Engine block identification.
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Freshman User
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From: Cincinnati Ohio
pcmenten the guy I bought the truck from rebuilt the engine soon after he bought the truck (him and his buddy) and said it has less the 2500 miles on it, all though it has set for 15 years in a (attached) garage.
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Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Boise, Idaho
Rebuilt? That could be a pretty good deal. Before you try to start it, you might want to drain the fuel and oil, refill the oil with something like Mobil oil, add some STP Oil Treatment for 4 cylinder engines (red bottle, contains ZDDP) and change the oil filter. I'd use a Motorcraft filter from Walmart, not a Fram. Fram's quality has been inconsistent, sometimes very bad.
Charge the battery, pull the spark plugs and crank the engine until you see the oil pressure light go out. You're trying to pre-lube the engine before you start it. Clean the plugs, reinstall them, fill the tank with fresh gas, and pray. Then try starting it up. I use Autolite extended tip plugs, not Champion.
It might take a minute for the fuel system to get primed. You can try spraying starting fluid in the carb to help get it going.
Don't leave out the STP or some other source of ZDDP or your cam will go flat. STP is the simplest thing to do and simple is reliable. Add it with every oil change.
There. More information than you needed. Good luck.
Charge the battery, pull the spark plugs and crank the engine until you see the oil pressure light go out. You're trying to pre-lube the engine before you start it. Clean the plugs, reinstall them, fill the tank with fresh gas, and pray. Then try starting it up. I use Autolite extended tip plugs, not Champion.
It might take a minute for the fuel system to get primed. You can try spraying starting fluid in the carb to help get it going.
Don't leave out the STP or some other source of ZDDP or your cam will go flat. STP is the simplest thing to do and simple is reliable. Add it with every oil change.
There. More information than you needed. Good luck.
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From: Cincinnati Ohio
Thanks for the advice Pcmenten, I plan on doing just those steps. Pulled the plugs all ready and sprayed WD into each cylinder has been setting with WD for 2 days now. I never heard of the ZDDP though. I was going to change oil leave it a quart low and add a quart of transmission fluid to it, then crank on it a while (over a period of a week) or longer if need be, until everything sounds nice and free in the block. Then change oil again (with trans fluid in it again) before putting the plugs back in (Autolite or AC delco) as I hate champion plugs. Then try to fire it up. Whats you thoughts?
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From: Boise, Idaho
It sounds like you're on a good plan. ATF is has a lot of detergents in it and it should help clean the crankcase. WD40 is good, but I usually use PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench penetrating fluid. I get better results with those.
In re: the ZDDP, people are learning that lesson the hard way. I'm just hoping to spare you the grief of having to do the engine work from a cam going bad.
STP 4 cyl Oil Treatment. That's your friend.
In re: the ZDDP, people are learning that lesson the hard way. I'm just hoping to spare you the grief of having to do the engine work from a cam going bad.
STP 4 cyl Oil Treatment. That's your friend.
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From: Cincinnati Ohio
Pcmenten Thanks for the advice I'll put some liquid wrench in there tomorrow since I have it as well. Explain the ZDDP as I still don't get it please. Also I talked to the guy I bought the truck from today and he said there was a 3/4 cam in there. Turns out his buddy that helped him rebuild the engine was a hot rod junkie, and the guy I bought it from followed his buddy's lead and he can't remember if the block was a 289 or 302 as his buddy did the this will fit and we will make some extra horse power with the cam and the holly and the milled heads. So this is going to be very interesting on my part. When I do get to the engine, as I'm going to do all the body work and wiring first, but I will free it up and do a compression test on it soon. The transmission fluid my dad told me will help the lifters as well if there not solid lifters which I don't think these are (I will see though) Thanks for your help and everyone else on this site. This is a great place!
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They all look the same: 221/260/289/302/351W.
Look for the block casting number near the starter, and the date code for the block in the same location.
The car engines take 5 quarts of oil with a filter change.
Look for the block casting number near the starter, and the date code for the block in the same location.
The car engines take 5 quarts of oil with a filter change.
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You can get help locally, as Green Sales Co., the largest Ford obsolete parts store on the planet, is located in Cincinnati: 513-731-3304 (greensalescompany.com).
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From: La Verne, California
The block in the picture under discussion is more than likely one of the SBF v8's, which is what the thread is attempting to discern.
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