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In my quest to make sure I was testing the coil correctly, I decided to check the batteries in my digital multimeter. Well, the batts were 5 years past their "use-by-date" and two were corroded. I got everything cleaned up, and with new batts, the coil's primary resistance now reads 1.5 ohms, and secondary reads 9.2K ohms. I'll wear the "dummy hat" for the rest of the day, and then call it a lesson learned. Thanks to all who responded.
I just replaced my original coil with a Pertronics Flamethrower and man what a difference and what I mean by that is the way it starts now. It doesn't even seem like it cranks at all. It also looks stock as long as you remove the sticker off the side.
I just replaced my original coil with a Pertronics Flamethrower and man
what a difference and what I mean by that is the way it starts now. It
doesn't even seem like it cranks at all. It also looks stock as long as
you remove the sticker off the side.
Cool. :)
I'm not the only sticker remover. ;)
But treally, it's cool you say that about how yours starts, mine starts like
that too. I inherited a '91 F150 5.8 that now has about 70k on it and my
'75 360FE+2100 will out start it when I do my part right.
I've got a Standard Motor Products coil that's "hotter than stock" but not
enough to cause trouble with the Dura Spark System. I don't have the part
number for that coil. :/ All I really know is it has threaded terminals and
my '75 360FE+2100 starts like you describe. :)
Too bad facts and figures weren't published on this automotive stuff like
it is with stereo and speaker stuff.