/4"

 

I was able to replace my fuel pump using my hitch wrench (box end) on the banjo bolt. Couldn't get on it competely, but it's a fine thread bolt and doesn't have all that much torque holding it in place. Getting it off was a cinch; going back on, just getting it started - with fingers - took hours. Find a little kid with small fingers...

I can't seem to find a replacement restriction sensor anywhere, unplugging it and blocking the line is okay?

 

[quote=SaintITC;9026563]I was able to replace my fuel pump using my hitch wrench (box end) on the banjo bolt. Couldn't get on it competely, but it's a fine thread bolt and doesn't have all that much torque holding it in place. Getting it off was a cinch; going back on, just getting it started - with fingers - took hours. Find a little kid with small fingers...

I can't seem to find a replacement restriction sensor anywhere, unplugging it and blocking the line is okay?[/quote]

Yeap as Pete said (read the upper quote), just be careful NOT to OVERTHIGTHEN it, because the FPR is very fragile.

 

has anyone ever installed a new fuel pump on a 1995 e350 box van? do we have to take the turbo off to get to this or what? help!!

 

Probably similar to a box van. Do you have a removeable engine cover in the cab area?

If yes then you can get access to the turbo and the top of the back of the engine easier than getting to the top from the front as the bulkhead of the firewall crosses right over the top of the fuel bowl assembly. You will need access to the fuel bowl to get the pump back in.

I tried it both ways. You have to remove the intake, down tubes and the air box of the turbo anyway (put rags in the VC openings so keep FO out of the intakes)and since you probably need to remove the banjo bolt or the fuel rail tubes to get the pump out, you can save a lot of frustration by removing the turbo entirely. I have it down to 15 min to pull the turbo and 30 min to put it back in, including fit checking the exhaust donuts..

If the regulator(the piece with the banjo bolt) doesn't have to be replaced you and you can get to the bolt you might be able to leave the back part of the pump and just replace the front part - the actual lift pump. I replaced the whole thing because I was planning to never go back in there again. Mine had leaks around the seal of the accumulator - the upper deck of the starship enterprise looking thing.

Removing the fuel pump from the back is easy with the turbo out. Getting it back in from the back is easy except for aligning the 3 fuel hoses that go to the fuel bowl. The first time I did it I ended up with leaks at the hoses. The second time I unbolted the fuel bowl and had a 2nd person pull the bowl up out of the way while I lined up the hoses and put both the pump and fuel bowl into place at the same time thereby slipping the 3 short hoses onto the pump and bowl in one smooth move. Then I found another leak on the fuel bowl and the heater element was bad.

The third time I did it I pulled the fuel bowl, cleaned it and replaced the screen and water seperator valve and a few other things, cleaned it up immaculate, checked for pin holes in the bottom of the bowl (search for that on FTE) put the pump in, then put the fuel bowl back in from the front with the fuel pump fully in place.

Had I known this was so much easier I would have pulled the fuel bowl the first time and then put the bowl back in after the pump was back in. I used a quilted pad to lay on top of the engine from the front and from the back. I also pulled the passenger seat so I could get in there easier.

If you use a 45 deg angle with the bowl rotated 90 deg CW (looking down at the top of the engine from the front, and tilt the top of the fuel bowl assembly toward the left front fender, you can connect the electrical connectors and then rotate the bowl down onto the fuel hoses, stop 1/2 way and connect the return (longer of the 3) to the tube at the front of the bowl and while your there connect the drain hose at the front - you won't get these on once the bowl is set. Then laying across the back of the engine finish rotating and straightening up the bowl to slip it onto the hoses from the pump.

I used electricains cable pulling lube on the inside of the hoses to help the hoses slip on. It dries and disappears and does not hurt vinyl or rubber. Plus I am an electricain and I have bunch of it.

For the front drain tube i made the tube extar long and slipped about 10inches on the metal tube that runs down the right front of the engine block - that way I could pull the hose up to meet the filter and clamp the drain hose onto the bowl where I could reach it then jsut slide the hose back doen over the tube while I was lowering the bowl into place. Use lots of lub and finish it before the lube dries.

Another caution - when you remove the fuel pump, watch for and grab that piston so you don't lose it. Read the details earlier in this thread for more cautions.

Looking back I should have just replaced the accumulator. I also am very glad that I fixed everything in there and cleaned it up immaculate. I also had the opportunity to replace a few other things while I was in there - I can't remember what those were but it was a sensor on the HPOP resivoir and another sensor. Its in my posts from about two years ago. Hope this answers your question.

 

excellent write up. this is exactly what is leaking on mine. i'm ganna go ahead and replace th hoses and everything to so this is exactly what i needed.

 

Like to add that these pics were awesome!!

Thanks a mill

 

thanks for the great post !! as i have a fuel leak on the bottom hose. this is a great lesson on my repair . looking at the pics , i need to clean my engine looks great.

 

Great writeup for those of us who are inclined to turn our own wrenches. Rep points sent!

 

Hi, i started with changing fuel lines and when i got into it,i could reach back behind bango
bolt and it felt like it was leaking fuel it is supposed to be a 1 1/4 size tool to fix this by
tightening it up.
I was looking for procedure to remove turbo if needed but so far have not found anything
on it,is there one and where is it located at,thank's