Pull intake again? wtf!
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2006
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Pull intake again? wtf!
Just finished up the truck intake replacement last night. Fired it up and runs like a dream. Drove it to work this morning only to find a small leak coming fromt he bottom on the intake on the front of the head. Does this mean I have to pull it off again? I sealed the crap out of it and it still leaks. I never use the gaskets for the front and never have. I used copper sealant. Could I seal the front without pulling it off? If i have to pull it off, do I have to replace the intake gaskets that are 2 hours old? Great monday for me already.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 176
Likes: 13
You need to use the front and rear gaskets on FE intakes. If you don't, the space is too great to rely on goop to do the job. can you smear stuff into it? maybe. i would try!.
When that fails. Clean the surfaces front and rear engine and intake side. Spray contact adheasive on the engine side and position the gaskets in place. Follow the directions on the can. Don't just spray and slap it together. Can you reuse the gaskets. IMO since the intake weighs like 85lbs I would go and eat the cost of the new gaskets. get help to set the manifold in place. You have already done the worst part of the job - telling your friends you made a mistake. I would not use silicone on gaskets, it tends to make them slide - At one time I always used gasket shelac, I started to use the contact spray cause it was faster. The gasket does the sealing, not the stuff you smear on it.
When that fails. Clean the surfaces front and rear engine and intake side. Spray contact adheasive on the engine side and position the gaskets in place. Follow the directions on the can. Don't just spray and slap it together. Can you reuse the gaskets. IMO since the intake weighs like 85lbs I would go and eat the cost of the new gaskets. get help to set the manifold in place. You have already done the worst part of the job - telling your friends you made a mistake. I would not use silicone on gaskets, it tends to make them slide - At one time I always used gasket shelac, I started to use the contact spray cause it was faster. The gasket does the sealing, not the stuff you smear on it.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 649
Likes: 0
You need to use the front and rear gaskets on FE intakes. If you don't, the space is too great to rely on goop to do the job. can you smear stuff into it? maybe. i would try!.
When that fails. Clean the surfaces front and rear engine and intake side. Spray contact adheasive on the engine side and position the gaskets in place. Follow the directions on the can. Don't just spray and slap it together. Can you reuse the gaskets. IMO since the intake weighs like 85lbs I would go and eat the cost of the new gaskets. get help to set the manifold in place. You have already done the worst part of the job - telling your friends you made a mistake. I would not use silicone on gaskets, it tends to make them slide - At one time I always used gasket shelac, I started to use the contact spray cause it was faster. The gasket does the sealing, not the stuff you smear on it.
When that fails. Clean the surfaces front and rear engine and intake side. Spray contact adheasive on the engine side and position the gaskets in place. Follow the directions on the can. Don't just spray and slap it together. Can you reuse the gaskets. IMO since the intake weighs like 85lbs I would go and eat the cost of the new gaskets. get help to set the manifold in place. You have already done the worst part of the job - telling your friends you made a mistake. I would not use silicone on gaskets, it tends to make them slide - At one time I always used gasket shelac, I started to use the contact spray cause it was faster. The gasket does the sealing, not the stuff you smear on it.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 470
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When I did my intake I didn't use the front and rear gaskets either, I used silver rtv. Mine doesn't leak (knock on wood). I found that when I replaced the intake on a different motor the gaskets were getting pushed out front and rear causing leaks so I was told to only use rtv. Just make sure you use the kind specified for high temp and good oil resistance silver and black i think. Just a fyi I was never able to seal it from the outside in, I always had to take that damn intake off. And I would definitely use new gaskets, it would suck to have to do it a third time because of gaskets that have already been torqued on.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2006
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When I did my intake I didn't use the front and rear gaskets either, I used silver rtv. Mine doesn't leak (knock on wood). I found that when I replaced the intake on a different motor the gaskets were getting pushed out front and rear causing leaks so I was told to only use rtv. Just make sure you use the kind specified for high temp and good oil resistance silver and black i think. Just a fyi I was never able to seal it from the outside in, I always had to take that damn intake off. And I would definitely use new gaskets, it would suck to have to do it a third time because of gaskets that have already been torqued on.
