Oh no, I did both mods. I unplugged the connector that controls the EBPV rod, and I also capped off the EBP sensor.

Actually, my truck currently doesn't even have the EBPV or pedistal anymore. I deleted it a while back. But at the time when I still had it, I unplugged the connector to disable the EBPV.

The reason I capped off the backpressure sensor is that the sensor tube was clogged with soot, and I was tired of cleaning it out. So I plugged the tube and capped off the sensor so that I would never have to worry about cleaning it again. At the same time, by capping it and not completely removing the sensor, I don't set off a code or trigger the light.

I do still get a code for the EBPV, but it's a soft code only. I just don't get any code for the EBP sensor.

 

Gotcha, thanks.

 

Curtis,

You may want to put a plug in at the manifold. If that tube starts to leak then you will get an exhaust leak and ticking sound.

 

I thought somebody like Jody said that the ECM reads that sensor and does something with it? That is why I bought their other dongle that eliminates the EBP Valve not the EBP Sensor when I went to the van turbo.

 

thought I also heard that a few times

 

Oh don't worry, I did, and I mentioned it in post #3, I bought a cap for the sensor, and a plug for the tube. What's funny is I'm the type of person who would forget to plug something like that.

Yes, Jody has mentioned it before. I also talked to him about it when I did live tuning on my truck. He seemed to think that the way I have it set up that it won't affect driveability or reduce performance. It will also prevent any defueling from the EBP sensor. I've tested hooking it back up and have it read the backpressure, but I couldn't tell a difference at all in how the truck ran.

 

Did Jody say what causes defueling from the EBPV sensor? Sorry, I'm just trying to wrap my head around this defueling issue.

 

My truck no longer has the EBPV and it seems from reading this post the EBPS is not performing any function. Does it make sense to always remove the tube, plug the hole at the exhaust manifold, and leave the sensor in its location reading atmospheric pressure.

This seems to eliminate any issues with the tube (pin holes, clogging), not generate any codes, and remove an item from a system that is now non functional (in that the EBPV has been removed)

 

I put the painless wiring EBP eliminator on and ran it for awhile, it would mess up the 1and 2 shifting of the trans, took it off and no more problems, my tube stays pretty clean anyway, the eliminator did give a SOTP difference, and no CEL at WOT, but screwed with the shift's, what Pocket is talking about is the way to do it, or leave it alone and keep tube clean.

 

I think pocket and I have the same end result, I'm just getting rid of the tube and capping it at the manifold and leaving the sensor in the bracket so
not to zip tie it at a different location.

 

How does capping them system of not effect performance of the engine? if a clogged tube results in bad mileage then capping it seems like it would be doing similar?

 

Soot in the tube often results in skewed readings (higher than what they actually should be)... thus a code is triggered.

Unless that tube is completely and totally blocked, then it's exactly the same as having a plug.

 

In my case, I plugged the tube with an old sensor and still have a sensor connected to the pigtail exposed to ambient air...

Truck still seems like itself, almost better, any downsides?

 

Yeah, me too. I twisted the tube from no end, so put a plug in manifold and got a npt cap, and capped off the sensor, and ziptied it up. Truck still gets, when not on it, 20-ish mpg, but regular basis, 17-18mpg.

 

Posted in the wrong spot - crud.