Egr - Help!
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Freshman User
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I have a 1967 Oldsmobile that would never be a daily driver and antique tags would be very suitable...if I can still get them when the car is ready. I saw antique tags on a chevette the other day - geeze. 250 miles a year is the limit, you can't haul ANYTHING on an antique truck, and I agree Franklin2 and Bashby. Using antique tags just to modify or to get out of fixing your truck is abuse. I'm sure the Stae Police would love to see my Antique tagged F350 pulling my Antique tagged Olds followed by my wife in my Antiqued tagged F100 to the dragstrip. That'd be a hoot.
Sorry
Sorry
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
Because of people like what? You yourself have admitted to disabling your own smog equipment in previous threads! What makes you assume that I am planning to use this truck for any other purpose than to drive my sick grandmother to her doctor's appointments? Or to use it as radical, one-off custom show truck? Who made you the DMV's Proper Antique Vehicle Usage Enforcer anyway? Your tone is elitist and highly curmudgeonlike...Get off your high horse, get off the computer, take your Benefiber, and go to bed...
There are as you said legitimate reasons for having antique tags, but your response was pretty general with no mention of the rules, so that's why I jumped on it. Sorry about that.
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Virginia Beach, VA
Apology accepted...hope you will accept mine as well...
My response to the OP wasn't meant to be a middle finger to the law...I have
no idea what he plans to use his truck for...my suggestion that he look into
getting antique plates was merely an option that he might consider...and one
that I am considering as well now that our vehicles are getting to a place
where it is cost prohibitive to try to maintain them at their original factory
specs. My truck turns 25 this year and I am determined to begin restoring it
into something more meaningful and enjoyable than a beat up work
truck...this truck has provided a means of income for my family and means
alot to me personally...not trying to thumb my nose at the law, just bend
the rules a little in order to further the cause...my truck right now is 100%
street legal and factory emisssions compliant right now...and will stay that
way until the old 300 dies or I get a windfall of cash and drop a Windsor in
that beeotch and slam it to the ground on 18's and 20's...peace
My response to the OP wasn't meant to be a middle finger to the law...I have
no idea what he plans to use his truck for...my suggestion that he look into
getting antique plates was merely an option that he might consider...and one
that I am considering as well now that our vehicles are getting to a place
where it is cost prohibitive to try to maintain them at their original factory
specs. My truck turns 25 this year and I am determined to begin restoring it
into something more meaningful and enjoyable than a beat up work
truck...this truck has provided a means of income for my family and means
alot to me personally...not trying to thumb my nose at the law, just bend
the rules a little in order to further the cause...my truck right now is 100%
street legal and factory emisssions compliant right now...and will stay that
way until the old 300 dies or I get a windfall of cash and drop a Windsor in
that beeotch and slam it to the ground on 18's and 20's
...peace
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
if it's stuck (partially) open. Even if the gasket between the mani & plate were shot, I
doubt it'd leak enough into the intake to make a difference.
If it were me, I'd hook that diaphragm up to a vacuum source and make sure the thing
opens with vacuum applied & closes with it removed.
A bad idle can be caused by a lot of different things, what made you suspect the EGR?
-ct
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
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Well, if it doesn't have a vacuum source, about the only way it could cause a problem is
if it's stuck (partially) open. Even if the gasket between the mani & plate were shot, I
doubt it'd leak enough into the intake to make a difference.
If it were me, I'd hook that diaphragm up to a vacuum source and make sure the thing
opens with vacuum applied & closes with it removed.
A bad idle can be caused by a lot of different things, what made you suspect the EGR?
-ct
if it's stuck (partially) open. Even if the gasket between the mani & plate were shot, I
doubt it'd leak enough into the intake to make a difference.
If it were me, I'd hook that diaphragm up to a vacuum source and make sure the thing
opens with vacuum applied & closes with it removed.
A bad idle can be caused by a lot of different things, what made you suspect the EGR?
-ct
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,437
Likes: 4
From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
bandi, I think you are confusing the egr with the air pump system. The egr is the valve attached to the plate under the carb with one vac. line attached. If it has no hose hooked to it, the truck will run the same unless the egr valve is stuck open (rare thing but it would idle poorly if at all then run good or better off idle. The air pump is belt diven and pumps air into the 4 fittings on each exhaust manifold, through various tubes and check valves. On a truck with a catalytic converter, the theory is adding oxygen helps the converter burn off the leftovers from combustion. On the F350's in 86 and ther abouts (I know thats not a word), a catalytic converter was not required, so as best as I understand, the air pump was only there to dilute the tailpipe emissions by increasing the ppm of clean air and reducing the ppm of bad emission stuff. So by eliminating the whole air pump system you are not increasing your emissions, if you were to measure in "parts per mile" or "parts per revolution"
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2008
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bandi, I think you are confusing the egr with the air pump system. The egr is the valve attached to the plate under the carb with one vac. line attached. If it has no hose hooked to it, the truck will run the same unless the egr valve is stuck open (rare thing but it would idle poorly if at all then run good or better off idle. The air pump is belt diven and pumps air into the 4 fittings on each exhaust manifold, through various tubes and check valves. On a truck with a catalytic converter, the theory is adding oxygen helps the converter burn off the leftovers from combustion. On the F350's in 86 and ther abouts (I know thats not a word), a catalytic converter was not required, so as best as I understand, the air pump was only there to dilute the tailpipe emissions by increasing the ppm of clean air and reducing the ppm of bad emission stuff. So by eliminating the whole air pump system you are not increasing your emissions, if you were to measure in "parts per mile" or "parts per revolution"
Thanks everyone
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