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Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 18,423
Likes: 9
From: iowa
Copper rtv is the wrong stuff for this application (works ok to be put on gaskets although I have never truly found the proper use for it outside of exhaust gaskets) it doesn't like filling gaps which the intake ends are a gap, the ONLY types you should even consider using is black or blue. OEM requires that black be used when I worked at a dealership, this is something that the company will have to stand behind if it leaks again so that should tell you something about what they have found works.
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More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 703
Likes: 3
From: Western Washington
I did an engine swap twice on my truck and this is what I've learned. The first engine rebuild I used the the cork gaskets from a kit that I glued to the block. I noticed a small leak from the rear right corner of the intake. I was told that the cork gaskets can dry and crack creating leaks, but I didn't have that problem. Those cork gaskets can be tricky to seal-up in the corners even with a little gasket maker.
The second rebuild I replaced the cork gaskets with Permatex Right Stuff. Just applied plenty of sealant on the front and back and the corners. Then waited for it to tack up a bit and installed the intake and torqued to spec. Them trimmed away any squeeze out gasket maker. Be sure to use plenty, but remember...what squeezes out on the outside can also squeeze out on the inside. I used Right stuff on the oil pan too and must say...not one leak has been detected anywhere on the engine to this day. It comes in an arisol can like cheeze whiz...not that I use cheese whiz...lol. Remember these old blocks didn't have the best machining back in the day, so it's up to us to get creative.
Good luck with the fix
The second rebuild I replaced the cork gaskets with Permatex Right Stuff. Just applied plenty of sealant on the front and back and the corners. Then waited for it to tack up a bit and installed the intake and torqued to spec. Them trimmed away any squeeze out gasket maker. Be sure to use plenty, but remember...what squeezes out on the outside can also squeeze out on the inside. I used Right stuff on the oil pan too and must say...not one leak has been detected anywhere on the engine to this day. It comes in an arisol can like cheeze whiz...not that I use cheese whiz...lol. Remember these old blocks didn't have the best machining back in the day, so it's up to us to get creative.
Good luck with the fix
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2006
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Copper rtv is the wrong stuff for this application (works ok to be put on gaskets although I have never truly found the proper use for it outside of exhaust gaskets) it doesn't like filling gaps which the intake ends are a gap, the ONLY types you should even consider using is black or blue. OEM requires that black be used when I worked at a dealership, this is something that the company will have to stand behind if it leaks again so that should tell you something about what they have found works.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 470
Likes: 0
Just my personal opinion but if your going to use black rtv I wouldn't use the cork gaskets, just be sure to apply a generous amount of rtv so it will fill the space and wait for it to tack up before you put the intake on. Another suggestion, when I did mine we had trouble getting the rtv to "stick" to the block, we heated the block with a torch to condense any oil out of the metal and once we did that no more problem. It was amazing to see the oil come straight out of the block like that.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 18,423
Likes: 9
From: iowa
agreed no gasket, BUT one thing I would also do is set the intake down on the block with the intake gaskets in place and measure approx distance between block and intake, then make sure the bead you put on is that thick (doesn't really ahve to be thicker because as you torque it down it will pull down lower then just sitting there)
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2006
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agreed no gasket, BUT one thing I would also do is set the intake down on the block with the intake gaskets in place and measure approx distance between block and intake, then make sure the bead you put on is that thick (doesn't really ahve to be thicker because as you torque it down it will pull down lower then just sitting there)
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 530
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From: in country near Boone, IA
I was also told to use the Black RTV silicone only and throw away the little front and rear gasket pieces. The engine builder just said lay a nice big bead onlong the front and rear of the block and make sure it gets down in the corner where the block and head meet each other (at least as thick as the gap your trying to seal), set the intake on and torque to spec. I haven't fired my engine up yet, but praying to _______ that no leaks appear! lol