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I haven't done this job before. :/
(only motorcycles and air-cooled VWs)
Let's say a guy -actually liked making gaskets- tho...
...and could make his own gaskets out of neoprene...
What would you guys think then?
Still no intake gaskets on an FT/FE?
Could make them extra wide to have some strength "sideways"
and then later, cut the extra off after the RTV's dried good.
And OJ's "Permatex Right Stuff" sounds interesting too. :)
Well when I did the intake on a chevy 350 I used the front/rear rubber gaskets that came with the kit, they had ***** to fit corresponding notches in the block, and were walled on the ends to help prevent leaks, some how the intake actually ripped and pushed the gaskets out the front and rear, two different times. No blow by on the pistons to create internal block pressure and correct working pcv valve and breathers, however the silicone never leaked a drop.
I'm sure other people have had different experiences and different opinions, I just know I don't want take off and put on that FE intake any more times than necessary haha
I still wouldn't use gaskets, the reason why?
{snipped cool post}
I go out of my way not to use gaskets. :)
I feel as tho they made Ultra Black with me in mind. ;)
But I'm not opposed to making a set of front and rear intake gaskets
for my FE (when the time comes) if "those that know" thinks it'd be a
good idea. :)
I made a .015" brass shim-plate/gasket for my T18's "bearing retainer"
(throwout bearing support). The paper gasket let the bolts bend the
"ears" down slightly on the original so I bought a new one and made
a shim for it. It was cool, the original was aluminum and the new one
is iron. :)
I did an engine swap twice on my truck and this is what I've learned. The first engine rebuild I used the the cork gaskets from a kit that I glued to the block. I noticed a small leak from the rear right corner of the intake. I was told that the cork gaskets can dry and crack creating leaks, but I didn't have that problem. Those cork gaskets can be tricky to seal-up in the corners even with a little gasket maker.
The second rebuild I replaced the cork gaskets with Permatex Right Stuff. Just applied plenty of sealant on the front and back and the corners. Then waited for it to tack up a bit and installed the intake and torqued to spec. Them trimmed away any squeeze out gasket maker. Be sure to use plenty, but remember...what squeezes out on the outside can also squeeze out on the inside. I used Right stuff on the oil pan too and must say...not one leak has been detected anywhere on the engine to this day. It comes in an arisol can like cheeze whiz...not that I use cheese whiz...lol. Remember these old blocks didn't have the best machining back in the day, so it's up to us to get creative.
Good luck with the fix
I called a few engine rebuild places and both said that they will use nothing but WRIGHT STUFF because it turns more into a rubber. They have worked on alot of 390 motors. $10.00 a can at advance. I'll let you know the outcome.
I called a few engine rebuild places and both said that they will use nothing
but WRIGHT STUFF because it turns more into a rubber. They have worked on
alot of 390 motors. $10.00 a can at advance. I'll let you know the outcome.
Turns out OJ's smarter and can spell better than we thought. LOL :)
Just finished up the truck intake replacement last night. Fired it up and runs like a dream. Drove it to work this morning only to find a small leak coming fromt he bottom on the intake on the front of the head. Does this mean I have to pull it off again? I sealed the crap out of it and it still leaks. I never use the gaskets for the front and never have. I used copper sealant. Could I seal the front without pulling it off? If i have to pull it off, do I have to replace the intake gaskets that are 2 hours old? Great monday for me already.
Well their is another product called right stuff. This black sealant is awesome to use but a little expensive. It doesn't freeze up hardly. i use this stuff all the time. This stuff will seal when silicone won't. You have to clean off surface just like the other stuff but once clean its good to go. If you touch it your gonna get it everywhere. You can buy this stuff at a local parts store like napa or other parts house. Just good to know info. Talk to you later.
Bought some tonight and resealed the intake. Works great. Very good stuff and it was pricy. Better than to redo it I guess. I gooped the crap out of it and then put extra on the outside with my finger rubbing it across the intake and block. No way it's going to leak now. Went on nice and came out of the can nice too. Hopefully it will have me sold for future use. I found the leak in the back. My valve covers were creamy white in the inside from all the water. Good thing it only ran for about 20 miles. I'll dump the oil again tomorrow. man, this turned out to be one expensive oil change!
I think the real issue with this one was the RTV kicked fully before torquing. The RTV probably would have been fine if you waited 20 min and gave things a quick leverage twist with a screw driver or just to get a snap and bite from the RTV surfaces. Then torqued it down and left it over night.
I have to ask, what did Ford do from the factory and how many of them leaked? In my first post I thought the gentleman was working on an FE and I apoligize. I do not remember what the 351 gaskets looked like but, hearing that many of you are not using the cork gaskets is surprising. I just put together a 390 and used the gaskets in the kit. I did not use RTV because of it being so slippery. I made darn sure the gaskets stayed in place after the intake was set into place. Hopefully mine will not leak. If it does, I guess I will have to go to the Cheeze Wiz stuff.
I have to ask, what did Ford do from the factory and how many of them leaked? In my first post I thought the gentleman was working on an FE and I apoligize. I do not remember what the 351 gaskets looked like but, hearing that many of you are not using the cork gaskets is surprising. I just put together a 390 and used the gaskets in the kit. I did not use RTV because of it being so slippery. I made darn sure the gaskets stayed in place after the intake was set into place. Hopefully mine will not leak. If it does, I guess I will have to go to the Cheeze Wiz stuff.
Not sure who's working on a 351, but mine is a 390FE. Why did you think different?
I think the real issue with this one was the RTV kicked fully before torquing. The RTV probably would have been fine if you waited 20 min and gave things a quick leverage twist with a screw driver or just to get a snap and bite from the RTV surfaces. Then torqued it down and left it over night.
I am almost certain this is why. I tore it a part last night, cleaned it, used the "right stuff" can recommended by the engine shop. Then I torqued to spec. After that I added more on the outside. No way it will leak now. I will be so pissed if it does.
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