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I was out checking the fluids in the truck today and when I pulled the trans dipstick, the top half of the tube came with it. It appears to have broken right near the bracket that is secured to the block.
Is it possible to remove the bolt holding that bracket without removing the downpipe(4") or should I just get out the sawsall and cut the downpipe? I don't believe it will be possible to get my arm in there any other way.
I also don't believe the downpipe is removable without cutting, unless I remove the pipe after the downpipe as well, and everyone knows how well that works after the clamps have been tightened I'm going to stop at a stealership tomorrow after work to see if they have one in stock, which I doubt.
If I end up cutting the downpipe, where can I find a 4" band clamp to put it back together? I've checked a couple local auto parts stores with no luck.
I know what you mean by not having room to get to that bolt with downpipe in the way. I need to get to it as well. Since upgrading my early 99 to a late model turbo and pedestal the downpipe is now in contact with the tranny dipstick tube. I have considered supporting the tranny and removing the cross member and unhooking the exhaust from the hangers, disconnecting the downpipe and hopefully drop it down far enough to get to the bolt.
Rock Auto has 4" band clamps. They are Walker brand. Anywhere you might find Walker products may also have these band clamps.
I reached all of my upper bellhousing bolts, during trans removal, from underneath with two long 1/2" drive extensions, put together, and a 3/4" swivel socket. Downpipe was never removed.
I reached all of my upper bellhousing bolts, during trans removal, from underneath with two long 1/2" drive extensions, put together, and a 3/4" swivel socket. Downpipe was never removed.
Roland,
Good tip and thanks, but if I get the bolt out I still won't have room to bend the bracket with the downpipe in the way. And if I was able to bend the bracket without removing the downpipe it would be hell to get the bolt back in. Right now I have a 1200° spark plug wire insulation sleeve slipped over the tube where the downpipe makes contact. It may just stay that way for awhile.
when i put the banks power elbow on the back of my turbo my dipstick would not go back in its original possy either, so i cut the mount off the dipstick that bolts to the head taped the dipstick tube in the centre and bottom (where it pulls apart)with some aluminium tape, bent it a bit and now i have it double zip tied to a plastic tag that hangs down from just under the wiring loom cover at the back of the engine bay.doing it like this has kept the dipstick about 1"1/2 from the exhaust which was about the same as it was stock...
if you have a look in the pick you might just be able to make out the tag im talking about. hope this helps a bit.
cheers
josh
when i put the banks power elbow on the back of my turbo my dipstick would not go back in its original possy either, so i cut the mount off the dipstick that bolts to the head taped the dipstick tube in the centre and bottom (where it pulls apart)with some aluminium tape, bent it a bit and now i have it double zip tied to a plastic tag that hangs down from just under the wiring loom cover at the back of the engine bay.doing it like this has kept the dipstick about 1"1/2 from the exhaust which was about the same as it was stock...
if you have a look in the pick you might just be able to make out the tag im talking about. hope this helps a bit.
cheers
josh
You know it is so easy to get to with a 3/4 socket, a wobbly, and about 3-4' of extensions, just go right up alongside the transmission, and guide the socket on the head. It is so much easier than finagleing the shorter ratchet up in there...
Got it done today. I cut the exhaust where the downpipe enters the 4" to 5" piece, removed the v band clamp at the turbo (which was a lot easier this time than the first time), dropped the downpipe and had the bolt out shortly there after. I used an air ratchet and no extension.
I did modify the bracket slightly to help the tube to clear the downpipe up near the top. With the downpipe out of the way, you can bend the bracket and test fit as many times as needed to get everything fitting right.
I almost screwed up big time, but luckily caught my mistake before something was permanently damaged. The dipstick tube is 2 pieces. When I purchased the new tube, I got only the upper part. For some reason, I thought the short 6" piece had to come out of the transmission and the piece I got replaced it as well. A it turns out, I was wrong. I took the old upper piece and compared it to the new one and the two were identical. This was AFTER I had a vise grip on the short lower piece and wrenched it around a little trying to remove it from the transmission
I inspected the piece that remains in the trans and thankfully it wasn't damaged. Lesson learned.
Originally Posted by strokin_it7.3
You know it is so easy to get to with a 3/4 socket, a wobbly, and about 3-4' of extensions, just go right up alongside the transmission, and guide the socket on the head. It is so much easier than finagleing the shorter ratchet up in there...
Kris, I looked into doing it that way, but with wanting to bend the bracket to get more downpipe clearance, I found it just as easy to cut and remove the downpipe. There is very little room in there with the downpipe, transmission and heat shield for the exhaust.
Thanks guys. I was aware of the two piece tube, for some reason I was thinking that the replacement was one piece to replace the two
Don't know what I was thinking
Thanks guys. I was aware of the two piece tube, for some reason I was thinking that the replacement was one piece to replace the two
Don't know what I was thinking
Originally Posted by PaysonPSD
I know what you mean. Half the time I don't know what I was thinking the other half of the time.
Sometimes our "train of thought" derails. It happens to me sometimes. All part of getting older.
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