OK pardon my ignorance, but until you have done this there are some rules to live by. This afternoon I had me-self convinced that somehow by the grace of GOD we'd be the first SOB's to ever get a set of FE manifolds off without a snafu!! So much for that theory! Rather than pull the motor, "UNLESS THATS TRUELY EASIER" I have seen many a picture of folks who, to work on an engine removal/install have removed the front (clip?) Fender/inner fender/grill/etc.. There are several reasons I'd like to go this route. Foremost it just doesn't seem that pulling the engine is required to repair the exhaust ears that now have a snapped bolt nor the one that snapped at the doughnut stud SOB!! Fairly sure it was snapped prior, loose as **** to start with then plOp!!
Secondly is that I have a long term plan for this rig that includes a RACE only config, and I'd like to fab up a set of custom frame to the side of the block mounts (std FE 65 later) to go along with the OEM 292ci timing cover mount and rear tranny to frame mounts. Making a 5 point system to harness **** load more HP/TRQ of an FE.

So back to the question at hand, what is the procedure for removing the front clip in steps ? A-Z so to speak..

TIA

 

Hello. I think the easiest way to take the front clip off is this. I havent done it this way but i think it will work.
1 take the front bumper off
2 un hook the radiator hoses
3 unbolt the radiator support from the frame.
4 unbolt the fender front brace ( i think it is atatched the the frame)
5 unbolt the fender liner rubber strap that mount to the cab mount
6 remove any wireing and hoses that is attatched to the inner fenders including remove the battery
7 remove the fender bolts from the cab, 1 on the rocker and one up from the inside of the cab
8 get a few buddies to grab a side and lift off.

I hope i coverd everything. If not i am sure someone will help fill in the things i missed. Good luck, Justin

 

Damn I hope your right as that sounds a mess load easier than a pull.

 

There is no reason to use the front and bell housing mounts when installing a FE. IF you want strong just install a front motor plate.

To mount a FE to the bell mounts you need a 65 66 F350 up bell housing. BIG HEAVY and not racing friendly.

Garbz

 

Well it's a 64 with and fact installed 352 to replace the 292 according to the PO. so it's setup as you might figure. I like the extra room down there but wonder about things under serious torque. Got all but the flexable straps undone tonight. She is loose to say the least. Man what a bunch O ****!! 40yrs of use makes for a hell of a time getting some of that stuff unhooked!!

 

Since I just did that here goes:

Remove bumper
Remove upper grille
Remove main grille
Remove lower gravel pan
Many broken u-nuts!!!
Remove both fenders
Drain radiator
Remove radiator
Remove radiator support
Remove inner aprons
and there you are...

oh and maybe the hood if so inclined...

 

From what it looks like the above suggestion will remove it all as one piece, which was exactly what I wanted. Slip it out do the work replace it, "WITH ANTISIEZE"/.. and walla!!

I'm down to an option "kinda" of either the vertical fender bolts 4 total - 2 on each side or the 2 horizontal bolts 1 on each side. Now it's a biatch to open the cab doors with everything loose. I'm just wondering are the 2 horz bolts screwed into affixed nuts or are they floating like the fender marriage scenario. I dont want to drop a nut into never never land...

 

the two upper bolt sandwitching the apron are standard 5/16 24 or 5/16 18 bolt and nut

The one in the cowl is a 5/16 24 or 5 1/6 18 threaded into a nut insert.

A little heat on the cowl bolt and a twist in and then out may break it loose. Those look really rusted... Watch out for that black widow up in there...LOL

Garbz

 

Man you make it tuff, speaking from experience, removing the bumper and draining the radiator is about all that I can agree with here. The hood doesn't have to be removed, but may make work easier if not bumping your head is a concern.

You separate the clip at the cab, and off the chassis under the radiator support. Leave the children to play, it only takes one other person to lift the clip. It's not heavy just bulky. IMHO

Bobby you can count on breaking manifold bolts so pulling might be the best thing.

I thought you were going to drive this truck while you worked on the other project.


John

 

I do but it's going to need some minor attention first. Exh leaks, brakes, tires, mild electrical(turn signals), etc..

just one strap and the electrical to disconnect and she is off.. Many thanks!! Oh and yeah the widder is up in there too.. hUUUge ****!! be hitting that with the hose come daylight!

 

Hmm this must be what your referring to LOL!!!


Crap that is a road bump aint it?!!! Time for MODIFICATIONS!!!

 

I actually did it that way since I was going to remove the radiator support to restore and then got carried away taking everything off. Now everything has been stripped, old filler replaced where needed and all the pieces painted separately to original color. Besides since I have no help then I wouldn't be able to lift it on my own. It did make it easier to replace the intake manifold by suspending it from a 6 foot 2x4 with me on one side and my wife on the other side and she was 5 months pregnant... a real trooper!

 

From 1965 on the front clips seem a whole lot easier to remove than on older ones..but I guess it's all in what you're familiar with....

TH1567
O' Dad, I don't wanna go wit you and sis! (he was real mad when we came back with a chocolate dipped cone from the tasty freeze)